SteveJ

It's from the factory. If you crimp it properly, it can last for over 50 years. 😉

No. But a 75 or 76 door would probably work.

I've also done custom relay installations where you can't even see the relays. That's nice for people who want to minimize the visibility of modifications. Anyway, the non-polarity dependent bulbs are great for 260Z and 280Z owners since more modifications would be necessary to get the relays to work.

Polarity isn't important if you use H4 housings with these H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

Holy crap! Now the Bosch relay is out of stock everywhere!

The SKP alternator for the 4 cylinder Frontier has the correct pulley. All of those that I have installed worked just fine.

All of the details are in post #4 in this thread.

The only modifications I needed to make were wiring related. I had to put a bigger ring on the wire for the B terminal. I put a 2 pin connector on the pigtail for the Frontier alternator to connect the S & L wires, and I had to de-pin 4 wires from the VR connector (only needed for 74-77) to jumper the wires for the S & L terminals. Oh, I did need a longer bolt for the front alternator mount for some reason. Otherwise, it fits like a glove.

Hijack attempt! I swapped in the Frontier alternator into a friend's 77 this morning. Here's the jumper I made at the voltage regulator using a 4-pin Yazaki connector I purchased from Eastern Beaver. It's a nice water-resistant connector, and it's period appropriate. If he ever decides to go back to original, I can reverse the work, too.

So what is the voltage at those two points?

Just to be clear, you have to alter the wiring so that you have this: That is usually accomplished by jumpering the WB to BW at the voltage regulator and jumpering the Y to WR at the voltage regulator. Those are the voltage measurements we have been talking about.

What white/red isn't connected? A photo or two would help. If your alternator isn't getting the sense voltage it would overcharge, just as @Captain Obvious said.

The gasket didn't change the horn sound that I could tell.

What I did for the paper gasket was take some card stock and cut it to the appropriate diameters. After punching the holes, I sprayed both sides with a few layers of plasti-dip.

Look at reply 17 - https://www.zcar.com/threads/transistor-ignition-unit.424466/#post-2798228

I don't know if the old Yazaki connectors are available anywhere. Even my good friend, Google, is stumped. The Yazaki connectors that are available aren't the same type. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html This one may work for the 2 pin connector: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/2W-YAM-RD125-MAL-CONN https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/2W-YAM-RD125-FEM-CONN 6 pin: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/6W-YAM-ML-CONN 4 pin: https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/4W-YAM-MAL-RD-YPC https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/4W-YAM-FEM-RD-YPC It's not easy finding those parts.

Does that mean we're going to see a photo of a broken shaft?

The best way to reduce heat in the parking light and headlight circuits is to use LEDs. For the other circuits, look at the ones using 20A fuses. (76 fuse box as an example) If you keep the same placement, note how close those 3 are together.

So I'm guessing that is for a 280Z. I suggest you consider subjecting it to some thermal testing, considering that some of those circuits can pull some current, such as the parking lights and headlights. It's not fun to find that your fuse box has melted down. Been there, done that with the stock 240Z fuse box.

Gateway Classic Cars of Atlanta was holding its monthly Caffeine and Chrome meet today, and the Georgia Z Club was the featured club this month. While Gateway gives the featured clubs money based on the car count (up to $200), we decided to donate the money to Toys for Tots. With the great weather and spirit of showing up to get money for Toys for Tots, we had plenty of Z cars show up, with every generation represented. We don't get that too often.

Yes, the plan is to make a harness go to between the factory harness and the amplifier.

It doesn't have to be an improvement. It just has to work. I know of at least 3 Z cars in my area that are having problems because the amplifier failed. Since the original is NLA, if I can get this to work, people will have functional wipers. I have looked at other intermittent relays, but this will probably be the best way to work with existing wiring.

Can anybody guess what I'm about to try?

Thanks for the document. It's a good reference. Keep going with the updates!

Based on your photos, I concur with your assessment. With Relay A gone, you have no problem with the alternator upgrade.