SteveJ

I would tend to agree with Jerry. I was talking about this car at lunch with @Patcon. I think if you could get 2 or 3 people in an auction who really want a one-owner 240Z, it might go higher. The problems with the Hagerty valuation are 1) they tend to run high IMHO and 2) they group the 73 with the earlier 240Zs. Within the North American 240Z community, the 73 isn't considered as favorably as the 72 and the Series 1 cars. @Carl Beck could probably give a better idea of what the higher end cars are swapping hands for these days.

At first Mike's name didn't click with me, but as soon as I saw the photos, I realized I knew the car. The car looked great back in the summer of 2011, and it still looks great. It was definitely Mike's baby. It's probably a great opportunity for someone to purchase a nicely restored one-owner 240Z. That's coming from someone who owns two Zs that were rode hard and hung up wet by multiple owners.

Here are the ones I have from the 2011 ZCON.

I met Mike at the 2011 ZCON in Savannah. I remember his car well. I'm sorry to hear that this is an estate sale.

Oh sure, Jim, skip over what I've documented. The roller ball will stay in place nicely with a tiny dab of dielectric grease. I have rebuilt a few switches. There are descriptions of early and lat turn signal switch rebuilds on Fiddling with Z Cars.

Thank you for filling in the gaps, Jim.

There are two flasher relays. In the 240Z, I believe one is tucked up under the passenger side while the other is under the driver side. I can't remember which is for the hazard lights and which is for the turn signals.

I know in a previous thread that I believe you started, I posted the diagram out of the FSM. Find that post, look at it, and ask questions. Or just find the turn signal diagram in the BE section of the FSM, study it, and ask questions.

Don't forget to check the simple stuff first. A bad ballast resistor could allow the car to start, but it would cut off as soon as the key is released. Use an ohmmeter and check across the terminals on the opposite sides of the resistor. If it's more than a couple of ohms, that is your problem.

Go with the 3 Ohm Fireball, bypass the resistor and live a happy life.

The light on the gauge is wired in parallel with your blinkers. If the light in the gauge is on steady, it means the turn signal is not flashing, and you should check the flasher relay for the turn signals. If the light in the gauge does not come on, it could mean there is an issue with the circuit going to the gauge, an issue with the bulb, or that the overall circuit is not getting power (usually an open circuit). If your hazard lights flash properly at the corners and dash, it tends to mean there is an issue with the hazard switch, turn signal flasher relay, turn signal specific wiring, or the turn signal switch (if neither turn signal works) or an issue with the turn signal switch or wiring for that side (if one side works but the other doesn't).

I love seeing photos of your car, Jim @Zup

By the way, once the center nut is removed, the wheel pulls off. However, it is good to leave the nut threaded on loosely so that you don't hit yourself in the face with the steering wheel after you wiggle it loose. Also, if you have all of the other components in place, you can test the horn by putting a jumper wire to the green/black wire on the dash harness near the steering wheel and grounding it. If that does not sound the horn, you could also have a bad/missing horn relay.

The most likely culprit is the turn signal switch. If not that, then there is an issue somewhere in the wiring for that side downstream of the switch. The 76 FSM has a nice breakout of the circuit in the BE section.

If there is an issue with the fuel pump relay, the good news is that replacements are readily available. Just search for Volkswagen Bosch fuel pump relay. Nissan licensed the Bosch system. The bad news is that it's still $60+ for the relay.

@Carl Beck might know of a place.

Look at the jpg or pdf at https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/. It shows a green/yellow for the hazard and green for the turn signals respectively coming off the fuse box. I know I captured the relative positions of the fuse box in my diagram.

The old engine smoked like a 3 pack/day habit. The new engine is freshly rebuilt, has flat top pistons, and an N47 Maxima head. That's a nice combo. I am going to find out if there is a build sheet on it, too. My friend who led the swap thinks it has an interesting cam, too. As I was putting on the valve cover, I was stunned by the valvetrain. You could eat off it...if you didn't mind synthetic oil in your food.

No, but it was the only way to get it to reach. I don't plan on keeping it, either.

Today was engine swap day. Three very good and generous friends came over and made the day happen. I did more of tool fetching and parts running than I did turning wrenches. By the time we were done, the engine came to life. That was such a good feeling.

For the turn signal switch, I have plenty of photos on my blog, along with a write-up.

Sorry. I haven't needed to open up the headlight switch, so I couldn't tell you.

If you need a replacement, let me know. I probably have one.

I believe I bought an assortment like this: http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug-gasket/needa-parts-oil-drain-plug-gasket/257222_0_0 I'll be working on the car over the next few days. I'll see if I can tell which type I used.

Get a 3 ohm coil and you won't need a ballast resistor.