SteveJ

I went out to Road Atlanta again for Day 2 of The Mitty: The Mitty 2014 ? Day 2 (208 Pictures) | Steve's CARtography I also felt that 2.5 coils cut from the Chevette springs was too much. I had another set available, so I only cut one coil. I still need to bleed the brakes, so I don't know how it's sitting, yet.

I took the 260Z to Road Atlanta today to enjoy the Mitty (The Mitty 2014 ? Day 1 (278 pictures) | Steve's CARtography). I also changed the front brake hydraulic hoses because the brakes were pulling to the right. I thought the driver side hose may have been stretched when the caliper fell from its perch while I was working on it. The pulling was gone when I did the test drive.

True. The OP hasn't dropped in for a visit in over 6 years.

That Atlanta 280Z was posted locally for a while. If he had realistic expectations, maybe he could sell it.

28911-89913 is a Seat Belt Warning Timer. I don't think that is the precise culprit, though you could have been moving a ground or other connection elsewhere.

Search here for "reaction disk". You'll find a lot of good information.

I love a happy ending with Z car stories.

That just looks too clean to be a Z.

First guess - Bad accessory relay.

GRM came through with free infield parking for the car corrals. As I said before, if you're going, send me a PM for details.

A month after putting Chevette springs on the front, I finally got around to installing them on the rears on the 260Z. I cut 3 coils from the springs for the front and 2.5 for the rear. I installed them with KYB Excel struts. Cornering is so much flatter than with the 40 year old springs. The tire rub on the left rear is gone. Compared to how it was, it feels like a slot car. Meanwhile, it still appears to have a stock stance. Thank you to John Coffey, Phil, and all of the others here and at Hybridz for experimenting and posting the results. So far this appears to be a great cost-effective upgrade.

Now is sounds like junk in your fuel system. I know there have been threads with similar symptoms. I just can't remember where the problem tends to be. By the way for the tester, the brightness will indicate spark quality.

Check the quality of the ground for the ignition unit. Is it touching bare metal? When the stalling happens, are the plugs wet? What is the color of the plugs? Pictures help. As for the quality of the spark, get an inline spark tester (Amazon.com: Fool-proof Engine Ignition Spark Tester: Automotive).

I would agree with Phil. What kind of electronic ignition is in your car?

I use a dual relay socket, two SPDT relays, one ring lug and a 6 pin connector. The wiring diagram is on this site. You just have to search for it. If you're in a hurry to get the car going, I could have one in the mail to you tomorrow. I have all the parts.

Do you store your car outside? It sounds like you have a leak around your windshield. Anyway, I would expect that you'll hear back from Courtesy that the ignition relay is NLA. If that happens, send me a PM. I can make a replacement for you.

You can put the 77 distributor on the 72, but you'll need an HEI or something like it to trigger the spark.

If you kill the next, I do have a spare 240Z speedometer.

Check the voltage from the positive side of the coil to ground while having someone turn on the lights, etc. I imagine your voltage is dropping too low. It should be around 9 VDC. How old is the battery? I think Captain Obvious had some good write-ups on checking the float bowls. If those run dry, you have to crank the car to get enough fuel back into them.

Get up with me about the wiper linkages. I'll show you what to look out for so you don't make the same mistakes I did.

I see you found your way over here, Matt. Did you get the electrical gremlins worked out? By the way guys, he's not joking about the price he paid for it.

The 2014 Mitty is just around the corner. I've arranged for a car corral for Z cars at the event. If you live in the Southeast and don't know about the Mitty, check out these links: 2014 Speedfest at the Classic Motorsports Mitty: Classic Motorsports The Mitty | Steve's CARtography (There are a lot of pictures here. It will take a while to load them.) If you want to join us at the car corral, send me a PM.

Actually, I'm going to adapt my gauges to accept low profile wedge LED bulbs using these (10 Pcs Heavy Duty T10 168 194 2825 Wiring Harness Sockets Pre Wired | eBay) and these (Amazon.com: Jtech 10x T10 8-SMD Green LED Car Lights Bulb W5W, 147, 152, 158, 159, 161, 168, 184, 192, 193, 194 2825: Automotive). Here's a picture of the test fitting on a spare speedometer I had lying around.

There. I fixed it for you. I think the money depends upon the customer. I've seen plenty of posts that say the 72 is preferred because of the maturity of the platform. I think it's more of personal preference than any strong market forces. Of course, Carl Beck might have an informed opinion on this (as opposed to my relatively uniformed opinion). What is the date on the door plate? Is it still around?

It may just need a new solenoid. Another possibility is that there is enough corrosion in the wiring that the voltage getting to the solenoid isn't always high enough to get it to engage.