SteveJ

If you need an alternative, get a free flickr account. Put your pic there. That's where I host most of the pictures on my blogs, though I use a paid account to get more space.

I know the feeling concerning the envy. You have to be careful trying to keep up with some of the guys here unless you have a pretty good cash reserve.

You should have said 2+2 from the beginning. It looks like they changed after the 75 model year, as well. GLASS DOOR WINDOW RH 80312-N3700 - 7506 1 80312-N4520 7507 - 1 GLASS DOOR WINDOW LH 80313-N3700 - 7506 1 80313-N4520 7507 - 1

Yes, that is a good price on the horn pads. Keep the products coming online. If my wife ever finds a job, I'll have a better budget to buy parts.

From the parts manual: 13 GLASS-DOOR WINDOW RH 80311-E4101 - 7506 1 80311-N4500 7507 - 7607 1 80312-N4400 7608 - 1 14 GLASS-DOOR WINDOW LH 80312-E4101 - 7506 1 80312-N4500 7507 - 7607 1 80313-N4400 7608 - 1 From that I would say that they are different parts.

Well, there is this from Carl Beck's site: http://zhome.com/BRETotal/Tires/BajaTires.htm

Vredestein makes tires in the original stock size.

Yes, it is. For all sorts of documentation on the S30 cars (240Z, 260Z, and 280Z), go to http://www.xenonS30.com. There you will mind service manuals and owner manuals for these cars.

A blow dryer can help, too. Use it to warm up the vinyl. The cover will stretch a little better then.

I did wrap the headrest part in Saran Wrap before pulling the seat cover over it. That kept the top part of the foam in place nicely. I also used this type of pliers, http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-jaw-straight-sheet-metal-seamer-98728.html, to pull on the center flap in the seat bottom after I ran the wire through. I'm sure there are lots of other little tips & tricks around. I just like being able to do as much as possible on my own. It makes the car seem more like mine than when I pay someone to do it for me. Edit: Here's a link to the thread on recovering the seats: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44331-diy-how-to-recover-your-z-seats-lots-of-pictures/.

Be brave. There is at least one good write up here. I bet there are people close to you with spare hog rings. If not, I have a bunch. I used slip joint pliers and tongue & groove pliers to squeeze down the hog rings. I only lost one finger during the process, so it can't be THAT dangerous.

The seats aren't too bad to DIY. I've done a couple of sets myself. You can get foam and covers from Classic Datsun Motorsports.

Philip, don't start rumors, especially ones that aren't true. ::

Yeah, you need to pay me a visit. ::

Matt, if you're not working this weekend, feel free to bring it over to my place, and I'll see what I can do to help you.

No duct tape. Get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1157-2057-2357-Socket-Adapter-Harness-Wiring-For-Front-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulb-/191257441226?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c87d4f3ca&vxp=mtr And a couple of sets of weatherpack connectors: http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-Terminal-16-14/dp/B004E4RNBW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417634611&sr=8-2&keywords=weatherpack+3+pin Much cleaner

Drive it over here and I can wire in a replacement socket until you get a real replacement.

I bought similar lights from another person in the Far East. They are the same size as stock. You will want to waterproof the backs.

I knew I could count on you, Bruce. Make a video of it.

Of course, I just want to see it so I can take it apart. Hey, Bruce, make your way over to his place and grab that part.

Let me know if you need a third hand. I may be able to squeeze some time in on the weekends to help. Plus, if I drive the Z, it gives you a reference if you have any questions on assembly.

You may be able to download a manual: http://manualocean.com/dive~sun-1500-engine-analyzer-manual.pdf

I believe Zed Head is correct. Look at part 18 in this link: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/Meters/tabid/1664/Default.aspx. Where exactly did your friend find this part?

Thanks for posting a picture. It's a BA7 bulb. Here's a source: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led/10/#/attributes/16.

My previous post was a little premature. I played with the timing some tonight and went to re-tune the carburetors after dropping the timing down. The rear carburetor was weak again. Following Mr. Warner & Mr. Pilgrim's suggestion, I attack the rear carburetor with starting fluid and heard the RPMs increase when I sprayed around the insulator between the manifold and carburetor. All four nuts were loose. I tightened the nuts and finished adjusting the carburetors. The rear behaved much better.