SteveJ

What guide did you use in doing the wiring? Did you get the ZX distributor mount? Are you sure you have a good ignition module? I had one arrive DOA on a rebuilt distributor. Post some photos of your work. Be sure to detail where you got the positive and negative for the module.

Yeah, if you put too much heat through it, you could weld the contacts. It is an interesting issue, though. The battery kill switch is designed for race applications where you wouldn't be expecting to start out with a nearly dead battery. You might want to opt for a tow the next time.

So the problem was operator error. I missed that in the first read.

Do you still have the door jamb plate?

Something is not right here. If you have the jump a properly wired car with the jumper cables in the correct location (in the back at the battery), you would not have much current going over the 20A contacts of the Moroso switch. It should be going to the solenoid. As I understand it, the kill switch is designed to isolate the battery from the rest of the electrical system. As a matter of fact, that is how the Moroso switch is described on Jegs.com. As for having a 100A alternator, you still should not have much current going back to the battery. If you are pulling 20 A on that connection, you have a dying or dead battery. If you are trying to use the battery kill switch as an overall kill switch, you could wire up something like the second picture. It would isolate the battery and kill the ignition. With the ignition cut, the engine stops, and the alternator stops with it.

The starter motor is a very sizable load. It will draw a lot of current and pull down your voltage, especially with an older/weaker battery. The fuel pump is nothing compared to the starter. Post the voltages you are measuring, starting with the battery and the car off.

Do not use the AtlanticZ. Use the FSM (Factory Service Manual). As for the link in my signature, refer to the attached picture. You will not get ready-made fusible links from a parts store. You may be able to get fusible link wire from them, and you will have to cut the wires to length and attach lugs to the ends. If you don't get a good crimp on the lug, you will have issues further down the road. On the other hand, you could purchase ready-made fusible links from the links I posted. I'm not sure why you insist upon being so obtuse, especially when you appear to lack the requisite knowledge to perform the repair properly.

Again, given the lack of provenance on the links, I recommend you replace them all. The FSM on page BE-6 gives the wire sizes in mm2. Take those sizes and find the right table on this site: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/awg-to-mm.htm. That will give you the gauge of the wire. If you don't have a copy of the FSM, download it from here or from the link in my signature.

1. Don't trust that chart. 2. Fusible link wire should burn up and leave the insulation intact. Considering the condition of the one link, that doesn't look like what happened in your car. 3. You can get genuine links from your local Nissan dealer (http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/24161a0100 and http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/24161y0100) or MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4329 - with covers if you need them or just these links: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4334, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4335, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4336) Image courtesy of MSA. These links don't cost that much, and they can prevent very expensive electrical fires.

That'll cause some issues. I hope those other home-made links are made of fusible link wire and not regular wire. Judging from the destroyed one, I'd doubt it.

What year Z, and where did you get the wiring diagram you were looking at? From that I can give you a better detailed description of what should be going on.

Okay, the harness at the fuel pump relay has 4 wires: white/black, black, green/blue and green/blue. If the white/black wire never has 12VDC+, you don't have the voltage to energize the coil. If the black wire does not have continuity with the negative post of the battery, you have a grounding issue. If you see voltage on the white/black wire, you have continuity between the black wire and negative post, and you jumper the green/blue wires together to get a running pump, you have a relay issue. Of course, with no oil pressure and the alternator still, you will not see voltage on the white/black wire.

https://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2006/09/14/the-grose-jet/

For your first problem, if it fires when starting and quits when the key is in ON, it is either the ballast resistor, ignition switch, or wiring issue between the switch and ballast resistor. For your other problem, what is the voltage? Have you compared the output of your charging system against what it says in the factory service manual?

Yeah, but you're probably Army, and I wasn't typing slowly.

Um, do you actually have a filter on that respirator? And I'm not talking about that nose bra you have on. What brand/model respirator is that? You'll need a HEPA cartridge to go on it. Do you know how to test the seal?

I've been chasing a fuel starvation myself at WOT. It showed up before my engine swap, but I was able to make the carburetors richer to compensate. Now that I have a 2.8 with higher compression, I have the SUs as rich as I can reasonably make them. My fuel pressure is low, though. You may want to check fuel pressure to verify whether or not that could be contributing to your problem.

Hang in there. Many of us probably have seen worse.

Are you finding much bondo?

Without knowing what else is on the circuit, what controls the circuit, what gauges the wires are, and what is the power draw of the fan, I wouldn't recommend it. Do you have the stock fan mounted on the engine? How about posting a picture of where the electric fan is mounted?

@Captain Obvious might have some insight.

It looks similar to this one to me.

I found its cousin in the Atlanta area: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/cto/6056995502.html $1500 for a roller missing doors, glass, and most of the sheetmetal. Also what is there is somewhat rusty.

I'm going to say that it will fetch at least $19,000

No, I'm a sparky. That's why I'm interested in the TIU tester.