SteveJ

So, will the car run in the ON position for a few seconds and die, or is it dying when you release the key? Have you tried having someone spray starting fluid into the AFM when the car is dying? What is the voltage from the positive terminal of the coil to GROUND when the car dies?

SteveJ - I think I'll go for a walk. Captain Obvious - You're not fooling anyone, you know.

I once made the mistake of leaving the parking brake on for a long time. Fortunately, I was able to persuade them to cooperate with a firm push on the car. You can download a 72 FSM (71 isn't available) from the link in my signature. That way you'll be armed with information specific to the 240Z brakes. I think there were wheel cylinder changes between 71 & 72, but enough of the information in the manual should be the same.

When I get better, I will seriously consider it.

I think this is the thread @grannyknot is thinking of:

Three posts and full of useful information. Welcome to the site. Thanks for the link. I've searched Amazon for fuse holders many times and don't recall seeing these puppies.

Just to clarify, @Namerow thought of the fishing line. I was thinking of taking strands of wire to compress the spring myself. Now I wonder if wire would also risk scoring. Let us know how well the rebuild functions.

I see the void Bruce refers to. Hmm, I might have to add a socket. I went a little further and put in bayonet sockets in my 260Z. Those sockets fit nicely where the old sockets did.

I'll try to remember to take some new ones of mine. I think I may have some posted in other threads, but there doesn't seem to be anything in the User CP to let me see the files I've uploaded for posts. I think one version of the software we had allowed me to do that.

You're going to have to learn how to use the multimeter to give us more information. It's difficult to diagnose with some qualitative observations.

To dim the LEDs, you'll need a PWM. Bruce (@Captain Obvious) made one for his car.

I responded to your PM. Be sure to put the year of your car in your posts. There are slight variations for each year that has the 9 pin connector there.

Since I have LEDs in all of my exterior lights, I went with LEDs on the turn signal gauges, too. One thing to remember is that with LEDs on your exterior lights, you should use an electronic flasher unit.

You might need to remove the green lenses for the gauges to get the BA9 bulbs to fit. I removed the lenses from the gauges in my 260Z and went with green bulbs. I get good illumination from them.

I never noticed any issues when I was running them in the 1990s, and I was driving the car in 100+ degree weather, too. Of course, I wasn't taking many trips where it would have a chance to heat soak.

She got a solid state VR from Rockauto. It was pretty cheap on close-out.

No, I hadn't even thought of that.

Keep the photos coming, Jerry.

I was going to call MSA to see if I get the same one back. If so, I'll go that way. If it's a random one, I'll go with RockAuto.

I happened to have a spare. I'm going to get my old one rebuilt.

Meh, he hijacked the thread.

The terminal designations are all the same. Nissan licensed the Bosch fuel injection system that was used in VWs, etc. The terminals for each half line up, but the wiring diagram shows the halves swapped. The EF section of the FSM shows the correct orientation with several figures starting at EF-54. It will most likely work.

What year 280Z?

There should be a screen filter on the fuel lines at the carburetors.

Don't forget about the screen filter before the carburetor.