SteveJ

You are going to be at C&O in two weeks, right?

Yes, the bumper. The 260Z had bumpers a little larger than the 240Z, and it was further away from the body than the 240Z bumpers. To cover up the indentations in the body where the 240Z bumpers conformed, the US cars got the black rubber behind the bumper. You might be able to see it a little in my avatar.

That looks really good.

I found some non-detergent 30W in Wal-mart a few years back.

You're welcome, Cliff.

Those plugs look pretty good to me. I can't recall, what do the fuel injection bible & FSM say about the fuel pressure range?

I got the air cleaner back from the powder coaters for the 260Z. I'll also be getting new vacuum hoses for the brakes today and a urethane air dam tomorrow. This is going to be a fun weekend. By the way, Guy, how much horsepower will this add?

ebay 240z wiper | eBay

Welcome. Feel free to drop by the Georgia Z Club page on Facebook. You can find it by the Georgia Z Club link in my signature. Most of us are in the Atlanta area, but there are a few active members scattered around south of the city. Also, consider coming out to Z Nationals (2014 Z Nationals Information). It's one of the bigger Z car gatherings in the Southeast.

The Ford GT40 was only 40 inches tall. I'm not sure if that included the Gurney hump. The newer car was the Ford GT since Ford could not secure the rights to GT40. Anyway, the newer car was more than 40 inches tall.

Model specific list: Rockauto Closeout Parts | Fiddling With Z Cars

A link to the auction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-series-1-AWESOME-240Z-240-z-RUST-FREE-RARE-JDM-Classic-Collector-EXCELLENT-/161363819968?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2592087dc0&item=161363819968&pt=US_Cars_Trucks Either it's a garbage bid (only 33 feedbacks) or someone REALLY wants a 70 in the worst way.

Interesting concept.

You could jumper off the red wire on the reverse switch. I would install a 5A inline fuse for it to make sure you don't take out other systems in the event of a short circuit.

Since there is no electric choke in a stock Z car, could you give us some idea of what you think is an electric choke? When you are posting for help, it is good to include information on your car such as year and modifications.

I tried my hand at cleaning up the intake. This is what it looked like before. I cleaned it with degreaser and rinsed with denatured alcohol. (If I remember my chemistry correctly, the ethyl alcohol with mix well with any remaining water and help the water evaporate.) Then I cleaned it with brake cleaner and a brass brush. I followed that with the redneck blasting cabinet and soda blasting. As Cliff mentioned, it takes a fair amount of baking soda, and it won't blast off too much. I had to scrape off some of the excess grease with a razor scraper and picks. I followed that with some more brake cleaner and steel brush. Then finished with more blasting. I use a brass wheel on the balance tube and blasted some of the other parts. I rinsed all of the parts with water and sprayed again with denatured alcohol to remove the water quickly.

I've used up my "while I'm at it budget."

I already have an MSA coated 6 to 1 waiting to go in.

Don't be too surprised. I am going to try the SUs on the 260Z when I put it back together.

I pulled off the intake and exhaust on the 260Z today. After I pulled off the carburetors, I noticed this... I knew I had an exhaust leak. I just didn't know the manifold was trying to snap in half. I took my time and got the intake and exhaust taken off. The flash of the camera really emphasizes the magnitude of the leak. After that I got the materials to make my redneck soda blasting cabinet. I'll let you guys know how it works out.

The switch is not operated by pushing it outward. It works by pulling it back toward the driver and releasing it after pulling back all of the way. There should be a click when it cycles between high and low.

Here's a crude drawing I made many years ago...

If your wiring is stock, here is how the circuit goes: 1. From the positive terminal, the circuit goes through the fusible link and up to the white/red wire and on to the combo switch. 2. When the switch is on the headlight position, the circuit is closed to the red wire that goes down to the fuse box. 3. At the fuse box, the red wire splits to the left and right fuses where it comes out as red/yellow (left) and red (right) and goes out to the headlights. 4. The circuits go through the headlights and come out as red/white (high) and red/black (low). The wires from the headlights merge and go back to the turn signal side of the switch. 5. The high/low beam switch will change which wire (r/b or r/w) is in contact with ground. The FSM has a clear diagram on page BE-9 So if your low beams are not working, it is likely that there is a problem on the turn signal side of the switch. Moving the high/low beam switch will not affect the connection between the white/red and red wires. You may be using poor technique to measure voltage.

Matt, before you pay $9 for 10, look at this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/42851-fasteners-trim-panels.html And they are still available: 50 FORD FENDER SHIELD PUSH TYPE RETAINERS OEM 387843-S on eBay!

Not easily. The sending unit changes resistance according to temperature. The thermostat for the fans is more of an on/off switch. If you did manage to find a way, it would probably adversely affect the reading on the temperature gauge.