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SteveJ

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Everything posted by SteveJ

  1. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    It's an early 260Z. I suspect the door jamb plate says it was manufactured before Sept 74. You do realize you have to bring it to ZCON 2018 this October, don't you? Huntsville isn't that far from here.
  2. What about STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PS173? Supposedly, it's designed for a 1978 280Z. If I don't miss my guess, the vertical connector on the T is the one for the negative pin for your fuel pump relay. I have one in my parts stash just in case I ever want to convert to an internally regulated alternator on my 260Z.
  3. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Post some photos. Bumpers are an easy tell. The placement of components around the battery can help identify early or late, too. Also, the VIN can give a clue.
  4. Just a suggestion for replacing the stock springs. From another thread on here, I learned that the right Chevette springs can be used, though they need to be cut to height. I tried it out since the springs on my 260Z felt worn out. The ride does not feel harsh to me, and it is stiffer at all of the corners.
  5. According to the FSM, there is a white wire that should power the horn and brake light circuits. It originates from the fusible link at the battery and splits off. One branch goes to the voltage regulator, one goes to the ammeter, and the third goes to the fusebox.. There should be two white/red wires, one coming from the alternator, and the other coming from the ammeter. The other power wires for the fuse box are blue/red and black/white. Since there are 3 white wires in your photo, it's difficult for me to say with 100 percent certainty that it is for the horn and brake lights.
  6. The wire should not be getting hot. Is it getting hot on both sides of the brake switch? Was the brake circuit blowing the fuse (bottom of left side in fuse box) before you used the bypass wire? Power should be coming through the fusible link to the large gauge white wire that goes to the fuse box. It comes off the bottom fuse on the left and through the green/yellow wire to the brake switch. (The hazard light flasher also taps into that wire.) I hope this helps.
  7. The OP might have gotten that from here: http://zhome.com/History/StylingMatsuo/MatsuoZStory1.htm (Look about midway down on the page.), though I have no idea where he got the idea that the hatch had problems with leaks. Perhaps he only has seen Zs with dry rotted window glass seals. Those will leak. The price listed is quite a bit on the high side given the condition of the car that is visible in the photos.
  8. I saw your post on another forum. It's the third fuse down on the left.
  9. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Wanted
    If 7tooZ does not have the right switch, I definitely have at least one extra.
  10. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    If Charles brings her down for ZCON, I might be able to put her in as a judge for the People's Choice show.
  11. If your gauge lights are out, look at the running lights. If those are out, too, it could be the fuse, combo switch, or a connector. If the running lights work, but the gauge lights don't, look at the dimmer switch on the dash. To answer your original question, yes, they are on the same fuse. The particular fuse will depend upon the year of your Z. I suggest you add the year/model of your car in your signature so it's always in your posts.
  12. JDM cars had flash to pass (possibly in Europe, too?). The horn button grounds the horn. The issue may be that you're not looking at a FSM wiring diagram. It is shown clearly on the 72 & 73 wiring diagrams. Look for a wire labeled GB.
  13. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Exactly how mine were packaged.
  14. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Here is the updated part number: 26261-89965. It looks to be a standard type 194 bulb. I seem to remember using an LED version in my map light many years ago.
  15. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    The phrase "won't start" does not give any diagnostic value. Does the starter turn the engine? Have you checked for spark? Will the car start with starting fluid? What is the fuel pressure?
  16. Just to add to my previous post, when I arrived, there was only one other Japanese car there, an RX-7 with a V8 swap. I walked around to take photos, and when I got back to my car, there was a Skyline and a 350Z parked by my car.
  17. I took the car out to the local fairgrounds this evening where there was a small car show going on. The gentleman standing next to my car is Randy Todd. He was the third owner of my car. I think I'm owner #6. He purchased it in California in 1985 and brought it out to Georgia in 1991. The car helped him teach his two sons how to drive a stick shift.
  18. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    I've played around with three different types of LED headlights. I've never needed the anti flicker. I also have LEDs for parking lights, turn signals, and almost all of the dash lights. I had converted the headlight circuit to relays with switched positives before I ever played with the LED headlights. I know there are several threads on this board where I have advised people about using relays (and switched positive) with LED headlights.
  19. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    1. The issue with the lack of a brake light on the left side is still a turn signal switch issue. 2. The turn signals require the key to be in the ON position. 3. The headlights should not come on in the first position of the headlight switch. Only the parking lights should come on in the first position. The headlights should come on in the second position. There might be some "creative" wiring by a previous owner.
  20. Yes, you can remove the lock and handle without removing the window. I just find that it's easy to do it with removing the window. The regulator can stay in. You just have to remove the guide at the front of the window.
  21. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Here is the 78 ignition system per the FSM. Here is the 76 Ignition system per the FSM. I would say that your assumption is correct. The wiring breakdown on EE-25 of the 78 FSM also does not show a ballast resistor.
  22. If the old threads are shot, use a helicoil. Some well-respected members made that suggestion to me when I had an issue with the door striker plate. It was almost too easy of a fix, and you won't have to worry about using a larger bolt size.
  23. Don't miss out on the best pricing for ZCON 2018 registration. Early Bird pricing ends at midnight Eastern Time tonight (June 8). We're looking forward to all y'all making it out here.
  24. I'm looking forward to hosting you guys in my neck of the woods, too.
  25. SteveJ posted a post in a topic in RACING
    Here is my Friday recap on the 2018 Mitty. Be sure to look for the links to the Google Photos album at the end of the post in order to enjoy all of the photos. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2018/06/03/the-mitty-2018-friday/

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