SteveJ

Flat to flat is 2 inches on the KYB I just took out of the box.

Most tracks have some sort of track insurance. I think Hagerty is also offering track insurance, but I believe that is for HPDE, not racing. I don't know if other track insurance covers fender-to-fender racing even if it's a vintage event.

That's the same company that sells the Ford panel rivets that are almost an exact match for the Z panel rivets. You can get 50 of those for the price of about 10 Nissan panel rivets. Here's a link to an earlier thread where I mentioned them:

Thank you. Now I know what I'm buying on the next credit card cycle. I might opt for the 1 inch drive to save having to grind out the opening.

I know there are several people here from the Bay Area. I was at Travis AFB in the mid 90s. That's where I bought my first Z.

Tell us where you are. There might be someone near you with the correct tools to remove the fill plug. I was lucky that when I needed to remove the fill plug on mine, it cooperated.

I knew there must be a reason I was trying to save the screws from all of my old clamps.

I found out this morning that there will be at least one more Z car. David Martin also had his car accepted. Now I wish I made plans when Randy first told me he was trying to get his car in.

The ones I purchased had the round head screws. Unfortunately, I can't remember from whom I purchased them.

I do want to perform a compression check on the motor. I've been busy helping a friend with his LS1 240Z. If I can remember, I'll put the car on my ramps to see if I can get the block type. I also need to check the fuel pressure and decide if I am going to change out the fuel pump. Finally, there is some re-wiring I want to do in order to power the fuel pump while starting. Have you planned out what fuel pump you're going to use?

I wouldn't purposely mess with another Steve. We took it easy on the timing since I still had some regular mixed in with the premium. I have just been putting in ethanol free premium since a week before my friends and I did the swap. I wasn't too worried about the details of the engine since I got an insanely good deal on it. It even had a new clutch and flywheel thrown in. Here's a photo of the engine when it was in the previous owner's car.

I forgot which block. It's probably an N42, though I know better than to swear on it.It has flat top pistons. I asked the previous owner about details. He said that aside from the head and pistons, it was just a run-of-the-mill build. All I know is that the engine pulls a hell of a lot better than the old tired engine I had in the car.

I lucked into an MN47/L28 combo that was a fresh rebuild. It's a nice combination. I had to open up the SUs all of the way to prevent it from being too lean. I've also considered researching a different needle profile to fatten up the carburetors some more. I'm also running square port headers on the round exhausts. I haven't seen any issues thus far.

Pictures?

There will be at least a couple of Datsuns running around Laguna Seca this year for the Monterey Historics. Glenn Chiou and Randy Jaffe both had cars accepted. John Morton will be driving Randy's car. Okay Bay Area guys, there are no excuses. We expect photos and videos.

Seriously, it's difficult to gauge the condition of most of the components just by photographs. I would look at this thread and do as much of it as you can: After that, you'll need to assess the mechanical components. Look at the date stamps on the tires. There's a good chance they are old and rotten. Examine the body above and below thoroughly. What is your target? What kind of car do you want to end up with? That will drive your budget.

I would prime the fuel line. The fuel filter is probably the easiest access point.

A plan.

I have a beat up air cleaner cover I can let you have cheap. I just have to remember where my stash of wing nuts are to secure it.

This counts as threadjacking, Charles. To atone for this, you must bring us a shrubbery.

The voltage on the injectors will only fluctuate about 2 volts when they are firing. You might consider getting a fuel pressure gauge to install on the fuel line in the engine bay. Get one that goes to 60 PSI. From your follow-up, it sounds like you didn't have pressurized fuel in the rail. I'm not an expert on fuel injection, but I'm thinking the injectors might not be making much of a clicking sound if there isn't fuel in them. In the meantime, download the FSM for your car. You can get it from this site or from the link in my signature.

You're welcome. If you have any other questions, post away.

It would be unusual for there to be an issue with the turn signal after Dave reconditioned it, but it is not impossible. The turn signal is the point where the brake light circuit and turn signal circuit meet that could cause the issue that you describe. Fortunately a meter and knowledge of the circuits can give us a more definitive answer.

Gainesville, GA

Yes, they are. They tend to transmit less vibration than the brass ones. Personally I never have been bothered by that with the brass bushings.