SteveJ

I think this is the thread @grannyknot is thinking of:

Three posts and full of useful information. Welcome to the site. Thanks for the link. I've searched Amazon for fuse holders many times and don't recall seeing these puppies.

Just to clarify, @Namerow thought of the fishing line. I was thinking of taking strands of wire to compress the spring myself. Now I wonder if wire would also risk scoring. Let us know how well the rebuild functions.

I see the void Bruce refers to. Hmm, I might have to add a socket. I went a little further and put in bayonet sockets in my 260Z. Those sockets fit nicely where the old sockets did.

I'll try to remember to take some new ones of mine. I think I may have some posted in other threads, but there doesn't seem to be anything in the User CP to let me see the files I've uploaded for posts. I think one version of the software we had allowed me to do that.

You're going to have to learn how to use the multimeter to give us more information. It's difficult to diagnose with some qualitative observations.

To dim the LEDs, you'll need a PWM. Bruce (@Captain Obvious) made one for his car.

I responded to your PM. Be sure to put the year of your car in your posts. There are slight variations for each year that has the 9 pin connector there.

Since I have LEDs in all of my exterior lights, I went with LEDs on the turn signal gauges, too. One thing to remember is that with LEDs on your exterior lights, you should use an electronic flasher unit.

You might need to remove the green lenses for the gauges to get the BA9 bulbs to fit. I removed the lenses from the gauges in my 260Z and went with green bulbs. I get good illumination from them.

I never noticed any issues when I was running them in the 1990s, and I was driving the car in 100+ degree weather, too. Of course, I wasn't taking many trips where it would have a chance to heat soak.

She got a solid state VR from Rockauto. It was pretty cheap on close-out.

No, I hadn't even thought of that.

Keep the photos coming, Jerry.

I was going to call MSA to see if I get the same one back. If so, I'll go that way. If it's a random one, I'll go with RockAuto.

I happened to have a spare. I'm going to get my old one rebuilt.

Meh, he hijacked the thread.

The terminal designations are all the same. Nissan licensed the Bosch fuel injection system that was used in VWs, etc. The terminals for each half line up, but the wiring diagram shows the halves swapped. The EF section of the FSM shows the correct orientation with several figures starting at EF-54. It will most likely work.

What year 280Z?

There should be a screen filter on the fuel lines at the carburetors.

Don't forget about the screen filter before the carburetor.

I haven't torn apart a 280Z switch, but the concept is probably similar to the 240Z hazard switch, only with fewer wires. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/ When the switch is on, the green and green/yellow wires are connected. Green comes from the fuse box, and green/yellow goes to the turn signal flasher. With the hazard switch off, you should be able to measure 12VDC to GROUND at the green/yellow wire at the turn signal. If not, check for 12VDC to GROUND on the green wire at the hazard switch connector. If you have 12VDC there, the switch is the issue. For the hazards, check for 12VDC to GROUND on the green/blue wire at the hazard switch. If you don't have voltage, check for 12 VDC to ground on the red/white wire at the hazard light flasher. Report your results or post questions if you don't understand the instructions.

In the spring of 93, I transferred to a new assignment at Travis AFB. I was now a captain which was kind of a transition from getting by and living money-wise. So, with some extra dough ready to burn a hole in my pocket, I thought I would get a hobby car. I was hoping to find an RX-7. I tried to make an offer on one, but it was already sold. In June I found out about a 73 240Z for sale at the Lemon Lot on base. My girlfriend at the time knew the guy selling it. I took it for a test drive and decided to pull the trigger for $1800. It's a good thing I was ignorant about Z cars at the time, otherwise I might have walked away from this one. It had Weber downdraft carbs, 5 different tire brands (including a couple that were about down to the cord), and no caps on the brake reservoirs. I used it to learn about working on cars, and it held up despite the abuse. It's in my garage waiting for me to make the time to do right by it and fix all of my past mistakes. Then in January 2008, I was cruising through Craigslist ads (before all of the robbers/killers started using it) and found a listing for a 70 roadster and 74 260Z. I made plans to see both on the same weekend. The Z was closer, so I went to see it first. It was running, but I told the guy that I would come look at it and see if I could help him get it running. He had it listed for $3200, but he said he was knocking off $700 since it wasn't running. I went through all sorts of diagnostics in no particular order, and then I found the distributor cap was FUBAR. I told him I would buy the car and bring a good cap with me the next day. I showed up, installed the cap, and it fired...after I replaced the fouled spark plugs. I paid him $2500 and drove it home. Of course, the plan was to sell the 73 when I got the 74, but then I couldn't bring myself to part with the 240Z. After a few weeks, my wife said, "You're not selling the other car, are you?" I replied, "Nope." She put up with that but then established a two-toy rule for cars.

I'm old. I don't remember the links here.

Something like this in the proper diameter might work: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-20442/overview/