SteveJ

It depends upon what you're trying to do. If there were only someone who lived not that far away from you who understands S30 wiring...

Try buying a genuine original splash pan...

And I think both of you have seen my garage...

Oh, you can find a copy of the wiring diagram in the first link in my signature. Just look for the electrical section. You can also find a copy of the factory service manual in the second link in my signature. Good luck.

You may need a new relay for the hazard lights. If the car is stock, you should see to relays that look the same. They are under the driver's side of the dash. They look similar to the relay in this picture: One is for the turn signals, and the other is for the hazard lights. Try swapping the two relays, and see if the hazard lights work. If it is bad, you could get a flasher relay like this one: https://www.amazon.com/DOCA-Flasher-Electronic-Compatible-Warning/dp/B07DF94B66.

Get at least a test light. Turn the key to On. Clip the wire on the test light to chassis ground. A common point is one of the bolts on the shock tower. There are three wires on the ballast resistor: white/black, black/blue, and black white. With the key in the On position, you should have voltage at the black/white wire. It has the arrow next to it in the picture Lift the cap on the black/white wire and touch the pointer of the test light to the wire. If the test light lights up, lift the cap on the white/black wire (opposite side of the resistor from the arrow) and touch the test light to that wire. If you didn't have a light on the black/white wire, you have a loose/bad connection or bad ignition switch. You might want to talk to me on the phone about tracking that down. If you have a light on the black/white but not on the white/black, you have a bad ballast resistor. You can move the black/white wire to the same terminal as the white/black, but you shouldn't run it long that way.

With a multimeter or test light it would be easier to check at the ballast resistor first.

PM sent

Do you have a multimeter or test light?

Maybe 11:27:16. That gets the hands less than .05 degrees out from 180...

I need to remember to archive that photo. Of course, I was hoping you'd see this thread and post that photo.

The distributor is WAY out of wack here. Please note in the attached photo where the vacuum advance is on my distributor (ZX distributor). You need to take a few steps back. Make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke, align the oil pump properly and re-install the distributor. Did your car always have the ZX distributor, or did you do the conversion? Was a ZX distributor mounting block used?

Mark, as someone who drives on Georgia 400 every day, I can assure you that Georgians believe those are the speed limit signs. You should see how crazy it gets on I-675.

I wish I had known you wanted to change springs & shocks. We could have done that at my place.

The images you see on this thread are merely plucked from the sphincters of random people with no affiliation to Nissan. Any resemblance to future Nissan designs is merely coincidence.

From a brief conversation I had with Tamura san at ZCON, I can tell you not to pin your hopes on a straight 6 in a future Z. He was kind enough to explain to me that there was too much flex possible in the crankshaft in a high revving application as opposed to using a V6 block. I would speculate that the 3 liter V6 with turbocharging will play a role future Z cars. It was an interesting exchange. Nissan has been very supportive of the Z. They had a significant presence at the Mitty, Monterey and ZCON. The American market conditions don't support the Z car. You hardly see any front engine/rear drive vehicles in the American new car market that aren't SUVs or trucks. How much is Nissan willing to spend on a platform that essentially a one-off? I would expect some kind of mild evolution of the 370Z platform for the new Z car with sheet metal that goes with that platform. I would not be surprised if there are people in Nissan that might favor the retro appearance, but I'm not sure if it would work on the current platform. I think the proportions would look squished.

Post photos of what you have.

Is there some way you could construct a tube-shaped tank and dip the shafts while attached in evaporust?

Make sure the hoses between the tank and fuel pump are in good shape. If there are small cracks, it may pull air in without leaking fuel out.

If you don't understand much about electrical issues and LEDs, rely on a website like Superbrightleds.com. The exterior bulbs will be 1156, 1157 and type 67 (marker lights and license plate lights). Match the color of the LEDs to the color of the lens. For interior, most will be BA9 bulbs. You may have to remove the lens from the gauges to get the LED bulbs to fit, though. I can't remember the festoon bulb size for the dome off the top of my head, and the map light will differ between the 240Z and the 260Z/280Z. Some of the interior lights in the 260Z & 280Z will be BA7 (hazard, seat belt, etc.).

I would think he was misquoted. Chris is the executive director of the ZCCA and knows 240Zs fairly well.

I know it will be in July. I don't have the postcard with me that they passed out at the closing ceremony. They should be getting their pages set up soon on the ZCON.org website, too. I believe the judged car show will be indoors.

Branson with Nashville in 2020.

By the way, if any of the cars in your collection have working air conditioning, you may want to bring that one. ZCON 2020 will probably be in the summer, and Nashville is VERY humid in the summer.

Kats, Let's face it. ANY of those would be welcome. Just think of ZCON 2020 as a continuation of the celebration starting in Japan in December 2019. There's no reason we can't celebrate the anniversary for a full year.