SteveJ

You might need to remove the green lenses for the gauges to get the BA9 bulbs to fit. I removed the lenses from the gauges in my 260Z and went with green bulbs. I get good illumination from them.

I never noticed any issues when I was running them in the 1990s, and I was driving the car in 100+ degree weather, too. Of course, I wasn't taking many trips where it would have a chance to heat soak.

She got a solid state VR from Rockauto. It was pretty cheap on close-out.

No, I hadn't even thought of that.

Keep the photos coming, Jerry.

I was going to call MSA to see if I get the same one back. If so, I'll go that way. If it's a random one, I'll go with RockAuto.

I happened to have a spare. I'm going to get my old one rebuilt.

Meh, he hijacked the thread.

The terminal designations are all the same. Nissan licensed the Bosch fuel injection system that was used in VWs, etc. The terminals for each half line up, but the wiring diagram shows the halves swapped. The EF section of the FSM shows the correct orientation with several figures starting at EF-54. It will most likely work.

What year 280Z?

There should be a screen filter on the fuel lines at the carburetors.

Don't forget about the screen filter before the carburetor.

I haven't torn apart a 280Z switch, but the concept is probably similar to the 240Z hazard switch, only with fewer wires. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/ When the switch is on, the green and green/yellow wires are connected. Green comes from the fuse box, and green/yellow goes to the turn signal flasher. With the hazard switch off, you should be able to measure 12VDC to GROUND at the green/yellow wire at the turn signal. If not, check for 12VDC to GROUND on the green wire at the hazard switch connector. If you have 12VDC there, the switch is the issue. For the hazards, check for 12VDC to GROUND on the green/blue wire at the hazard switch. If you don't have voltage, check for 12 VDC to ground on the red/white wire at the hazard light flasher. Report your results or post questions if you don't understand the instructions.

In the spring of 93, I transferred to a new assignment at Travis AFB. I was now a captain which was kind of a transition from getting by and living money-wise. So, with some extra dough ready to burn a hole in my pocket, I thought I would get a hobby car. I was hoping to find an RX-7. I tried to make an offer on one, but it was already sold. In June I found out about a 73 240Z for sale at the Lemon Lot on base. My girlfriend at the time knew the guy selling it. I took it for a test drive and decided to pull the trigger for $1800. It's a good thing I was ignorant about Z cars at the time, otherwise I might have walked away from this one. It had Weber downdraft carbs, 5 different tire brands (including a couple that were about down to the cord), and no caps on the brake reservoirs. I used it to learn about working on cars, and it held up despite the abuse. It's in my garage waiting for me to make the time to do right by it and fix all of my past mistakes. Then in January 2008, I was cruising through Craigslist ads (before all of the robbers/killers started using it) and found a listing for a 70 roadster and 74 260Z. I made plans to see both on the same weekend. The Z was closer, so I went to see it first. It was running, but I told the guy that I would come look at it and see if I could help him get it running. He had it listed for $3200, but he said he was knocking off $700 since it wasn't running. I went through all sorts of diagnostics in no particular order, and then I found the distributor cap was FUBAR. I told him I would buy the car and bring a good cap with me the next day. I showed up, installed the cap, and it fired...after I replaced the fouled spark plugs. I paid him $2500 and drove it home. Of course, the plan was to sell the 73 when I got the 74, but then I couldn't bring myself to part with the 240Z. After a few weeks, my wife said, "You're not selling the other car, are you?" I replied, "Nope." She put up with that but then established a two-toy rule for cars.

I'm old. I don't remember the links here.

Something like this in the proper diameter might work: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-20442/overview/

That is the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV). It should go to your intake. Download a copy of the FSM if you haven't already. The link is in my signature. The information to start you off is in the EC section. There should be a hose from that tube that has a steel mesh (anti backfire) near the tube and a PCV valve at the other end of the hose. The PCV system should go into the intake downstream of the AFM, so if it open, you have a big vacuum leak in your intake.

What is the fuel pressure? Are you sure all of the injectors are firing? Are you getting spark to each cylinder? Was the car running at any time with the old AFM? Did the car have this problem when you bought it?

In an effort to keep heat of the fuel rail, I added DEI heat shroud to cover the existing insulation. At first I tried 1 inch, but it was too small, so I bought some 3/4 inch and cut it in half. I notched the shroud to go around the fuel rail mounts and where the fuel lines go out to the carburetors.

I did have to remove it from the car today to adjust the fork that goes to the brake pedal. The fork was too far in, so the brake light was on all of the time. The booster was in and out in about an hour. Once you have done it, the process gets a LOT faster.

Thanks. I could have sworn I saw a post in the past from Philip @240260280 on rebuilding the valve.

I what thinking something along those lines, too.

No, but I know them. Now, would you mind taking some time and learning some manners? @Mike @bpilati - Could this thread be merged with the thread below?

Jai might just have to get the alternator/VR fixed then come over to my house to get the other things worked on. I can cover a lot more ground at my place with all my tools available.

I think you shouldn't start two threads on pricing for one car.