SteveJ

Single castle nut from same seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-FRONT-SPINDLE-CASTLE-NUT-WITH-WASHER-NICE-OEM-PARTS-/221864836376

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-FRONT-SPINDLE-CASTLE-NUT-WITH-WASHER-NICE-OEM-PARTS/222114221446

Connect the vacuum pump to the hose where the mechanical pump would go. See if you can pull fuel through it. A hairline crack above the fuel level would may not show much/any fuel leaking out, but it might be enough to let air in. I have seen threads in the past where people found this was the problem with pumping fuel through the fuel lines.

Look for cracks in the soft fuel hoses. That can introduce air into the line when you're trying to pump fuel. If you have a hand-held vacuum pump, try seeing if you can pull fuel up to the hose for the mechanical pump with it. If you have difficulty doing that, so will the mechanical pump.

Yeah, but can you ship a valve cover to the Netherlands for $15.45?

I would not be surprised if the door plate said 9/72 or later. I'm also wondering if you have the 5MPH front bumper from a 73. Those connectors are definitely what I've seen in 73s.

For completeness, this is what is in the 72 FSM.

Are you SURE you have a 72? The 10 pin connectors are laid out in the 73 FSM. What is the build date on the door plate? What is the VIN? BE-4 Body Electrical.pdf

Fix the fuel lines. If one is cracked, others probably are, too. 5/16 line is what you want. Next, get the timing right. After that, adjust the valves. If you still have a backfire, then adjust the carburetors.

Give me a heads up if you're coming back to track the car at Road Atlanta or Atlanta Motorsports Park. I'm only a half hour from either venue.

Google is your friend in cases like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=setting+points&oq=setting+points&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3j69i61j69i60.2167j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Chevette springs are an option. Cut to the desired height.

That's what I thought. It fits with your part photos and with what Mark posted. If you look at this site: http://www.5speeds.com/t5/index.html, it will show you other T5 applications. The GM version looks like you could use bullet connectors on it, and it runs about half as much as the others.

Just curious, is your reverse switch on the left or right side of the transmission? FYI. Looking through RockAuto, here are some of the part numbers I found: AIRTEX/WELLS 1S5283, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LS230, MOTORCRAFT SW1694

It's good to see that your tie rods held up.

Does that mean you have a line on a good one, Jason?

Jim is correct.

Good, I already pulled the trigger and bought some.

Chuck, Does that hose seem to be more flexible than the Nissan hoses? I noticed that on my front carburetor, the hose is almost kinked.

A turbo car has a turbocharger.

5/16 fuel line is what I've used to replace most of the lines in my car. I may have used 1/4 from the fuel rail to the carburetors, but it's been so long that I don't remember. Don't forget the line between the float bowl and nozzle on the carburetors. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a04/11-2541

This may help you with your understanding of relays: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/relays-simplified/

Search using http://images.google.com. Heck Alan uploaded the image to this site on Dec 23, 2003.

Yeah, what he said.

I didn't say to use starting fluid to start the car. I said to use it when the car starts to die. If it picks back up, that indicates a fuel problem. Checking the coil voltage to ground would confirm that you have enough voltage to generate a good spark. I would not suggest hot wiring the fuel pump. I would check voltage at the fuel pump or voltage to ground fuel pump relay to see if it drops when the key goes from Start to On.