SteveJ

I forgot to mention that it will be sporting some new tires, too.

It looks like I'll be parking my car at the BF Goodrich tent in Vendor Village.

Randy Jaffe also gave us an update at the GZC meeting on Thursday. The Amelia Island winning GTP car will be at the Mitty along with some other Heritage Collection cars. There will be a Nissan/Datsun touring lap session among other things. We are going to have a special weekend.

More news from GRM on Mitty events: Adam Carolla is bringing his Bob Sharp 610 to race at the Mitty along with BRE Roadster to display. We are having the Classic Motorsports Saturday night party in our tent starting with John Morton autograph session at 6:30 pm and free beer from 7:00 to 9:00 p.m. We will also be showing some old Nissan/Datsun race footage Racing Against All Odds along with the Paul Newman documentary with Adam Carolla and John Morton doing some commentary.

For people coming to the Mitty, here's the layout for the car corrals.

I suppose I have to since I was foolish enough to volunteer for the organizing committee.

ZNationals will be part of ZCON this year. Instead of two days, there will be 5 days of events. http://www.zcon.org

Isocyanates are very common for coating military aircraft. @Namerowis correct about having either a powered air purifying respirator or some other supplied air respirator, and you have to make sure the air is being drawn from an area where the paint vapors will not contaminate. I became quite familiar with this from trying to protect people's health in the Air Force. A couple of years back I was talking with a fellow club member, and I found out that he was in the Air Force and had been responsible for painting aircraft. He said how they didn't bother with the proper protection because it took too long. He also happened to mention that he became sensitized to isocyanates, so he can't be around them anymore. Unfortunately it seems like a lot of material safety data sheets are written more to satisfy lawyers than to advise users. On the other hand, chemicals that cause respirator sensitization (and anaphylatic shock) will always cause me to be cautious.

I think this would appeal to both you and the Captain. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flexible-led-strip-lights/led-strip-lights-12v-led-tape-light-with-lc2-connector-114-lumens-per-ft/1464/#/tab/Photos&Videos. This seems to be not as bright.

She'd be too late. Wendy would take me out for buying it well before Janet would have a chance.

Seen on FB and found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Art-Carburetor-Advanced-Pepper/dp/B0091OI1MK

That video reminds me some of when I would see Eiji testing his car on Prince William Parkway on the weekends.

SWMBO limits me to 2 cars. Of course, that means the 3rd bay on the garage is filled with tools and car parts.

If it is a CL scam, at least the person isn't posting the same image on a bunch of CL sites. The Google image search couldn't find it anywhere else.

Well my brother said that if he tried to take it on as a project, it would lead to his early demise at the hands of his wife.

I texted the link to my brother and nephew. They are coming out for The Mitty next month. It would be a hoot if they could bring a Z. My brother lives about 7 miles from the seller.

This will take some thinking and pointing. Maybe if I can remember to look this weekend...

If the car started its life as an automatic (or is still currently an automatic), it would have the circuitry for an inhibitor switch.

First, what is the build date on the car? It should be on the plate on the driver's door jamb. Next, how long was it starting fine before it had issues? Have you or someone else worked on anything before the issue started? How old is the battery? What is the voltage of the battery when the car is sitting, and what is the voltage at the battery when trying to start the car with the key? @Mike, could you move this to the electrical section when you have a chance?

I hope so. The door was latching properly when I stopped for the evening. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it stays that way.

And the winner is... Heli-coil! I practiced with a piece of 1/4" steel plate. It held well. I used one of the good captive nuts and striker plate to center the bad one in the hole. I drilled out the hole with a 1/4" bit, tapped it carefully, and ran the M6 Heli-coil in. I ended up having to change out the door lock and striker plate, but I did finally get a good latch. Thank you, all, for posting solutions and opinions. It helped guide my research and come up with a workable solution.

I did it on my 73, as well. It's pretty much as you described.

Been there, done that. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/installing-the-front-bumper/ Rear: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/06/29/rear-bumper-install-73-240z/ Brackets: https://zcardepot.com/front-bumper-bracket-stainless-steel-240z-1970-73.html Bring the car and bumper over, and we can knock it out.

In doing further research, I'm glad I have decided to play with different ideas before implementing one. I was wondering about the minimum depth of material for using a helicoil, as @grannyknot has warned. I found this link: http://www.noblefix.com/helicoil/HeliCoil-Tapping-Chart.html. It expresses a depth of "H" that can be looked up in the chart on the page. It appears as though the minimum depth needed is 7mm. If that's the case, there could be an issue with using a helicoil since I know the material thickness is less than 7mm. Just in case, I did just order some 6mm deep M6 inserts. I'm going to end up knowing more about helicoils than I ever wanted to.

Well, I figured I would try @Diseazd's suggestion and reached out to a machine shop. So far, they haven't gotten back with me. Plan B (per @Zup) - I ordered a heli-coil kit and will test on some M6 nuts to see if I like my competence. (I have also been watching Youtube videos to get details I might otherwise miss.) Plan C - I will practice drilling out and re-tapping M6 nuts with an M7 tap.