SteveJ

I know this car. I hope you have plenty of time, patience & money. Did you try to get that parts car in Dawsonville, too, or do you have another parts car? Where in GA are you?

Grease - Purple Power Rust - Evapo Rust

The gallery pictures do not have the right detail. Look at http://www.zhome.com/Buying/1stGenWhatToWatch.html and http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm and take pictures of the areas described.

So, am I correct in thinking it was a polarity issue with the LED bulb?

Very true, Dennis. In California & Arizona, a "rust-free" example not running is worth far less than a similar car in the East or Mid-West.

What is the VIN on the firewall? You need to post pictures, especially of underneath the car to get more than wild guesses. Running will increase the value, as well as fixing the known issues. (I state it only because it's not obvious to some people.) I have a guide to repairing the turn signal switch on my blog. I also have a detailed write-up on the entire circuit there. I would inspect the master cylinder and brake booster for the leaking, especially if there isn't a puddle of brake fluid underneath the car. For the lack of fuel, try replacing the fuel filter and blowing out the line to back to the tank with some compressed air. Keep the pressure low on the compressed air. It shouldn't take too much effort.

My first guess is there is something wrong between the ignition switch when it's in the ON position and the coil. The emphasis is on the ballast resistor. If you know how to use an ohmmeter, take the wires off of the resistor and measure. When the key is in the START position, you bypass the ballast resistor.

Chet Wittel was talking about this video today. The car making the pass in the grass was piloted by John Williams. Chet said John's crew told him it was the last lap before it was the last lap.

I took my Z to the memorial service for John Williams today.

I just remembered something. If your rheostat is turned some, your LED lights may not come on. D'oh! If your rheostat is turned to all of the way bright then follow the directions below. Stop and investigate for any failures. Disconnect the Combo switch and unplug your gauges from the dash harness. First, check to make sure you have 12 VDC to ground on the GL wire in the dash harness at the Combo switch. Next, check for continuity (<1 ohm) between the GL and GW wires on the Combo switch. After that you can plug in the Combo switch and go to all of the dash harness connectors for the gauges and check for 12VDC to ground at the GW wire. Disconnect the Combo switch again. Check for continuity (<1 ohm) between the RL wires and ground. If the resistance is high, it may be the rheostat.