SteveJ

The 240Z only has one fusible link. You'll find it down at the starter.

Have you met any members of the Upstate Z Club? I've met some on a couple of occasions. They meet not too far from you.

Take just a little more time, open the distributor cap and pocket the rotor.

If you're staying with an externally regulated alternator, look at Rockauto for a VR. As for wiring connections, crimping is industry standard for most connections because it is faster than soldering. If you have a lot of spare time, feel free to solder. And I'll second what Zed head said (sounds nice out loud) about the connections.

Has the engine bay been hacked up? If not, I'm not sure why you would need to add wire. Also, many of the connectors are available at http://www.vintageconnections.com. I can teach you how to crimp wires so they look like they came from the factory.

Even more reason for me to pay Charles a visit. Have meter, will travel. I also have a couple tach/dwell meters in my garage. All it would cost you is some Diet Dew, and some good BBQ, preferably from a place that have hushpuppies to die for. It's been over 20 years since I set gap and dwell, but I can probably still manage it.

I was wondering where the look came from...

If you have an ammeter, hook it up to the battery while the car is off. Pull the connection to the VR. If the draw drops, you know you have a bad VR. This may help with diagnostics: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/16/some-electrical-basics-and-troubleshooting/ Let me know if you need a housecall.

Charles, let me know if you continue to have issues. I might be able to do a house call.

Contact MSA.

Here are some pictures from today. Who is that curly headed guy?

I took a whole lot of photos yesterday. The first batch is online. It will take a while to get photos from all three days up, so check my website frequently. http://stevescartography.wordpress.com

It looks like you were close to the mark.

Great thing to read after dinner.

I hope your car isn't officially labeled as a gross polluter. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS get a test run before doing an official test in California.

Okay, I'm going to revive this thread to get some advice. I just got this lift: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift. Where should I place the rear lifting pads? I haven't put a Z on a lift for so long, that I can't remember the optimal location.

IMHO it would be. I've already had the pleasure of meeting Philip. I also met Carl Beck and Ron Carter when they came out my way for The Mitty. I was able to track down Guy, aka Diseazed, at the Savannah convention. There are a lot of people on this board worth meeting, and that includes you.

The next issue is then how much capacitance to go with the inductance of the coil? I'm betting that a 40,000V coil has more inductance than a 20,000V coil. That makes me want to go back through my Amazon wish list and get that inductance meter...http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAV6ZRU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1D5A9IK8SOSHO&coliid=I2DITKM6A47PQ5&psc=1

It was just your turn to make a mistake. However, it's like the possession arrow in College Basketball. The next mistake is mine.

I'm betting he won't find points. The 260Z has a Transistor Ignition Unit.

Mark, do you have a late 260Z? IIRC the safety requirement might have been a calendar year function and was already bypassed. If you look at the 1975 wiring diagram, it shows the seat belt interlock relay, though it wasn't implemented.

I was going to mention that as an example of how things could have been worse. Bruce, you need to come to the convention. You are someone I should meet.

It's all described in the FSM from pages 90 to 109. The "red button" is the emergency start button. With age it may be pink, white or crumbled to bits. It was a bypass in case the system didn't work properly. Mark - The seat belt interlock was a standard "safety" feature in all 1974 cars. IIRC, Ford designed a system and lobbied the NHTSA when the NHTSA was looking for a way to get more people to use seat belts. The NHTSA liked it and made it mandatory for 1974. Other automakers scrambled to comply with the new regulation with less than stellar results. People complained about having to buckle up groceries when they were placed on the passenger seat. Systems malfunctioned, leaving cars that wouldn't start. The requirement went away about as quickly as it was instituted, despite statistics showing that it increased seat belt usage. I first encountered the relay in 1975. My dad bought a 1974 Impala from a rental car company. It didn't take him too long before he defeated the seat belt interlock. Many other car owners defeated the interlock, too. Sometimes, though, you find the odd car where no one jumpered out the devil.

Are you buckling your seat belt when you're trying to start the car? The 74 had the nefarious seat belt interlock relay. Was it defeated properly? You post wasn't clear to me about what was going on. When you turn the key to Start, does the starter turn and do you have voltage to ground at the coil? If so, the seat belt interlock relay is not interfering. Just for grins, find the red button in the engine bay. It should be on the right fender for an early 260Z and possibly on the firewall for a late 260Z. Turn the key to ON, press the button, and try starting the car.

The bulb for the inspection lamp is a standard BA9 bulb. I managed to fit a 9-LED bulb in mine. The white bottle is a vacuum bottle for the HVAC controls.