SteveJ

The electric fuel pump is essentially a helper pump. It's only running after the car has started. Have you replaced all of the soft fuel lines under the hood and going back to the tank? Old hoses crack and let in air. The symptoms would be similar to what you described. It could also be a mechanical fuel pump with a damaged diaphragm. If you have replaced the soft lines, I suggest changing the mechanical fuel pump out. There are several choices for mechanical fuel pumps at Rockauto at $35 and less with similar parts & prices at Amazon, so it's not a big expense. I can probably come up to see you in a couple of weeks to give you some suggestions about sorting things out on your car, too.

You are close. All 5 (6?) should have constant power.

Try my way first. If you jump out the ignition switch, you could have issues if you need to kill the engine quickly. You might get away with that, but it's not something I would do personally. When you are doing this test, I would expect to see some voltage drop while starting. The starter motor pulls some good current, so that can cause a drop of a volt or two, especially if the battery is older. If you lose voltage at the coil when starting (drop to near zero), that would indicate an issue with the switch. Jumper wires are a poor substitute for good testing.

You checked for voltage at the coil with the ignition switch in the ON position. Did you also test for voltage at the coil with someone holding the ignition switch in the START position? If you lose voltage then, the car won't start.

If you can't maintain a draw through the pump, consider two things You have a bad fuel line that is letting in air. You have a bad fuel pump. Also, are you sure you don't also have an electric fuel pump at the gas tank? That was fitted to a lot of 73s.

Okay, now that I'm at home, I can see you're about an hour and a half away.

Where in North Georgia? Help may not be that far away, right @Patcon?

I have used a floor jack in the past to compress the suspension enough to get the end link. In that case, the car was on jackstands, and I used the floor jack under the tire to do the trick.

To test the Ignition Switch: With the key in the ON position, use a test light. Clip it to a good ground, such as one of the bolts on the strut tower and touch the other end of the test light to the positive terminal of the coil, where the black/white wire lands. It should light up. Repeat the test but have someone manipulate the switch and try to start the car while you hold the test light in place. The test light should still light up. The good thing is that if the switch is bad, you can replace the back of it where the contacts reside. Rockauto has the part. You will probably need to remove the switch from the car to replace it. That can be a little challenging.

In looking for the answer about a "child" registration, in the past, the registration website called out that the child registration was for 12 and under. I will ask to have that clarified.

I sent a message to the organizing group about track day and autocross with respect to age. When you say "love to make laps", are you referring to one of those events? By the way, in addition to the karting event at Lanier Raceplex, I was thinking about seeing if a group wanted to go to K1 Speed on Wednesday night for those not going to the brewery night. Aside from brewery night and the HPDE track day, I don't really see anything where Cody couldn't attend. Edit: To clarify, I don't know if Cody could drive in the HPDE, but he could certainly hang out at the track. That's what I plan on doing if I can.

No drawbacks to having Shelley as your guest that I'm aware of. What events does Cody want to participate in? Brewery Night? If he wants to do karting at Lanier Raceplex, you or Shelley must sign his life away. (See the waiver forms at this link: http://lanierraceplex.com/about/) Other than Brewery Night, Cody should be able to go to the events. Were you thinking of him doing Autocross? I'm assuming he's not going to try to track the 510 wagon. It's free to observe/hang out at track day and autocross. If there are specific event questions, let me know.

I just wanted to make sure you guys know that the pricing on the registration site is for early registration. You need to register by March 15 to take advantage of those prices.

I think from the fuel rail to the carburetors may be 1/4" or 6 mm. I would think the fuel line between the hard lines and fuel pumps would be 8 mm since 5/16" fits nicely. I would think 10 mm (3/8") would be too loose. That is only my opinion since I didn't look it up in the FSM.

Correct. There are separate relays for the hazard lights and turn signals. This may help you understand the circuits bettter: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

That is flasher relay for turn signals or hazard lights.

So in doing a Google search of Shelby Daytona, I came across this article that quoted Pete Brock and John Morton: http://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsports/a26376/coupe-de-grace-shelby-daytona-coupe-story/

Homologation rules have been around in motorsports for a LONG time. Some of them are strange, too. NASCAR allowed the Boss 429 production numbers count toward the homologation requirement for Ford to use the 429 in Torinos in what was then called Grand National (now Cup) racing series. The original GTO (not Pontiac) stood for Grand Turismo Omolagato. (http://www.dictionary.com/browse/gran-turismo-omologato) It is interesting to see a Cheetah in person. There aren't a lot of front mid-engine cars around. I have some photos of them during my trips to the Mitty in 2015, 2016, and 2017. You can find them at http://stevescartography.wordpress.com. Just make sure you click on the links to get to the full photo sets. Here are a couple from last year: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFY653hOKSQEAKaw2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/D12HZmHyoa31jtYU2

I've seen a couple of Cheetahs in the wild. That's why you should venture over here for the Mitty. You don't know what cars will be on the track or parked in the infield. Nissan is the featured marque this year, too, so there will be a lot of Zs and 510s. There's even a regular at the Mitty who races a 200SX.

No problem. I welcome your input.

Don't disconnect the alternator with the engine running. You need to electrically isolate the alternator from the battery to see if it stops the drain. Heck, you would have to disconnect the alternator if were replacing it anyway. Keep in mind that running the battery down frequently can affect its ability to be charged and to hold charge. (Look up battery sulfation.)

If the voltage regulator is shot, test by unplugging the alternator from the electrical system. If the battery doesn't fall flat, you found the culprit. If the battery still goes down, get a load test on the battery. From the high voltage at the battery, I would suspect the voltage regulator, too. Are there any modifications (think alarm system, aftermarket electric door locks, high power stereo) or failed switches/relays that would make you think you have a drain on the battery?

Can you see what brand/model the alarm is? There might be some wiring diagrams for it available online. That could help if you have any more issues.

Sometimes those aftermarket alarms really play hell with the electrical system. Be sure to use the factory wiring diagram to diagnose/restore the wiring. That will reduce your headaches in the future.

Yes the relay could go bad in several ways. However, none would produce the symptoms that I have seen you describe.