SteveJ

If I can remember, I'll look at my 73. It's actually pretty easy to wire in.

Are you using a lead substitute? Look at the picture of the MMT fouled plug: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/spark/plugs.htm.

As a matter of fact, in both of the links I provided in #2, it describes what you should see in testing the components with a VOM. Repair without proper testing is just guessing.

Thanks, Guy. After I get a scissor lift, I plan on replacing the rear bumper. I figure it will be easier to drop the tank that way.

I took the 260Z out to Caffeine & Octane today. The people running the show love having the old Z cars in attendance. Unfortunately the perceived cold weather kept some away. The rest of today's pictures are at https://stevescartography.wordpress.com/2015/02/01/caffeine-and-octane-feb-2015-new-location-101-photos/.

There is that possibility. While I have a 73 dash harness in my garage, I've never done a comparison against the wiring drawing to look for errors. Knowing that several of us on this site have found errors in the 280Z wiring drawings, there could be some omissions & errors in the 72 FSM wiring drawing.

For the flasher circuit, if you want to put it back to stock, see https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ I don't see anything in the wiring diagram that would indicate a blue wire spliced into a red wire, or vice versa. Can you locate connectors that have these wires? (An ohmmeter or cable toner could help in cases like this.) The spiral stripe on the red/blue wire makes me suspect it is not stock either. Unfortunately, I think you have your work cut out for you.

Classifieds shows up on the left-hand column with Windows based browsers. I think it did the same on my tablet, as well. You can always access it by the URL: http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/.

I found this in a craigslist search for Datsun: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/4864591925.html I'm not really sure I'd call it a Dune Buggy, though.

The 240Z was pushed by the Japanese government as a way to deal with the fall out of the Tet Offensive.

Happy to see the bright lights.

Are you sure it's not the switch itself?

There is a black wire going to each socket. Check the resistance from that wire to ground. It's always good to check the reading of your meter with the leads touching each other first. That gives you the resistance in your meter. Your reading on each socket should be pretty low.

That's about what it would have cost for me to send one ball bearing to you. Are you sure you don't have a grounding issue? Measure resistance to ground on each side. They should be about the same.

Yes, that was an interesting work around to say the least. ::

If the 72 has decent carburetors, swap them over to the 71.

The dash & engine wiring harnesses are a write-off. I helped Charles with replacing the battery, but the starter was on it's last legs. He got it to fire a couple of times briefly, but it wouldn't stay running. Let me know what parts you won't need off of the 72. I might be interested in some. If you're on Facebook, track down the Georgia Z Club & Georgia Datsun Owners groups. There are quite a few good S30 owners in Georgia.

I know this car. I hope you have plenty of time, patience & money. Did you try to get that parts car in Dawsonville, too, or do you have another parts car? Where in GA are you?

Grease - Purple Power Rust - Evapo Rust

The gallery pictures do not have the right detail. Look at http://www.zhome.com/Buying/1stGenWhatToWatch.html and http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm and take pictures of the areas described.

So, am I correct in thinking it was a polarity issue with the LED bulb?

Very true, Dennis. In California & Arizona, a "rust-free" example not running is worth far less than a similar car in the East or Mid-West.

What is the VIN on the firewall? You need to post pictures, especially of underneath the car to get more than wild guesses. Running will increase the value, as well as fixing the known issues. (I state it only because it's not obvious to some people.) I have a guide to repairing the turn signal switch on my blog. I also have a detailed write-up on the entire circuit there. I would inspect the master cylinder and brake booster for the leaking, especially if there isn't a puddle of brake fluid underneath the car. For the lack of fuel, try replacing the fuel filter and blowing out the line to back to the tank with some compressed air. Keep the pressure low on the compressed air. It shouldn't take too much effort.

My first guess is there is something wrong between the ignition switch when it's in the ON position and the coil. The emphasis is on the ballast resistor. If you know how to use an ohmmeter, take the wires off of the resistor and measure. When the key is in the START position, you bypass the ballast resistor.