SteveJ

Tom, As I said before, for the EARLY MC, the front reservoir is for the front brakes (disc brakes), and the rear reservoir is for the rear brakes (drum brakes). The only risk about adding DOT 3 fluid is if a previous owner used DOT 4 or DOT 5 fluid, and that is unlikely if the car was not set up for track use. There is one other possible explanation for the loss of brake fluid from the rear reservoir. It could be leaking into the brake booster. Finally, do not just go by the size of the reservoir. They can be swapped. Look on the driver's side of the MC. You should see F and R cast in the body of the MC.

Which Master Cylinder do you have? Early Later If you have the early master cylinder, the front reservoir is for the disc brakes (front), and the rear reservoir is for the drum brakes (rear). If you have the later master cylinder, the front reservoir is for the rear brakes, and the rear reservoir is for the front brakes. Note: Some early cars have been modified to use the later master cylinder due to the lack of availability of rebuild master cylinders. You'll need to look at the path of the brake lines to verify. If the reservoir is low for the rear brakes, I would inspect the wheel cylinders and brake lines for signs of leakage.

You'll have to change the connector on the 1977 voltage regulator. You will have to compare the wiring diagrams to set the pin-outs for the new connector. The proper connector can be found at http://www.vintageconnections.com

This is one of the more important things: When did it last run right, and what did you touch between then and now?

Philip, there isn't a seatbelt interlock relay in the 73 like the 74. Is the car going through an automatic to manual swap?

All of the wheel bearings have been replaced, and I had a fun drive home. According to my friend, Nissan tended to use minimal grease on the wheel bearings. Fortunately, the stock rear bearings held up well over the 45+ years of use. There is less vibration in the steering wheel, too. I helped him diagnose a couple of electrical problems in his 73 turbo-swapped car. It's great to have a Z buddy you can swap favors with.

Success! He was hitting on the back side (with an air hammer) while I was jerking on the other side (With a slide hammer). Despite the lack of lubrication, it slid out.

We will be doing a tag team on the stub axle soon.

I'm over at a friend's house. He is trying to replace the rear wheel bearings on my 260Z. The passenger side stub axle isn't cooperating. I am working on the wiring in his car and finding errors in the 73 FSM BE section. I still think I have the easier task.

They really won't look like original carburetors. The plates go in place of the domes. It would be reversible in theory. I'm not sure what happens with the fuel bowls, yet. If you want to use the Z car fuel rail, you would want to get another fuel rail because you would have to open up the orifice in the downstream side of the fuel rail to allow the proper fuel pressure. Anyway, if you are wondering if he has plates for the 4 screw carburetors, you could always email him to ask.

I think it was longer ago than that. Life gets in the way if you let it.

I put it off until the first week of July. I'm off the whole week, so I figured I could focus on it.

I would lean toward removing the interior panels and looking for the break in the wire. The plastic trim panels can be removed by pushing the center pins through the rivets. Of course, it can be a challenge to find the center pins afterward. If you search around on this site, I'm sure there are useful tips on removing other panels.

And the email to Fred bounced. @bpilati - Do you have a club meeting coming up soon where you could direct Fred to this thread?

I also sent an email to Fred Buoni. I hope that at least one of them will look. However, this close to ZCON, they are all probably pretty busy.

I sent an email to Todd Wagner and Chris Karl from the ZCCA to look at this thread and maybe provide comments.

Here you go: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Where exactly are you measuring (color wire and location)? Are you taking your measurements to ground?

That's definitely his car. The Georgia plates give it away.

I know who placed the bid. He was at the ZCON in Memphis. I believe this G Nose was his car.

I think I was able to use an 11mm box end on the fronts. I could have sworn the backs were 8mm

I used this on my 260Z recently for the brakes and clutch: https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html The nice thing is that I could do the clutch with the car on the ground. I did have a little assistance from the wife. She stepped on the clutch pedal for me. Once there was pressure on the pedal, the fluid shot through. If you don't have someone to press the pedal for you, there is always this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRF5S/?coliid=I2UXJQELA4O6PF

To eliminate random guesses, please answer the following to help give us some background. 1. When did the problem start? a. Just recently b. A while back, but I finally decided to take care of it c. Before I owned the car 2. If you selected a or b in question 1, describe how the problem started a. Gradually - It would start and run sometimes b. All of the sudden - I was driving along and it just quit. It worked fine yesterday, and then it didn't run today. c. After I tried to repair/modify something - Be honest about what you touched. 3. What parts have you replaced so far and why? a. I had problems with that part in the past. b. A friend suggested it. c. I read it about replacing this part via an internet post (provide URL) d. Okay, I'm just throwing parts at the problem (Be honest, most of us have done that at some time.) 4. Why did you bypass the ballast resistor? a. I checked resistance across the terminals, and I got this reading (provide reading) b. I read it about bypassing it via an internet post (provide URL) 5. Please tell us how you hotwired the car. 6. What ignition system do you have on the car? a. It's completely stock with points. b. It has a ZX distributor. c. It has a Pertronix ignitor. d. It has a Crane (specify model). e. I have no idea. 7. Describe in detail what happens when a. You turn the key to start b. When the key goes from start to on 8. How did you arrive at the conclusion that it is an ignition problem a. I know it has fuel because... b. I know the timing is right because... c. I did the following tests on the ignition...

Did you see them on the website, or did you talk to someone to confirm they actually have them? I have noticed in the past they have products on their webpage they don't stock/don't ship.

There is a diagram on page BE-3 of the 70 factory service manual. You can download the manual from this site. Look for the link in my signature. The yellow wire should be in the bundle with the rear lighting and dome light.

1. Are you talking about the oil pressure sender? 2. Are you talking about in the engine bay harness or the dash harness?