SteveJ

Most likely you have a single filament bulb in a dual bulb socket somewhere. That I why I asked you to take pictures of all of the insides of the sockets and base of the bulbs.

I designed and fabricated the heat shield. It is aluminum with "Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier" (can be found on Amazon). After I installed headers, I found a lot of heat coming up between the carburetors with the stock heat shield. This heat shield dropped the temperature between the carburetors by about 100 degrees F.

So today was more frustration than success. That's how these projects can go sometimes. I determined that I do NOT like how the fuel pump supplied with the kit would be situated in the stock mounting location. I put a 280Z fuel pump on order to remedy that. I also found that I have no natural talent for installing AN fittings on braided lines. At least I have the injectors mounted in the throttle bodies, and the throttle bodies are in the car. Read the details here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/fuel-injection-patton-machine

And I have finally started, albeit slowly. I removed the domes and fuel bowls from the carburetors and installed the fuel injector adapter plates. For more details, here's a link to my blog: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/fuel-injection-patton-machine/

I'm taking the week off from work, so I started on the fuel injection conversion for the 260Z. I'm taking it slow at first. Today was just getting the carburetors fitted with the fuel injector adapter plates.

You guys are the best little brother a superpower could have.

Have some cake to celebrate!

Right back at you, Philip.

It is best to have all the grounds in place for testing electrical circuits.

I'll be on the lookout for this one, too.

On my bookshelf. I found it last week.

First, the FSM clearly identifies two ground points for this circuit. One is in the engine bay, and the other is by the taillights. They are identified at Earth Point. Let's talk about theory of operation as designed. When the turn signal switch is moved up or down, it completes the circuit for the right or left side respectively. Using a positive to negative flow, we can trace voltage from the battery, to the starter, through the black fusible link, through the shunt, through the green fusible link, through the ignition switch, through the fuse box, through the hazard switch, through the flasher relay, and to the turn signal switch. After the switch, you just have the bulbs, ground, and back to the battery. As current flows through the circuit, the bimetal strip in the flasher relay heats up (power= current x voltage). Due to the nature of the bimetal strip, the heat causes the strip to move away from the contact, and that opens the circuit. The strip quickly cools down, and it makes contact again, heating it with the current flow. So, since you said the blinking speed did not vary with the engine speed, let's break this down into the elementary factors of resistance, current, voltage, and power. The resistance is primary from the bulbs. It can be considered constant. The current that causes the bimetal strip to heat up is voltage divided by resistance. This gives us two things to check in this circuit: The voltage in the circuit: Measure voltage to ground while the turn signals are operating and see if there are voltage fluctuations. Higher voltage would, in theory, give a faster blink rate. The condition of the flasher relay: See if the hazard lights exhibit the same behavior as the turn signals. If they don't, swap the two flasher relays and see if the problem follows the flasher relay.

Is the car running? Does the rate of blinking correlate to engine speed? How old are the flasher relays? What modifications have been made to the car? Does it still have incandescent bulbs, or have they been swapped over to LEDs? This has NOTHING to do with the turn signal switch. There is no ground for the circuit at the switch. You should download the service manual from this site. The BE section has some excellent breakouts of many of the circuits, including the turn signal circuit. It helps a lot in troubleshooting.

Post photos of the inside of the sockets and the bulbs you pulled out of them. Do this for all the sockets in each taillight housing. Otherwise, all you will get here is speculation.

The electric fuel pump was a field modification designed by Nissan and installed by dealers. I don't know if Nissan ever shipped any 73s with the fuel pump already installed.

That's why I'm about to turn my SUs into throttle bodies.

I registered and commented. The comment was trapped in moderation and never saw the light of day. It was not critical, the slightest bit obscene, or anything that would go against community standards. I thought it was odd that it never left moderation, but I didn't try to pursue why they left it in purgatory.

I don't know the secret code to get a comment out of moderation there, either. On the other hand, I only tried once and figured that the moderators don't try or don't care about allowing posts outside of a select group.

That means that it is likely that the switch is not being actuated.

Put the switch back in, without wires, put the car in reverse and check for continuity across the switch contacts.

@jwtaylor I emailed Rick. This was his reply:

https://zcardepot.com/products/valve-spring-compressor-tool-l-l24-l28-l16-l18

Ignore this. It got to the wrong thread

Ignore this post.

This will easily fit in the garage, and this is the best price I've seen online. If I didn't already have a lift, I would buy this: https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2c000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html