SteveJ

By the way, here's the truth table for the 73 combo switch: So the red wire should have voltage to ground when the headlight switch is on. Have you verified you are using a good ground point when measuring voltage?

I'm glad you got that sorted out. Being able to eliminate possible problems help you move on to find the real cause.

Actually I need to refine the testing. With the battery disconnected... Remove the R wire from the relay and see if you have continuity between the R and WR wires. If you do, it might be that the combo switch is not opening the contacts. If #1 shows continuity, disconnect the wire going into the combo switch and re-test continuity between the R & WR wires. If you no longer have continuity, that implicates the combo switch. If you still have continuity, you have a wiring issue. If #1 shows no continuity, check for continuity between the B & S terminals with the R wire still disconnected. If you have continuity there, the relay has a problem.

I'm not exactly sure how you wired it, but I think it should be something like this. (See below. It looks right.) S - 12VDC+ (This should be the R or RY wire from the fuse box) S1 - low beam ground at combo switch S2 - high beam ground at combo switch B - 12VDC+ fused L1 - low beam positive L2 - high beam positive Now, I took another look. It seems like that is how you wired it. So, I would disconnect the battery and look for continuity between the S & B terminals with your wires landed. If it is, then disconnect the WR or R wire and test again. If the relay checks out fine, move to the combo switch. Just my 2 cents.

If the light is still coming on with the car off and the wire plugged into the switch, no, you don't need the combo switch in.

The switch is connected to ground. However, the positive side on the light, should be connected to the ignition circuit. Unplug the wire from the brake switch. Put the positive lead from your voltmeter on the wire, and touch the negative lead to ground. See if you have voltage. Let us know how much. Then we know where we need to go from there.

I'm glad you figured it out. You look like your old self again.

I grabbed a picture of a later ZX ICM, but this will work. Coil positive to the +. Coil negative to the -. Coil negative should only have one wire going to the ICM. I believe the non-latching 2 pin 6.3mm connector from Vintage Connections should plug into it. https://www.vintageconnections.com/products/6-3mm-connectors?variant=46131501138241

You probably used the same email address that you used for Madkaw.

I sent a PM to @madkaw. If you get an email notification for the PM, use that email address to try to log in.

It's listed in the parts fiche for the rear bumper: 62692-E4101 Key #65 - https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/tail-gate-panel-trim-lock-rear-bumper

Did you log in with your email address that was associated with Madkaw?

Who said you had to look at a physical copy? https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/windshield-wiper You're probably being too specific.

Since most of the users here are 'Murican, try windshield wiper in your searches. Also, did you look at the parts fiche to see what parts may be wear parts?

If you are on Facebook, you can send a message to their page to find out.

I think it's Fitzy.

Did you find the supplement on the fan and ventilation controls? I attached it here just in case. s30-heater.pdf

I had to clearance the holes on the radiator support bracket from 10mm to 13mm, but the radiator is in.

I'm getting ready to install a new radiator in my 260Z. I went with a Mishimoto radiator. For prep work, I installed rivnuts on the radiator to make it easier to bolt in. They feel very secure on the mounting tabs, and it beats trying to thread a nut onto a bolt run through the radiator support. I think my supervisor approved of my work, too.

I would expect this would work, too. https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Standard-Reinforced-Temperature-Accessories/dp/B0CTY91BNB

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-gasket-exhaust~20692-m3060.html You need 2.

That would be easy to check. Plug a 12VDC accessory into the cigarette lighter. If it works, then it's unlikely to be a grounding issue.

I can't tell you anything about a box on the side as there was only one part number listed in the catalog for the 240Z, but there are other threads where @Captain Obvious and I have talked about the voltage regulator on the meters.

If you don't have a low fuel light, the 240Z sender. If you have a low fuel light but don't care about it, the 240Z sender with a modification of the wiring harness.

It needs to go to the dimmer or be grounded. BE-17 Closeup.pdf