SteveJ

I bought a couple from SuperbrightLEDs and some from eBay.

The dome light is greatly improved with a 9 or 12 LED festoon bulb.

I went with the two piece Race Ramps. Amazon.com: Race Ramps RR-XT-2 67-Inch XT 2-Piece Race Ramp: Race Ramps: Automotive No they aren't the cheapest, but they don't slide, even on my epoxy painted garage floor.

Oh come on. EVERYBODY knows that the Nissan engineers added a lot of extra parts in the car for no reason...

They are on my roundtuit list. I haven't even installed them, yet.

You don't have a second set of ears on your legs? What kind of freak are you? You might consider getting the ones in the link I provided and using heat to point them upward some. It might work.

Are you talking about something like this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/41202-low-profile-kick-panel-speaker-pods-now-available.html?

I don't know anything about the fit & quality... Stagg 4 Shocks Springs That Fits 1970 to 1973 240Z Early 1974 260z | eBay

Unfortunately, Courtesy Nissan's parts website says 17208-N4700 is NLA. You'll have to go with some aftermarket or used part source.

Go through the diagnostics in the fuel injection reference manual: XenonS130 - S130 Reference

Thanks, Wayne. I had to add Eagle Day to my favorites.

I'm looking forward to getting the rear bumper mounted on the 260Z. I have to burn off enough gas to drop the tank in order to get to the existing mounts. It's such a sacrifice to have to drive it extra, but I will do it.

The 240Z has front disc/rear drum brakes. You'll find that on 260Zs and 280Zs, too. The 280ZX (similar styling but a different car) was available with front/rear disc brakes. I'm not sure what you are referring to by "a little improvement on rust protection". Start by doing more research. the Z Car Home Page is a good place to start. Even the wikipedia entries on the different Z cars can give you a start. As for the AC, the 240Zs (and some 260Zs and 280Zs) had aftermarket AC systems that were not the most efficient in cooling down the interiors. Typically if you find a 280ZX with AC, it was probably factory. If you consider the AC weak, it should be evaluated by a trained mechanic. It could be low on freon, or it could have been put through a poor conversion to R134a. As for interior parts, sure they are available. How much do you want to pay? I have over $400 in the seats in each of my cars with me doing the labor for the upholstery. As for the bumpers, there's a thread I commented on recently. You can replace the 280Z & 260Z bumpers with earlier bumpers, but unless you recycle some 70-72 bumpers, it's expensive ($1200) for steel. Also, you have to do some fabrication work (documented in that thread). Before starting out, establish your budget. Then there's a good chance you'll need to double it, depending on how nice you want your car to be. Spend the money up front to buy the nicest car possible. That way, the previous owner spent all of his money to make it look nice.

It looks nicely priced for that condition and location.

Many of the vent hoses are NLA, therefore, you are stuck looking for multiple vendors. What year Z are you looking to fix up? You should put the year of your car in your posts or signature to get more specific replies to your inquiries.

Harrington Group gives good service and delivers quickly on top of having a very good product. The bumpers may outlast the rest of my cars.

I have the Harrington Group bumpers. They are really nice. What about Black Dragon? They still have the front & rear bumpers listed. $700 for a set. Here are links to show you what the Harrington Group bumpers look like (with rubber strips): New Bumpers | Fiddling With Z Cars Rear Bumper Install ? 73 240Z | Fiddling With Z Cars Installing the Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars And here's the front on the 260Z: 260Z Air Dam and Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars

Why do you want to delete the mechanical fuel pump? Why would you need a fuel pressure regulator? Are you planning on installing an aftermarket fuel pump? Usually people delete the electric fuel pump after converting to an internally regulated alternator since the power for the fuel pump relay coil comes from between the alternator and the regulator.

Use a can of dusting air. When the car has trouble running/starting, hold the can upside down and spray the Transistor Ignition Unit. That will cool it down quickly. Also, you can replace the TIU with a GM HEI unit. I think Chas, aka Eurodat, has a thread where he was mounting the HEI inside the TIU.

The Georgia Z Club did a group trip to the micro car museum a couple of years ago. I didn't go with them. I don't remember anybody mentioning a Z car on display. It must have been kept elsewhere.

I'm curious. How did you determine that the vacuum lines were unnecessary?

I'm not sure to whom you refer when you say "they". Enrique glued on the rubber piece, and I did the same. All you have to do is find some rubber tubing, cut off a little piece, trim it to fit, and glue it on. Wait a few hours and enjoy the decreased effort to close doors.

Does the first picture in post #9 not help? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/37755-door-wont-lock.html

How about Vintage Connections? OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha Sorry, I missed where you said you already tried vintage connections. The next choice is Digikey. Invalid Request

Bruce, is this what you're looking for? Datsun 280Z Electric Unit & Switch (1) (From Dec.-'74)