SteveJ

If you can break away long enough, we could caravan to Nashville for 2020.

I love a good success story. Thanks for letting us know how it worked out.

On a PC, go to the top right of the screen and click on your username. Then click on Account Settings. You'll see the menu item for Signature on the left. On an Android phone, tap on the triple line toward the top right to bring up the main menu. Tap on Account to bring up the Account Menu. Then tap on Account Settings. Tap on Settings Area and you will see Signature.

No, you should not have to remove the dash to remove the hazard light switch. I haven't done that on a 72, but I don't recall in all of the 20+ years of using online Z car forums of having seen any thread where someone was talking about removing the dash to pull a hazard switch. Post a clear photo of the switch in the dash, and I may be able to tell how to remove it. When you say "replace them," do you have a used 72 hazard switch? Have you verified its functionality?

Your regional Z club: http://www.zonc.org/

If it does get to that stage, you could try https://www.zcargarage.com/. They are in San Jose. Tell Rob Fuller that Steve Judkins sent you. That way I get a kickback. ?

Yeah, that won't work. If someone else doesn't speak up, I will get back to this later. I have family in town right now. In the meantime, download the 72 FSM and 78 FSM. Compare the description of the wiper operation in the BE section of each manual.

Do you still have the wiper amplifier in the circuit?

So it is likely spliced off of the blue/red wire coming off the ignition switch before it gets to the fuse box. I'll have to test that if I can get my hands on a 72.

There is a red wire that splices into the blue/red wire coming off of the wiper fuse. Now, is that the only red wire? I'm not sure If it is the only red wire, the power for the blower motor in the 72 comes off of the wiper fuse. Would you mind verifying that for me? Pull the wiper fuse and see if the blower motor works. That could prove to be a useful tidbit of information. If that is wrong, the blower motor and radio are on the Air Con fuse, and there is a different red wire spliced into the blue wire coming off of the fuse box. Of course, if neither fuse kills the blower motor, that means there is an inline fuse hidden somewhere.

What is the color of the hot wire going to the switch?

John Morton was driving the recreated BRE 240Z again. I got to hang out with the team on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. On Saturday and Sunday, I spent time with my family at the track. Here are links to my Google Photo Albums: Wednesday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/xZnwaKkdb6aKxSFq7 Thursday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xr9SE5rH4th42CP56 Friday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/F4nihaZ5ZUw7ME1f8 Saturday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kef8DP4QmWmeBref8 Sunday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/VxgzchtwdDmRiq3X9 "...and then this kid asks me if I'm Horst Kwech" See this for reference if you don't get the joke:

Oh, and to line up the pinch welds for lifting, attach the blocks to the car with blue tape and raise the lift up to meet the blocks.

FYI, Costco is offering the QJ 5000 for $999 https://www.costco.com/.product.100460313.html?&EMID=B2C_2019_0501_May_Savings

He said, "The blocks themselves work fine, however, I am going to cut a groove in four of them to simulate the pinch weld blocks. I don't believe it is necessary to spend extra money for something that you can do yourself."

I also looked through the parts catalog to see if it might give a clue on the location. No luck there.

On the 73, the accessory relay that supplies power for the blower motor is on the passenger side kick panel. I can't say that the 72 has it in the same place.

What year wiring diagram were you looking at? Where did you find the wiring diagram? The 72 FSM wiring diagram omits the heater blower. The 73 FSM shows it.

@Mike Chris Karl responded on FB. The link on the affiliate clubs is the way to go.

I just heard back from my friend. He does have the QJ 5000. He said that the wheel clearance is tight, but if you position it toward the rear wheels, it clears fine.

Okay, I started a FB message with you and Chris. He is usually pretty good about responding, and you can find out what it takes. Of course, I could have just started out by looking at the ZCCA website. I found this: http://zcca.org/club-membership/affiliate-clubs/

I sent a text to my friend about the exact make/model he has. I know he has working on more than one Z using it. He was also thinking about bringing it out to Road Atlanta to raise a 280ZX race car that needed a replacement rear seal.

Have you tried to get the ZCCA to recognize Classic ZCar Club as a club? The clubs listed are members of the ZCCA. If you would like, I can put you in touch with Chris Karl. He's used to me bugging him about such things.

Trailer parking usually is an issue. Dang trailer queens...

An oscillating multi-tool can be a reasonable alternative for those of us on a smaller budget. I used one to cut through the exhaust pipe on my Z when I was converting over to headers. Of course, that was a corded tool. I haven't looked for a cordless version, yet.