SteveJ

RPM is important for voltage measurements. The FSM lists voltages for engine speed. For the tachometer, there is a resistor in the circuit. It is identified on page BE-3 of the FSM. There is also a ground and 12VDC source. Since the ground and 12VDC source are shared with other instruments, I would guess it's the resistor unless other gauges are acting up. Replacing it will probably require soldering in a new one on the old connector. 2.2Kohm 1 Watt would work. They have them at Frys, Amazon, etc. (Lifetime supply: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11101900ux0055-Metal-Resistor-Piece/dp/B015CHKSZW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493437627&sr=8-4&keywords=2.2k+ohm+1+watt+resistor) Without more testing, it's difficult to be sure if it's the alternator or voltage regulator. Rockauto has a closeout on a voltage regulator $12.52 + shipping. Their cheapest alternator is $22.06 +shipping, and that includes the core charge.

Bob Leitzinger wrecked his 510 at Road Atlanta last weekend. It happened right in front of me.

Well, Bob has been given his release from the hospital. I wonder if he's going to try to rebuild the car. All it needs is the new front clip.

That's the price you pay for having the guest house.

I finally figured out how to download the photos from Pages Manager.

I have seen photos of the car. @asim has a right-hand drive 260Z, so we do need to know the year. He will need a right-hand drive dash and steering column cover. The car looks to have suffered from years of neglect. Please post the year of your 260Z and the year of the 280Z that you acquired for parts.

Turn 12

How much resistance is there in the thermostat switch? Is the AC relay completely unplugged?

Please answer both questions.

That works. See the questions in the image.

Not without a wiring diagram.

I'm not sure. Since I didn't put the engine together, I didn't have a chance to take measurements. I'd have to research that. The combustion chamber is smaller, so I get higher compression.

N47 Maxima head

Yes, I do have a reason for the electric pump only. I don't want to remove the head and open up the window for the mechanical pump.

I finally got the photos from Friday online. https://stevescartography.wordpress.com/2017/04/24/friday-at-the-2017-mitty/

I was thinking of trying to mount a shroud on the radiator for the fan, but I haven't gotten around to it, yet. I know my fan clutch isn't in perfect shape, but I do hear the fan kick in still.

Now download a copy of the 76 FSM from http://www.xenonzcar.com onto your IPAD and look through the BE section. What I like about those drawings is that they focus on specific functionality, making it easier to trace circuits.

Having a common set of documents will allow for more specific instructions.

So make it count. You don't have to print the whole section. Print the pages that show the circuit breakouts. That's only about 10 to 13 pages. Could one of your parents print it out? Maybe ask your shop teacher if he could print it out for you.

What are the chances that you could get the BE section of the factory service manual printed out on regular paper? It would help in giving you guidance.

Turn 12

Thank you. I have a lot of gaps in carburetor knowledge. I was impressed with the amount of information on needles on that page, though.

Could this be of any help? http://www.teglerizer.com/suneedledb/090needlesortjava2.htm

There was plenty of door-to-door racing, too.

I was hoping Kully would post some photos since most of us believe a 280Z cap won't fit on a ZX distributor. A photo showing the presence or absence of the matchbook would be helpful.