SteveJ

The sources I found give the same transmission gear ratios, but the differentials are different. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html

I have a set. Shoot me a PM

I have a BUNCH of fuel filters on the way. They should arrive tomorrow or Saturday. I might still take off the filter that's on the car now and cut it open.

Okay, so I spent some time with the car tonight. The first thing I did was install an autometer fluid-filled gauge in place of the Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge. The face of the Mr. Gasket gauge was fogged up from me getting some gasoline on it. Really? After the gauge was in place, I started the car. The gauge read 9 PSI. I shut the car down and installed the 1-4 PSI FPR. After creating some new curse words trying to get the lock nut loose on it, I started the car again. Pressure was low, around 2 PSI, and it was easily corrected by adjusting the FPR. I set it at 3 and called it a night. Now, I have to consider the possibility that there is some rust or other junk floating around in the tank. Until I have the chance to drop the tank, I'm going to put some rare earth magnets on the outside of the tank in hopes they will hold the rust away from the pickup. Thank you, all, for your suggestions.

As a starting point, start going on Youtube to find videos on how to use a multimeter if you don't already know how. Download the FSM on a computer, not on your phone. You may want to print out the BE section. It has some excellent breakdowns of the circuits. from there, you get to dig in and see what the hell the IPO (idiot previous owner) did. We can coach you through a lot. Also download the wiring diagram for your year Z from AtlanticZ. Philip did a great job cataloging the different diagrams. Be patient. If we tell you to do things a certain way, it's for safety, efficiency, effectiveness, or some combination of those. With patience you will gain knowledge, and you can enjoy your car for a long time.

Good to hear. I was helping someone locally this past weekend. I looked at the fusible link holder and saw regular wire there. I educated the father and son on the importance of having the right links. Fortunately, the son had purchased an engine wiring harness, and it still had good links. By the way, 20+ years ago, my brother had to educate me on the importance of fusible links.

So, not trying to pick at scabs, but did you replace your links, too?

You better be careful. If Randy thinks his car will be more historically accurate with your spook, he'll stop at nothing to get it.

Here's your standard Xenon air dam in the "I'm too cheap to paint it" black.

Go to http://www.carpartsmanual.com Look for the parts you're interested in. When you find them, look at the month/years it was used. Both of the parts listed for the fender liner (items 79 and 80 on the correct page) did not come into production until Jan 1974 and were used through May 1976. After that, a different part was used (part 82 on the same page). Depending upon the build date of your car, it may not have received these parts. These parts were very frequently removed from the car and are less common today than unicorn farts. If you are fortunate enough to find someone who has a set and is willing to part with them, you'll probably be paying dearly for it. It's too bad. I wouldn't mind having fender liners for my cars.

Oh, most of those disappeared from the cars a long time ago.

That is what I used in my 260Z.

You might appeal to @Zup and @S30Driver for assistance. They live in your neck of the woods.

I could also change out the fuel filter and cut up the old one to see what might be lurking in the fuel tank.

Given how the fuel system is configured in my car, I would have trouble doing that. However, you have given me an idea. If I detect low fuel pressure, I could bypass the FPR. If fuel pressure remains low, it could indicate an issue like garbage in the fuel tank.

Thanks guys. I'm tracking you now. I was wondering about whether or not the mounting bracket was critical.

Of course, if you saw my other thread, you'd know that I'm still having issues with fuel pressure. If this keeps up, I'll just part the damn thing out.

So could you clarify that some for someone who is electrically inclined instead of mechanically inclined? I'm not sure what you mean by "let it float in the mount".

I have SM needles in the SUs. What are red springs? I have opened up the carburetors to 3 turns each. You may be on to something with the FPR. I ordered the 12-804 FPR.

Background: When I got the car, it was a stock L26 with flat top carburetors. Three years ago, I changed out the carburetors for round top carburetors. For a while I noticed that after I had been running at freeway speeds, returning to stop-and-go traffic would result in hesitation during acceleration until it seemed like the car cooled down for a while. I enriched carburetors some more, and the problem seemed to go away. In February, I did an engine swap, putting in an L28 with an N47 Maxima head. Since the head wasn't configured for a mechanical fuel pump, I just ran the stock electric fuel pump. The hesitation returned, even with enriching the carburetors even more. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and found the pressure to be around 2.5 PSI. I changed out to a small Holley fuel pump (12-147), but the pressure dropped down to 2 PSI. Saturday I changed out the fuel pump for a bigger Holley fuel pump with a fuel pressure regulator (L:12-802-1). The FPR was installed downstream of the fuel rail. At first, the pressure was at 12 PSI. I opened the small orifice on the exit of the fuel rail. The pressure dropped to 6 PSI. Moving the adjustment on top of the FPR did not raise or lower the fuel pressure. I moved the FPR to in front of the fuel rail. The pressure held at 4 PSI. I thought I was good to go. Today I drove the car to help a friend with his Z. It did fine on the trip down. It did fine when I took him in a ride in the car. When I was leaving, the old problem returned. I checked the fuel pressure when I got home. It was below 2 PSI. I moved the FPR back to downstream of the fuel rail. Pressure was 2.5 PSI. Again, using the adjustment screw did not change the pressure. I am out of ideas.

Yes, call them, and make sure the member number is in the system. Once that is established, the discount happens automagically when you do online orders. I haven't had any issues.

I have been battling fuel pressure/lean conditions since doing my engine swap. Since the new motor has an N47 head, I'm only using an electric fuel pump. The stock one didn't cut it. The baby Holley fuel pump was worse. Too bad since it mounted right where the stock pump did. I went with a bigger Holley with a fuel pressure regulator. I had to play with the hose routing some, but at the end, I got the pressure I needed. After some tweaking (going out to 3 turns), the engine didn't act lean on acceleration, even after it warmed up. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

So does that mean we have a baseline value for a 280ZX shell?

The kill switch doesn't affect jumping the battery. The problem is that a dead battery is a heavy load on the alternator. In the case of the OP, the current draw was greater than the 20A rating of the alternator circuit of the switch. You might be able to double up by placing the alternator in the solenoid terminal if the stud is long enough.

Funny, I didn't need to do anything like that. A lot of people say it can't happen, but I have seen on more than one occasion that a Z car distributor was installed 180 degrees out.