SteveJ

Just curious, is your reverse switch on the left or right side of the transmission? FYI. Looking through RockAuto, here are some of the part numbers I found: AIRTEX/WELLS 1S5283, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LS230, MOTORCRAFT SW1694

It's good to see that your tie rods held up.

Does that mean you have a line on a good one, Jason?

Jim is correct.

Good, I already pulled the trigger and bought some.

Chuck, Does that hose seem to be more flexible than the Nissan hoses? I noticed that on my front carburetor, the hose is almost kinked.

A turbo car has a turbocharger.

5/16 fuel line is what I've used to replace most of the lines in my car. I may have used 1/4 from the fuel rail to the carburetors, but it's been so long that I don't remember. Don't forget the line between the float bowl and nozzle on the carburetors. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a04/11-2541

This may help you with your understanding of relays: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/relays-simplified/

Search using http://images.google.com. Heck Alan uploaded the image to this site on Dec 23, 2003.

Yeah, what he said.

I didn't say to use starting fluid to start the car. I said to use it when the car starts to die. If it picks back up, that indicates a fuel problem. Checking the coil voltage to ground would confirm that you have enough voltage to generate a good spark. I would not suggest hot wiring the fuel pump. I would check voltage at the fuel pump or voltage to ground fuel pump relay to see if it drops when the key goes from Start to On.

So, will the car run in the ON position for a few seconds and die, or is it dying when you release the key? Have you tried having someone spray starting fluid into the AFM when the car is dying? What is the voltage from the positive terminal of the coil to GROUND when the car dies?

SteveJ - I think I'll go for a walk. Captain Obvious - You're not fooling anyone, you know.

I once made the mistake of leaving the parking brake on for a long time. Fortunately, I was able to persuade them to cooperate with a firm push on the car. You can download a 72 FSM (71 isn't available) from the link in my signature. That way you'll be armed with information specific to the 240Z brakes. I think there were wheel cylinder changes between 71 & 72, but enough of the information in the manual should be the same.

When I get better, I will seriously consider it.

I think this is the thread @grannyknot is thinking of:

Three posts and full of useful information. Welcome to the site. Thanks for the link. I've searched Amazon for fuse holders many times and don't recall seeing these puppies.

Just to clarify, @Namerow thought of the fishing line. I was thinking of taking strands of wire to compress the spring myself. Now I wonder if wire would also risk scoring. Let us know how well the rebuild functions.

I see the void Bruce refers to. Hmm, I might have to add a socket. I went a little further and put in bayonet sockets in my 260Z. Those sockets fit nicely where the old sockets did.

I'll try to remember to take some new ones of mine. I think I may have some posted in other threads, but there doesn't seem to be anything in the User CP to let me see the files I've uploaded for posts. I think one version of the software we had allowed me to do that.

You're going to have to learn how to use the multimeter to give us more information. It's difficult to diagnose with some qualitative observations.

To dim the LEDs, you'll need a PWM. Bruce (@Captain Obvious) made one for his car.

I responded to your PM. Be sure to put the year of your car in your posts. There are slight variations for each year that has the 9 pin connector there.

Since I have LEDs in all of my exterior lights, I went with LEDs on the turn signal gauges, too. One thing to remember is that with LEDs on your exterior lights, you should use an electronic flasher unit.