SteveJ

I could have sworn I've also seen a 200SX in livery similar to Hurley Haywood's car. I'll have to search my pictures from previous years... And I found it. I guess the driver had to take care of business before hitting the track.

Here's a picture of a 200SX that was at the Mitty at Road Atlanta this year.

I just ordered all of the parts for my ice chest A/C. Maybe that will make the trip a little more bearable.

It wouldn't apply to your car. The 260Z had carburetors. It also had an electric fuel pump at the tank and a mechanical fuel pump at the engine. The dual fuel pump design was an effort to combat vapor lock that would occur with the flat top carburetors. The fuel pressure in the 260Z was around 4 psi or less. Your car has fuel injection. That means it has a higher pressure electric fuel pump mounted at the tank. "Vapor lock" in a 280Z is not the same. By 79 or 80, Nissan went with a priming mode for the fuel pump during engine start to overcome any leakdown that allowed vapor to form in the fuel lines.

You need to get a dwell meter so you can check that.

What did you set the gap and dwell at on the points? What is your static timing set at? Why do you think it is still "sucking fuel"? Have you checked the float bowls to see if they still have fuel? Does it start with starting fluid? Have you made sure you didn't burn up your points? How do your spark plugs look? You need fuel, spark and correct timing to get the engine to run. Fuel is a likely issue, but since most people don't know how to set gap, dwell, and timing, don't discount those, either.

A worn/missing bushing on the shifter will make it sloppy. Of course, the term "horrible" doesn't lend itself to an accurate description of the shifting. Frankly, I am very comfortable with the action of the shifter in my 260Z.

Changing the oil removes moisture and other contaminants that might have collected in the old oil. If you get the urge to wrench on a Z, let me know. It wouldn't hurt to have someone push me to work on the cars.

It only matters if the relay has a diode.

I'm glad my guides could help, and great job of translating technical information from one language to another.

Come on, now. You're supposed to give fuel efficiency in litres per 100KM. If you keep this up, you'll lose your membership to the International Hoser Hut.

You have to swap the right rear tire from the donor car to yours.

I bought a poster with two men working on a small clay model. I'm planning on bringing that.

The 7 inch form factor for the headlights is very common, and it is still used for Jeeps. Since Wranglers are popular that means we will benefit from the headlight availability for quite some time.

The voltage for the brake lights is interrupted at three places downstream of the fuse: 1. The switch at the brake pedal 2. The hazard switch 3. The turn signal switch. If you have voltage at the turn signal switch but not downstream, it could be the turn signal switch itself. With the turn signal stalk in the center position, you should have continuity between the wires on the outer part of the switch, pins 1, 2 & 3 in picture Turn_Signal_Repair_39 on the Turn Signal Repair page. There is a rocker switch (picture Turn_Signal_Repair_25) that breaks contact between 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 when you move the turn signal stalk. I understand about the translation challenges. I hope this explanation helps.

Review these and ask any remaining questions: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Things to consider: 1. Was there a California emissions version of the 75? 2. If so, will it have the same equipment as a 77? 3. Will it pass the visual test on smogging? 4. Didn't the fuel pump relay, etc., change between 76 & 77?

It's the Hoser Hut!

A person selling an old car was less than truthful? I can't believe it.

Patcon lives in the area.

No pictures = just guessing. Go to http://www.zhome.com and research problem areas on early Z cars.

I will get to the hotel Monday afternoon, Philip. I'll give you a call after Wendy and I get unpacked.

For a Z with an ammeter, re-route one of the alternator wires through the glove box to a single pole Maxi Fuse holder. Use an 80A fuse in it. When you park, open the glove box and remove the fuse. You could pretty much do the same on the white/red wire going to the ignition switch. On the 280Z, you could interrupt it near the firewall connector C9.

Dang, I would have preferred the Staybridge as the primary.

17331-N4200 is used in 76 and later. Courtesy Parts lists it as NLA, but Nissanparts.cc doesn't list it as NLA (though they might list less information than they previously would). NissanPartsDeal.com might have it, but they say to call to verify. A few other places claim to have them, but I don't know the veracity of their listings/websites.