SteveJ

Yeah, I don't think that is a $1500 car, even if it is a 2+2.

But who said you had to buy it new? By the time you add your labor in for your square tube idea, you've about paid for that offset wrench anyway.

Here's an interesting tool, too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I6TBQIW

Okay, the 2 inch 8 point is too big for the gland nut. Too tired to take a photo.

2 inches across on the flats...at least for the KYB struts.

The 260Z is seen as a transition car in the US while Nissan was finalizing the fuel injection for emissions purposes. On the other hand, with the lack of love, there is less guilt about modifying it.

You might need to weld the bolts on to have them secure enough to torque on them. Take photos, too. I want to see if it works.

Hmm, thinking about it, you could probably drill a couple of 5 or 6 mm holes in the gland nut and weld them in place. then you could heat the strut tube with a map gas torch and apply brake fluid to help break the rust loose. With the bolts welded in place, you could use them with the tongue and groove pliers to twist off the gland nut.

Here is what the redneck in me would do if I was in your situation again, Guy: 1. Weld two 6mm bolts to a piece of steel with a cutout to go around the shaft of the strut. 2. Mark where the bolts strike the top of the gland nut and drill two holes in the gland nut. 3. Apply a lot of brake fluid along the threads. 4. Heat the strut tube with a map gas torch. 5. While hot, apply more brake fluid along the threads. 6. Use the redneck wrench. Of course, when I tackle the 240Z, I'm going to try Jim's socket trick after applying brake fluid to the threads on the struts for several days in advance.

Come on down here. I have one.

Can you not get an air chisel on one of those cuts to turn it?

By the way, Jai, there appears to be ethanol free gas in Chatsworth, too, if you trust that station.

Jim, I think that might be a deeper well version of the one I purchased. I'll post photos after receipt.

You may have misunderstood previous posts. What I have seen posted is that you don't drain the transmission until you can verify that you can open the fill plug. Many people have said it is difficult to impossible to get some of them off. The only time I tried, I got it off with no problem, possibly because I read some good advice here before attempting to do it.

Exposed? Bow Chicka WOW WOW!

Get it right, man! It's Bow Chicka WOW WOW!

Unfortunately, I once had a gland nut get boogered by tongue & groove pliers.

I took a chance on a used 8 point on ebay. I will report back the results.

So, would a 2 inch 8 point socket maybe work better?

You are going to salvage more parts off that, I hope. Brake boosters and Master Cylinders are unobtanium. Someone might be willing to pay for them. Grab the light. See if someone wants an L28 block for a rebuild.

Flat to flat is 2 inches on the KYB I just took out of the box.

Most tracks have some sort of track insurance. I think Hagerty is also offering track insurance, but I believe that is for HPDE, not racing. I don't know if other track insurance covers fender-to-fender racing even if it's a vintage event.

That's the same company that sells the Ford panel rivets that are almost an exact match for the Z panel rivets. You can get 50 of those for the price of about 10 Nissan panel rivets. Here's a link to an earlier thread where I mentioned them:

Thank you. Now I know what I'm buying on the next credit card cycle. I might opt for the 1 inch drive to save having to grind out the opening.

I know there are several people here from the Bay Area. I was at Travis AFB in the mid 90s. That's where I bought my first Z.