SteveJ

I have used a floor jack in the past to compress the suspension enough to get the end link. In that case, the car was on jackstands, and I used the floor jack under the tire to do the trick.

To test the Ignition Switch: With the key in the ON position, use a test light. Clip it to a good ground, such as one of the bolts on the strut tower and touch the other end of the test light to the positive terminal of the coil, where the black/white wire lands. It should light up. Repeat the test but have someone manipulate the switch and try to start the car while you hold the test light in place. The test light should still light up. The good thing is that if the switch is bad, you can replace the back of it where the contacts reside. Rockauto has the part. You will probably need to remove the switch from the car to replace it. That can be a little challenging.

In looking for the answer about a "child" registration, in the past, the registration website called out that the child registration was for 12 and under. I will ask to have that clarified.

I sent a message to the organizing group about track day and autocross with respect to age. When you say "love to make laps", are you referring to one of those events? By the way, in addition to the karting event at Lanier Raceplex, I was thinking about seeing if a group wanted to go to K1 Speed on Wednesday night for those not going to the brewery night. Aside from brewery night and the HPDE track day, I don't really see anything where Cody couldn't attend. Edit: To clarify, I don't know if Cody could drive in the HPDE, but he could certainly hang out at the track. That's what I plan on doing if I can.

No drawbacks to having Shelley as your guest that I'm aware of. What events does Cody want to participate in? Brewery Night? If he wants to do karting at Lanier Raceplex, you or Shelley must sign his life away. (See the waiver forms at this link: http://lanierraceplex.com/about/) Other than Brewery Night, Cody should be able to go to the events. Were you thinking of him doing Autocross? I'm assuming he's not going to try to track the 510 wagon. It's free to observe/hang out at track day and autocross. If there are specific event questions, let me know.

I just wanted to make sure you guys know that the pricing on the registration site is for early registration. You need to register by March 15 to take advantage of those prices.

I think from the fuel rail to the carburetors may be 1/4" or 6 mm. I would think the fuel line between the hard lines and fuel pumps would be 8 mm since 5/16" fits nicely. I would think 10 mm (3/8") would be too loose. That is only my opinion since I didn't look it up in the FSM.

Correct. There are separate relays for the hazard lights and turn signals. This may help you understand the circuits bettter: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

That is flasher relay for turn signals or hazard lights.

So in doing a Google search of Shelby Daytona, I came across this article that quoted Pete Brock and John Morton: http://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsports/a26376/coupe-de-grace-shelby-daytona-coupe-story/

Homologation rules have been around in motorsports for a LONG time. Some of them are strange, too. NASCAR allowed the Boss 429 production numbers count toward the homologation requirement for Ford to use the 429 in Torinos in what was then called Grand National (now Cup) racing series. The original GTO (not Pontiac) stood for Grand Turismo Omolagato. (http://www.dictionary.com/browse/gran-turismo-omologato) It is interesting to see a Cheetah in person. There aren't a lot of front mid-engine cars around. I have some photos of them during my trips to the Mitty in 2015, 2016, and 2017. You can find them at http://stevescartography.wordpress.com. Just make sure you click on the links to get to the full photo sets. Here are a couple from last year: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFY653hOKSQEAKaw2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/D12HZmHyoa31jtYU2

I've seen a couple of Cheetahs in the wild. That's why you should venture over here for the Mitty. You don't know what cars will be on the track or parked in the infield. Nissan is the featured marque this year, too, so there will be a lot of Zs and 510s. There's even a regular at the Mitty who races a 200SX.

No problem. I welcome your input.

Don't disconnect the alternator with the engine running. You need to electrically isolate the alternator from the battery to see if it stops the drain. Heck, you would have to disconnect the alternator if were replacing it anyway. Keep in mind that running the battery down frequently can affect its ability to be charged and to hold charge. (Look up battery sulfation.)

If the voltage regulator is shot, test by unplugging the alternator from the electrical system. If the battery doesn't fall flat, you found the culprit. If the battery still goes down, get a load test on the battery. From the high voltage at the battery, I would suspect the voltage regulator, too. Are there any modifications (think alarm system, aftermarket electric door locks, high power stereo) or failed switches/relays that would make you think you have a drain on the battery?

Can you see what brand/model the alarm is? There might be some wiring diagrams for it available online. That could help if you have any more issues.

Sometimes those aftermarket alarms really play hell with the electrical system. Be sure to use the factory wiring diagram to diagnose/restore the wiring. That will reduce your headaches in the future.

Yes the relay could go bad in several ways. However, none would produce the symptoms that I have seen you describe.

That is the accessory relay in the photos. The black wire is the ground. The blue/red energizes the coil to connect the white/red to the red/blue wire.

Z Car Depot just sent out a mailer saying they have them back in stock.

Yes, I find it irritating. From what I can see, the 260Z wiring diagram is the first to acknowledge that there is truly wiring in there. The 73 diagram just shows the blue wire going to the blower motor.

I was hoping you would provide information on the other connectors, too. FYI: There are some typical wire colors that rarely change in the 240Z. Someday I should write them up on my technical blog. Blue is usually associated with accessory power. The only blue/white wires I saw in my quick look at the wiring diagram was power for the cigarette lighter coming off of the fuse box, one of the wires going from the combo switch out to the wiper motor, and one of the wires for the antenna. I doubt the wiper motor circuit would be on a connector near the blower motor. Unfortunately, the wiring diagram does not clearly identify the colors for the wires going to the radio. I have to say that the Nissan engineers improved the layout of their drawings as the years went by. The component layout in the early S30 wiring drawings leave a lot to be desired. By the time the 260Z FSM came out, they included a lot of break-out diagrams to make diagnosing individual circuits much easier.

Trailer parking was brought up early in the committee's discussions on hotel selection. It doesn't hurt that Z1 Motorsports has used the Sonesta for the past 2 ZNationals, though there aren't nearly as many trailer queens at that show.

One of the key things to do to get help on wiring is to identify wire colors. If you can do that, it allows me to orient things better to the diagrams in the FSM.

Have you removed the clamshell cover on the steering column and looked for loose wires? You may also need to remove the center console and look around the center stack, too. By the way, go to the resources section of this site and download an electronic copy of the factory service manual if you don't already have one.