SteveJ

McMaster Carr does carry Aluminum BSPT plugs.

Do you know how to use a multimeter? It would be good to know if you have continuity between that green/blue wire and the contact that is missing a wire.

You could search for Nissan FAST in Google. Some people may have uploaded it (possibly an older version) on some file sharing sites.

Good diagnostics. Carpartsmanual.com lists 24023-N4200 and 24023-N4201 as comparable parts. The first part number is 75-07 and before build dates, and the second part number is for build dates of 75-08 and later.

Funny, the link is good for me. Heck, I can still get to the service manuals, too. Here's the google search that I used to find the link I posted. https://www.google.com/search?q=350z+parts+manual&oq=350Z+parts+manual&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j0l2.4167j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 It was the 8th hit on that search. EDIT: I didn't realize you got the message when you tried to download something. I'm glad I grabbed the Z manuals when I did.

This is the closest I could find with a quick search: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/nissan-350z-parts.html There is also FAST: https://diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-spare-parts-catalog/

Shoot me a reminder on Friday so I can give you a more detailed breakdown on what you should do.

You nailed it. See, it's not that hard to figure things out.

Nicely done.

You are definitely missing a wire. My $0.02: The wire for the running lights came off of the contact on the switch. The PO starting hacking wires because he didn't know how to fix it properly.

When you turn on the hazard lights, the switch opens up the circuit that goes to the brake switch, and it opens up the circuit that goes to the turn signal flasher relay. If the hazard switch was affecting the brake lights, it would affect BOTH brake lights. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/

The FSM has a lot of good information in the BE section once you learn how to use it. For the wiring diagram, it's best to start at one point, such as the switch) and carefully follow the line to the other point, like the light bulb or fuse box. In reality, the wiring is broken down by the engine harness, dash harness, and body harness. The FSM shows the connections between the harnesses and what wire color should be at what point in the connector. You may have to pull the dash and examine the dash harness closely to get rid of the mistakes of the previous owner.

We were all amateurs at one time. Consider this the motivation to improve your skills.

I forgot that the 73 also had the 9 pin connector. It's time for you to develop a lot of proficiency in reading wiring diagrams and fixing wiring. Vintage Connections (http://www.vintageconnections.com) has most of the connectors you will need and good extracting tools to remove connectors from the shells.

I admit that I ran a drill through some of the holes to make them compatible with the Ford fender rivets. The change in size is very small.

It's the turn signal switch. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ You can contact @Zs-ondabrain about cleaning/repairing it. His turnaround time is a LOT faster than mine, and he's on the same side of the country as you are.

It's a 74-76 switch. The green/white wire is for the running lights. All I can say is, "Ugh! Wire nuts!" @krZing, you have a mess on your hands.

Better option: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/40103-fasteners-for-trim-panels/

If your other gauges work, you know you have voltage at the gauge. On page BE-2 of the FSM, you will find the connections between the engine harness and dash harness. Here is the tricky part. The wiring diagram on BE-5 says there are two yellow/white wires going to the engine bay. One is for the temperature gauge sender, the other is for the oil pressure sender. However, BE-2 only shows one. I believe that the yellow/white wire shown on the six connector shell is for the temperature gauge sender. You could try grounding it on the dash harness side to see if the gauge moves. Otherwise, you might need to pull the gauge and bench test it.

Try the Z Car Garage in San Jose. http://www.zcargarage.com

It sounds like your voltage is getting too low. Is it an internally or externally regulated alternator? If it is externally regulated (stock), test it per the BE section of the 260Z FSM. If car has been converted to use an internally regulated alternator, test per the BE section of the 1978 280Z FSM.

Thank you, @kats, for taking the time to post these diagrams. They are of excellent quality.

Okay, I'm tracking with you now. There should be differences between the US and JDM wiring, and I do not know if any of the differences are in the turn signal or headlight circuits. @Patconcould be pointing you in the right direction on grounding issues. When you use the turn signals and the headlights come on, are they normal brightness or dim? Can they change between high and low beam? @kats Do you have a source for the Japanese wiring diagram that you could post?

The contacts should be closed.

The brake light circuit is interrupted at the turn signal. It is after the hazard light switch. Since you said your right turn signal works, it is most likely the turn signal switch. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/