SteveJ

Actually, I contacted the Middle Tennessee Z guys through Facebook. They are planning to have Z Attack about once every 3 years. The next one is in 2017. They anticipate the 2020 ZCCA convention in Tennessee to go with the 50th Anniversary of the Z celebration at Nissan NA HQ. It will probably be in May as the last couple of Z Attacks.

Which style? 240Z or 280Z? I find it a big challenge to try to figure out good suggestions. That's why I started this thread. Ideally, it would be a part that works for all S30s or a part that is NLA but have a demand.

I intended it to be the threshold plate. While the originals are aluminum, I would think stainless would hold up well. The scuff plates (black plates) are still available for the 240Z. They aren't available for the 260Z/280Z. The later style might be feasible. I don't know if the scuff plates changed in other markets, though.

Oh sure, you want mine to look really bad. At least I finally got the 240Z rear bumper mounted on the 260Z.

But, of course, Jim.

Some of you may be familiar with the Harrington Group (http://www.groupharrington.com/en). They market stainless steel bumpers for 240Zs and other classic cars. The bumpers are built well and mount up to the 240Z very well. I even adapted a set to fit on my 260Z. I started a conversation with Nguyen Thao when I sent a message to let them know I was a happy customer. I suggested to Thao that there could be a market for other stainless steel replica parts for the 240Z (and maybe later Zs, too). I suggested the threshold plate (I accidentally told him door sill.) as an example. I got their attention, and he wants me to send some photos. I'll probably send measurements, too. I think the 260Z/280Z scuff plate might be another good candidate. What other parts do you think they could craft from stainless for our cars? I would like to pass along suggestions (and photos) to see what they think they could produce. I think they could be a great supplier for the community. If you want to see their products on a car, here is a link to my blog posts on mounting the bumpers. I still need to write up the rear bumper mounting. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/?s=bumper

Jim, Jim, Cliff, & Pat - Z Attack will be in 2017. Let's try to meet up there.

A 300ZX forum might be able to provide more information. Have you looked at http://www.xenonzcar.com to see if the FSM is available to get diagnostic info?

No bumperettes on the stainless, but it still looks nice. You can delete the rubber strip, too, but I opted to keep it.

Now I don't feel so bad about shelling out $2,000 for two sets of front & back stainless steel bumpers. Looks nice with the fresh chrome.

The 78 cap won't work on the 76.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41200-240z-gas-caps-are-outrageous-locking/?page=1

The VIN and door plate info could help resolve this.

Get some underside photos, especially of the frame rails and floor pans. It will help your cause.

Correct. Sometimes the springs break in the door mechanism, causing the door to lock automatically when it closes.

Holding the handle only works on the 77 & 78. Earlier Z cars only lock when the door is closed.

Good seeing you around, Philip.

The rumor I heard was Austin for 2017. There's always ZAttack in Nashville in 2017. That's my plan for next year.

Noticing how far forward the gear selector is, I would postulate that the Z has an autotragic transmission with a modified gear selector.

Have you tried an inline spark tester? http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Line-Spark-Tester/dp/B000MHNDSM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage That can tell you whether or not you have a strong spark. What is the timing set to? Have you used an ohmmeter to check the resistance from positive to negative and from the center post to negative on the coil? Report the readings. Do you have the stock transistor ignition unit? Have you verified the wiring for the ignition matches the factory wiring diagram?

The strange thing is that I have seen someone get the distributor 180 out before. Don't ask me how, but it happened.

I know I won't be going. The budget just won't allow it.

You do need a passport to travel from the US into Canada. I wish your son well at the trials.

As Zed said, use BE-10. You should have 12 VDC to ground at the white wire when the key is on the ON position. Moving the turn signal stalk up or down should not cause the voltage to ground at the white wire to stay at zero. It should cycle, going down to zero and return to 12 (though your meter probably won't react quickly enough to see it go all of the way up to 12) due to the flasher unit. Note: Keep the black probe of your meter on the chassis. That is your ground.

That's horrible news. Indeed, it is a sad day.