SteveJ

Well this got me motivated. I have my ash tray soaking in Evapo-Rust as I type. There are some holes in it from rusting through. I'll probably try to solder them up. I'll post before & after pictures.

You would need to increase the gauge of the wiring throughout the circuit so you could increase the amperage of the fuses to prevent blowing the fuses on the inrush current. You would need better heat rejection, and you would probably burn out the filaments in the bulbs a lot faster. Auxiliary lights are a much better idea.

Fix it right.

Cliff, come out my way and bring your new toy. I'll help you figure out how to use it.

Dang, there went some more money.

And as I said before, without voltage on the green/white wire, you will not have lights. So what you need to do is figure out where the circuit has been interrupted. Look in the engine bay and under the dash. You will see non-factory relays. Extra wires around the headlights are a clue. At this point, I will assume the worst and say that someone hacked up the wiring harness. That is based on you saying that you experience intermittent functionality and that you have seen splices in the circuit. Until you confirm continutity between the green/white wire at the headlight switch and the end point in the body harness, you have not proven the splices do not relate to your problem. The headlights and taillights DO NOT share a circuit that is germane to this problem. The running lights on the front and rear DO share a circuit on the POSITIVE side, that being the green/white wire. It branches off in the dash harness. The front and rear running light circuits DO NOT share a ground. That is why there are two places marked "Earth Point" in the drawing I referred you to. At this point, I suggest you join the Z Club of Texas or the Cowtown Z Club and find out who is good with wiring. It is difficult to diagnose a hacked up harness online if the owner does not have good knowledge of electrical systems.

You aren't measuring power unless you are using a wattmeter. I asked you to measure voltage. If you don't have voltage on the body harness side of the connector, you won't have lights. That hints at dirty connections in your wiring if it is stock. Did someone convert the headlight circuits to use relays? Are there any signs of splices or other "modifications" in the wiring harness? You assume wrong. Look at the wiring diagram breakouts in the FSM. Also please answer the other questions I asked. They are intended to get pertinent information to solve your problem.

Look at page BE-14. Are the rear side markers lit? Remove the back panel. Are there signs of splices? Use a voltmeter and check for voltage to ground on the green/white wire.

Please clarify what circuit is not working. The following circuits go to the rear of the car: 1. Brake lights 2. Parking lights (aka running lights) 3. Turn signals 4. Reverse lights Also, if you download a copy of the FSM, in the BE section, you will find breakouts of each circuit. That will help with troubleshooting.

Depending upon the year, it could also be fusible links. Until the OP gives the proper information, it's just all speculation.

What year Z?

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catLatest.php That's the price for a reproduction...

http://www.vintageconnections.com/ShoppingCart.htm

Let me know if you're coming up to Road Atlanta anytime during the season.

That's more of why he needs to make the drive over to my house.

That looks to be a little below the acceptable range, voltage wise. It would be good to see the current flow, as well. That's where clamp on meters are nice.

Boots - http://zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php part WH-20 Mike doesn't take credit cards, though. Pay with a check. You'd have to expose the terminals some for me to suggest a source, though. I don't recall what they looked like from messing with them 3+ years ago.

What is the battery voltage at 2500 RPM? Internally or externally regulated alternator? You really need to come over. I have a clamp on ammeter that can give you a better idea of the draw. I have extra time off around the holidays.

It is a spindle. I didn't see any on ebay right now. You could buy it from ZCarSource.com, some other used parts place, or post on Facebook in Datsun parts & needs or 240Z 260Z 280Z lovers. Just be sure you get one for a 240Z or early 260Z.

And from the other side...

Have you ever tried installing the FAST catalog? You could get the part number from that. You'll need an XP system. I tried on a virtual machine once, but it didn't work for me.

The rebuilt 280ZX distributor that I just bought has a single port vacuum advance. I also have a vacuum advance sitting around in my garage for a ZX distributor that I could swear is a single port. Unfortunately when I checked Rockauto, they no longer list the vacuum advance in their inventory.

Find S30 closeouts by year: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/04/29/rockauto-closeout-parts/

Thank you for the link, Philip. I'll share it with the Z car community in Atlanta.

I found out that John Williams passed away today after a long illness. John was a long time Z car mechanic, racer & enthusiast. There are quite a few threads on this board talking about John or recommending him for Z maintenance in and round the Atlanta area. Not too long ago, some members of the Georgia Z Club got together to work on one of John's cars for him. Fortunately they got it finished in time for him to enjoy it some. John will be missed.