SteveJ

How about Vintage Connections? OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha Sorry, I missed where you said you already tried vintage connections. The next choice is Digikey. Invalid Request

Bruce, is this what you're looking for? Datsun 280Z Electric Unit & Switch (1) (From Dec.-'74)

I used Chevette springs cut to size and KYB struts all around. It firmed up the ride and got rid of the bang from the bumps. That's the budget build. Of course, I would only do this if you are mechanically inclined.

PM sent.

You could always buy a working one from me or Dave Irwin.

You might want to look for a source closer than Australia.

There was an earlier thread on this one when it first hit CL.

I was keeping my mouth shut (fingers off the keyboard?) until I was fairly sure. I think the switch you bought is for a ZX. I'm not completely sure about the cross compatibility. I have one sitting around at home along with a Beck-Arnley S30 style switch (Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 201-1179 Key, Lock And Ignition Switch Assembly: Automotive). I haven't tested the style you put in your Z, but I know the Beck-Arnley part works fine since I have it in my 260Z.

1. Do you have a fusible link coming off of the starter and going into the main harness? 2. How long have you owned the car? 3. Did you or a previous owner make any other changes to the electrical system such as replacing the alternator? (I saw the "new" regulator was installed.) 4. Why did you change the voltage regulator 3 months ago? 5. Have you tested your alternator? The multiple system failures (lights, stereo, buzzer, etc.) lend belief that the voltage may have been too high. Corrosion in cables, mixed with higher voltage can create hot-spots, as well. Having an external regulator with an internally regulated alternator can cause problems with voltage regulation.

I know someone in the Atlanta who might be interested. PM me.

Yep. That's the part. I was just too lazy to search for it for my original post. As a matter of fact, Phil, I think you posted that solution in one or more of the threads I have read addressing this problem.

That's only because I spend too much time reading threads here and over at Zcar.com. There have been many similar threads over the past 18 or so years.

Yeah, those switches can show their age after 40+ years. It was just worn out.

Let me google that for you By the way, S130 denotes the platform used for the 280ZX, marketed in the 1979 though 1983 model years. The 1978 model year car was a 280Z, which was based on the S30 platform.

Let me google that for you

Swap to early style fiberglass bumpers, ditching the stock bumper brackets. You'll have to fabricate brackets for the bumpers. Here's a link to how I did it for stainless steel bumpers: 260Z Air Dam and Front Bumper | Fiddling With Z Cars Swap to carbon fiber hood and hatch. Ditch the spare tire.

The electrical pump doesn't pump at the start. No. Yes. Remember, the mechanical pump is the primary pump. The electrical pump was integrated in to deal with issues associated with the flat top carburetors.

I don't think I would look that good in that T-shirt. Does it come in 2XL?

It's probably the same. I have a couple of sets of the Blackdragon squeeges waiting for me to get around to installing them. They look fine to me.

Relay A is energized by a wire between the alternator and regulator. When the engine is running, the alternator is turning, and the coil is powered. When the contacts for Relay A closed, Relay B's coil is energized. If someone removed the harness that energized Relay A, Relay B will never get power on the coil. This might be the case if someone converted the alternator to an internally regulated unit and removed the voltage regulator. After that conversion, Relay A will always be energized unless the harness for Relay A is removed. That will run down the battery. Been there. Done that. Got the t-shirt.

Even cheaper and should work with incandescents: http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-232-RP-Heavy-Duty-Electronic/dp/B009WQP4MW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410317735&sr=8-2&keywords=bussman+232

This is what I'm using (See post #51.) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/40600-sold-leds.html#post406757 To clarify, I'm using the EP34. You have to run a ground wire for it to work, though. That's no big deal.

That movie was during the 60s, too.

Now that I thought about it for a moment, it was quite possible that an idiot mechanic jumpered wires between the front and rear at the turn signal switch. Read this on repairing the turn signal switch: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars

I wonder where that came from. It looks like a 280Z, but the series stopped airing first-run shows in 68.