SteveJ

Adding some dielectric grease in the socket wouldn't hurt.

While we are going over things, you do have a condenser attached to the negative wire of the coil, don't you? Make sure the spark plug and coil wires are seated well.

Well, if it's in wood shape, you could do a nice mahogany stain on it. That would really stand out. Damn autocorrect.

It's probably the turn signal switch. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ I'm two hours away if you want a definitive diagnosis.

I said we weren't going to get into that.

I didn't emphasize it because I was planning to inspect in person, especially since the car has been recently painted.

I saw them in person. The current owner is a good friend.

Libre Wheels. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=bre_datsun_libre_wheels

Come to think of it, @Stanley, have you checked the gap & dwell of your points lately?

What I told you about points and voltage around the coil is not in the manual because it was Automotive 101 back when these cars were made. We won't even go into how, in a pinch, people would set the gap with the cardboard from a cigarette carton after they filed the points some because the points got fouled.

Do you have points? If the gap is closed on the points (or close to closed), you won't see full coil voltage from positive to ground. Having the key on with the engine not running is why points will burn up. They aren't designed to have a constant flow of current. For the hard starting, are you sure it's not a fuel issue?

Unless your car is running rough, I'm not sure if there is an issue here. Am I missing something? Are other electrical systems malfunctioning in your car?

There is a Red/Blue wire going to the speedometer for the Brake Warning lamp. After the light, it comes out Yellow/Blue. The Yellow/Blue wire branches off to get grounded at the Master Cylinder and Hand Brake, per the 1971 Supplement.

Don't measure across the coil. Measure from the positive terminal of the coil to ground. If you are measuring across the coil with the points closed, you will see zero volts. If you are measuring across the coil while the car is running, the voltage will seem low, especially if your meter does not respond quickly from the voltage going up and down 13.5 times a second (or more if your idle is higher). Here's a basic breakdown of the wiring for the ignition: 1. Starting the car: The ignition switch connects the White/Red wire (12VDC+) to the Green/White wire. The Green/White wire goes to the tachometer and comes out Black/White. The Black/White wire goes to the coil. 2. Running: The ignition switch connects the White/Red wire to the Black/White wire. The Black/White wire goes to the ballast resistor and becomes a Green/White wire on the other side of the resistor (resulting in a drop in voltage). The Green/White wire goes back into the wiring harness where it joins the Green/White wire described above. The negative wire of the coil goes to the distributor where it meets up with the points. The points will ground the circuit when they close to generate the spark.

You should have moved up here. You would have been able to get me to come over to lend a hand.

I had been wondering why you've been so quiet.

That's the correct badge for a Z432 from all of the photos I can find.

You can get them from a Nissan dealer. Find part numbers at carpartsmanual.com or buy the parts manual from this website. (A great way to support this forum) Zcardepot.com has them, and MSA zcarparts.com probably does, too.

Yes, the engine is in and running great. I could make it up your way around the weekend of the 25th if you want to do some diagnostics.

So, you're up around Toccoa, right? That's not too far from me. Besides, didn't you want to see how my car felt with the Chevette springs?

Moving out west has been good for you Z wise, hasn't it?

Didn't you post these same photos on FB? They look familiar to me.

I had to open up my SUs to 3.5 turns on the L28 that was swapped into my 260Z. I need to install a pressure gauge to see if the stock electric fuel pump delivers enough pressure. Cliff's carbs are tempting, but my Z budget isn't that big this year.

I take pride in my mistakes. Those are opportunities to learn. Sometimes I learn that I can be pretty stupid.

The hatch with vents and the 240Z pillar emblem were phased out during the 1971 model year. The heater control panel looks the same to me as this one: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08d17/40-3401A. I can't really speak to the radio, but everything else looks like at 72 to me.