SteveJ

Do you have the old bulbs in hand? If so, I could probably tell you the type. Could they be 194s?

So, here's the update. I replaced the plug wires last night and ran the engine today. I found the rear carburetor wasn't pulling as much air, so I increased the air flow to match the front. I did a test that Philip showed me that he called the "equally $h!++y test" and found the rear carburetor was pulling its own.

Sure, mention that AFTER I tell my wife that we need to cut back on spending.

Yeah, I wouldn't turn that down. How difficult was it to get it delivered to your house?

I have a set of the taller Race Ramps with the detachable ramps. They are very nice to use and don't slip easily with the Z even though I have a painted garage floor. However, if you need to lift your car to do the brakes, I think a scissor lift would be much better.

If you're on Facebook, look up the Georgia Z Club and like the page. I can get your pictures posted there. Also join Georgia Datsun Owners. The user here that goes by the name of Metalmonkey47 (http://www.classiczcars.com/user/29114-metalmonkey47/) is an admin for that page and can get your membership approved. That can give your car some good exposure.

I would expect different compositions of long-chain hydrocarbons & aromatics between regular and premium, so I wouldn't be surprised by differing smells.

Now, have you been able to find the inline fuse? It may be that you need a female connector with the inline fuse to connect these two wires. I haven't ever traced out the actual wires myself, though. It doesn't show that connector in the 71 supplement, either. You can probably get the correct female connector from Vintage Connections.

I don't have a spare, but as I offered before, you are free to come over and take measurements. Someone somewhere has a fastener that would work.

Yeah, Philip was showing me that on Saturday.

The black/white wire should have 12 VDC when the ignition is in the RUN/ON position. If it is not connected to the green wire in any way, you won't get power to the fuel pump. Can you post a picture?

I would be surprised if either one, especially the STE, claimed factory calibration. I'm happy getting consistent readings from the STE. So, are you going to take the EMPI to a calibration lab?

Did you do before & after measurements, Cliff? I'd be curious about how far out of adjustment yours got to be.

I'll let people like Alan & Carl speak up about why the fuel pump wiring is present without a fuel pump. What are the colors on the connector by the radio?

I should add that you might consider adding an inertia switch to the circuit for safety. You can find them on ebay.

In two wiring diagrams I looked at (the one in the 1971 supplement PDF and the 1972 BE section), the wire to the fuel pump is a green wire. It should go to a 20 A inline fuse. The upstream side of the fuse comes off of the ignition switch when it is in the ON position. I don't know why you don't think you have access to the PDFs I am looking at. They are available at XenonS30 (link below).

I don't recall spraying the starting fluid around the rear carburetor. I did the spraying around the front carb before Philip did the valve adjustment. I'll take some contact cleaner to the timing light, too.

Sounds like a good idea. I'll try that on Wednesday.

Also, didn't we leave the timing on my car at about 32 degrees? I am going to order the proper hoses to go from the bowls to the nozzles. It's easier to diagnose problems when the proper parts are in place first.

Philip, aka Blue, came by the house to visit today since he's in town on business. We worked on setting the needles and balancing the SUs on the 260Z and found that the valves were in BAD need of adjustment. When compression in some cylinders increase by over 50%, the valves are in BAD need of adjustment. Philip spend a lot of time playing "Ask for the tool Steve doesn't have." Fortunately, I was able to dig up everything but the remote starter. Then again, I wasn't crazy about my remote starter when I used it in the past. The 260Z is running a lot better now, thanks to Philip. He is a credit to the Z car community. EDIT: I forgot to add early on we took the Z out to warm it up and get lunch. I couldn't pass up the chance to take him over to the Dawsonville City Hall & Georgia Racing Hall of Fame (same building).

Ernest, you might want to contact the Upstate Z Club to see if anybody there might be interested in the left-overs. Also, let me know what you have. I haven't been up to Greenwood in a few years.

Hmm, I was browsing the pictures associated with the Rising Sons article, and I noticed one of the comments made on May 6, 2014, was from a Bryan P. from Virginia, followed by one from a Carl B. from Clearwater, FL. Perhaps Bryan already knew about this article. In the links, I found this series of articles where they drove a Jensen Interceptor and 280Z on a road trip. http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2012/04/29/Phoenix-to-Flagstaff Some others (mostly reader rides type articles) http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/07/11/The-first-car-I-dreamed-of-having-was-A-Datsun-240Z-20140711103708 http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2006/07/12/1973-Datsun-240Z-Race-Car http://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/Articles/2013/11/20/Japan-FTW http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/07/11/Wasn39t-meant-to-be20140711103102 (tear jerker) http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/06/20/Loss-leads-to-love20140620115611 http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/02/15/Unintended-Forever-Car20140215010649 http://www.hagerty.com/yourstories/2014/07/18/Yes-Dear20140718074918 (nice chuckle)

14 AWG is quite adequate. A 10 foot run of 14 AWG to the headlights would have a voltage drop of about 0.25VDC. Going up to 10 AWG gives you a drop of 0.100VDC.

Unless you are using 10 AWG wire, use a 10 A fuse.

While some of the advice you get here may be accurate, I would consult a lawyer in your own country. You are leaving out many details that would influence true legal advice.