SteveJ

Don't forget about @Zed Head and @Captain Obvious. They are on top of a lot of the electrical threads. Heck, I appreciate all of the information provided by others, too. You don't see many questions from me because I have been reading here and find my solutions frequently before I have the problem. I just try to store away as much information from this site as possible.

I did forget one other possibility. The insulator in the 1157 socket where I circled could be cracked/broken, allowing the contacts to touch. That would result in the same symptoms. I have experienced that before.

Take out the 1156 bulb. Put in the 1157 bulb. I'm guessing it will be the bulb circled in the lower right of the attached wiring diagram.

I mounted it to the transmission tunnel in my 260Z. No issues so far (7 or 8 years later).

Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I decided to experiment a little. I bought a fork cap tool and reamed it out to fit a gland nut. Sorry for the picture quality. I didn't feel like getting a better camera when I was done.

He really liked that place...

I was forced to drive my Z around today by this miscreant (@Captain Obvious). He demanded that I take him to the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame/Dawsonville City Hall. (Fortunately it's the same building.) We look homeless in this photo, don't we?

From the factory service manual:

That is what's left of a relay. It's only important if you need the circuit it was switching to work. Where was it plugged in? What are the wire colors at that plug?

Are you saying that the high beam indicator is lit when the low beams are on?

Why not modify if the parts aren't in pristine condition? I put 240Z bumpers on the car. I added relays for the headlights and LED headlights. I replaced the engine with a 2.8L that was freshly rebuilt. The previous owner modified the ignition to the ZX ignition. I put on 16 inch wheels. I won't hesitate to modify it some more as I see fit. I'm going to enjoy the car, and my widow can sell it when I'm done enjoying it. As for the seatbelt interlock relay, the requirement went away quickly and quietly toward the end of 1974. Since the 260Z ended up being an extended model year, I believe Nissan was able to get rid of the interlock relay by the time the 280Z was rolled out.

We 260Z owners are in the same boat. Let's row harder.

Where did you read about the T connector? Context is everything. Many people have modified their Z cars. One popular conversion is the "one wire GM alternator". You would need to provide a part number/markings on the alternator to confirm. The wires you have circled are the Sense and Lamp wires. The Sense wire tells the alternator what the voltage is in the system. While the Lamp wire compares the output of the alternator to the system voltage. If the output is low, the lamp lights.

I just went downstairs to check mine. It has a slight angle down, but it's not that noticeable. I'm not sure whether the angle decreased since that photo on my blog, or if the angle in the photo looks greater because the front end is slightly elevated.

Look here. I have one photo after I mounted the air dam and before I mounted the bumper. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/ I think the top angled back like yours.

http://www.classiczcars.com/store/category/6-club-products/

The $23,500 is the minimum starting bid. There are no bids, yet.

Yeah, I don't think that is a $1500 car, even if it is a 2+2.

But who said you had to buy it new? By the time you add your labor in for your square tube idea, you've about paid for that offset wrench anyway.

Here's an interesting tool, too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I6TBQIW

Okay, the 2 inch 8 point is too big for the gland nut. Too tired to take a photo.

2 inches across on the flats...at least for the KYB struts.

The 260Z is seen as a transition car in the US while Nissan was finalizing the fuel injection for emissions purposes. On the other hand, with the lack of love, there is less guilt about modifying it.

You might need to weld the bolts on to have them secure enough to torque on them. Take photos, too. I want to see if it works.

Hmm, thinking about it, you could probably drill a couple of 5 or 6 mm holes in the gland nut and weld them in place. then you could heat the strut tube with a map gas torch and apply brake fluid to help break the rust loose. With the bolts welded in place, you could use them with the tongue and groove pliers to twist off the gland nut.