SteveJ

Randy Jaffe will be there with John Morton driving his BRE car. Rob Fuller and his crew from the Z Car Garage will be supporting. Glenn Chiou will be driving the FAR Z. Larry Cooper will be there, too. I don't think any are members here. If I wasn't working on ZCON, I would be there.

I don't think the people at Rockauto were trying to misrepresent the part. They just follow the compatibility charts provided by their suppliers. I looked at the information provided on the SMP and Beck-Arnley parts listed on Rock Auto. They list a parts number cross-reference that has many part numbers that line up to Nissan part numbering. I tried looking up the part number on Carpartsmanual.com, but I couldn't find it easily. I then put in the Nissan style part numbers into CourtesyParts.com. Here are the results (all of the positive hits came up with an oil pressure sender): 25070-80W00 300ZX 25070-55S00 200SX 25070-55S60 200SX 25070-N7600 No results 25070-P7100 300ZX 25250-S6000 300ZX 25250-S6001 720 25070-P8000 300ZX 25070-P8100 300ZX 25070-P9700 300ZX 25250-N7600 300ZX 25240-89908 No results So did Nissan use the same part with different numbers, or did Beck-Arnley and SMP take too many liberties in their cross-referencing? I went to the SMP catalog and searched for 1978 280Z parts. It lists a "Switch - Oil Pressure Gauge" with the same part number listed in the Rockauto catalog. For applications of this part, here is the compatibility list: Nissan 200SX (83-80) Nissan 280Z (78) Nissan 280ZX (83-79) Nissan 300ZX (84) Nissan 620 (79) Nissan 720 (85-80) Nissan 810 (81-78) Nissan Maxima (84-82) Beck-Arnley has a similar applications list in its catalog.

I'm not sure why you think it's complicated. The electric fuel pump has 3 switches. The first is the ignition switch. The second is a normally open contact on a relay. That relay coil is energized when the alternator is turning fast enough. (Note the voltage for that coil comes from the yellow wire between the alternator and voltage regulator. If you swap to an internally regulated alternator, you will remove the coil voltage from this circuit, and the fuel pump will never get voltage.) The last switch is a normally closed contact on a relay that opens up when you are cranking the engine. Diagnostics go like this: Turn the key to the ON position. Use a voltmeter or test light to verify you have voltage (to ground) on the black/white wire on Relay 1. (It's the 4 pin connector.) If this test fails, find the break in the wire. Start the car. Use a voltmeter or test light to verify you have voltage (to ground) on the green/white wire on Relay 1. If this test fails, you need to replace Relay 1. (This will require substituting a modern relay.) Use a voltmeter or test light to verify you have voltage (to ground) on the green/white wire on Relay 2. (It's the 6 pin connector.) If this test fails, find the break in the wire. Use a voltmeter or test light to verify you have voltage (to ground) on the black/white wire on Relay 2. If this test fails, you need to replace Relay 2. (This will require substituting a modern relay.)

No, I don't have those.

I bought a bunch of headlight connectors & shells a year or two ago.

They are talking about another member here who lives in Georgia. She damaged her car a little while back and has been trying to source the bumper ends. Seeing that you now have a large stock of cars/parts, they are probably thinking that you might be a source for the bumper parts for her.

So, there should be a switch near/on the brake handle with a yellow/blue wire running to it. As you lift the handle, it grounds the wire to the chassis.

http://www.pure-gas.org

So why do you want to go backwards to SUs from the fuel injection?

I probably have what he needs. I'm just trying to establish gender. ;)

What year? By the way, go into your settings and create a signature with the year of your car(s) in it. That way people have a better idea of how to help you.

Just to make sure, you're looking for the female connector, correct?

I am thinking it's for the turn signals, however, I'm not 100%. There shouldn't be a blue/white wire on that connector. The blue/white should be for the wipers. Did someone do some creative wiring in the past?

Post photos that show the wires, connectors, and relative location clearly.

That filter looks NASTY! I would agree with your suspicion that there is junk in the tank. As far as the AC goes, am I missing something here? I didn't see a compressor or AC lines in your video.

I haven't noticed any adverse handling issues during the drives up in the mountains here.

Irrelevant. That wire is before the fuse. What you're looking for is a problem between the fuse and the light bulbs.

If the fuse is blowing, it's time to look closer at the circuit than to just keep plugging fuses into the fuse box. Look at the wiring harness for splices. Make sure there isn't anything poking up under the fuse box that could short the fuse. Examine bulb sockets for corrosion and loose wires. (I had a loose wire on a socket that I found last December.) Make sure you have the proper wattage/type bulbs if you're using incandescent bulbs.

With the 3 pin, you have to run an extra ground wire. I used these in my 260Z, https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM. You can adjust the flash rate, too.

That looks like some serious heat damage.

This isn't quite direct reading, but it should work for you. https://www.amazon.com/SYNERKY-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-voltmeter-Resistance/dp/B077ZS5RR4

It looks good.

I'm not sure if the 2+2 uses the same fuel tank as the coupe. If it does, you can use a 240Z or 260Z tank. Expect to pay $300+ for a used tank. Z Car Depot and Motorsport Auto may have the interior parts. There are some other sources, but you'll need to be specific on what you're looking for.

What do you need?

You still have 4 months.