SteveJ

My last purchase from SuperbrightLEDs included some of these: 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED w/ Reflector Lens | S series | Specialty & Automotive | Universal LED Bulb Finder | Super Bright LEDs They are rated at 105 lumens. I felt they were reasonably priced, and they seem to provide good light. For the single element sockets, a bulb like this: 1156 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED w/ Reflector Lens | S series | Specialty & Automotive | Universal LED Bulb Finder | Super Bright LEDs may work well. They are 100 lumens I think those bulbs could be too tall for the side markers, though. Mind you, light output is proportional to voltage. Buying and installing the harness upgrades that Dave Irwin mentioned earlier can improve light output.

Why are you worried about having them too bright? What is too bright?

Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars If it's two out of three bulbs on the right, it's likely to be grounding issues. You can unplug the connector on the light and check the wiring harness to ground. Use the drawing in the link above to find the ground wire. I see that I need to revise it to include the turn signal indicators in the tach. The socket for the right turn signal indicator may not be seated properly.

I think he's talking about the wipers parking in the up position.

So did you sell off your collection of Celicas?

Here's a link to the file if you want it. http://xenons30.com/files/1973%20240z%201974%20260z%20fuel%20system%20modifications.pdf

Nothing. It wasn't a Nissan design.

I used them in the tach, clock, and ammeter/fuel gauge so far. I've been too lazy to change out the others. I'd have to search my garage for the others. Unfortunately I won't be able to do that for a couple of days.

SuperbrightLEDs.com has a nice selection of BA9 bulbs. They also have dimensions for the bulbs to make sure they fit. I put some in my 260Z and was pleased with the results.

The yellow wire is also the power for one of the coils for the electric fuel pump. Leaving that relay in will cause a battery drain if you go to an internally regulated alternator.

Send a PM to Zs-ondabrain, aka Dave Irwin. He might have a good hazard switch. I know he wouldn't sell you a bad one. They can also be cleaned up. This is what I did with an early style hazard switch: Early Hazard Switch | Fiddling With Z Cars

Not necessarily. Sometimes there is corrosion in the light sockets themselves. If the corrosion bridges the gap between the positive and negative, it will act similar to a short. Also look for splices in the wiring where you or a previous owner added something. To get a better handle where the issue resides, use the FSM. Go to the BE section. You want pages BE-15 and BE-17. 1. Remove the fuse. It is the 20A fuse in the top right slot. You will need a way to test for a short. Method 1: Use an ohmmeter to measure from the right fuse clip to ground. Method 2: Use a test light in place of the fuse. When the light is on, you have a short. 2. Turn on the lights to the running light position. 3. Use Method 1 or 2 to see if there is a short. 4. If so, disconnect connector C3. 5. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C3 and the taillights or radio or heater control panel light or hazard switch illumination light or automatic transmission indicator light. (Note: if there is still a short, we haven't eliminated those circuits. We will confirm later.) 6. If there is still a short, disconnect connector C5. 7. Measure for a short. If there is no short, the problem is between connector C5 and the front marker lights/turn signals. 8. If there is still a short, it is between the switch and the dash lights. 9. If there is no short in step 8, reconnect C3 and retest to make sure you don't have two branches with short circuits. Let us know what the results are with steps 3, 5, 7, and 9. Then I can give you more diagnostics.

Look at the first generation Nissan Slyvia, then look at the concept cars.

But do they turn in the same direction?

Well, at least use your daily driver to come visit us at C&O tomorrow.

Mike, the user edesonwright is a spammer, too. I'm not sure whether or not it's a bot.

You are on the right track. Are the wires for the buzzer in the steering column connected together or are they connected to the ignition switch?

Okay, those are all different circuits, powered off of different fuses from the turn signals and hazard lights. That description doesn't really tell us what you found. Use the attached copy of BE-10 to follow along with what I wrote below. 1. With the hazard switch unplugged, you had 12 VDC to ground on the green wire? (If not, check the fuse for the turn signals and the fusible link.) 2. With the hazard switch plugged in and the turn signal flasher unit unplugged, you had 12 VDC to ground on the green/yellow wire? (If not, use #3 to confirm.) 3. With the hazard switch unplugged and off, did you have continuity on the hazard switch plug where the green and green/yellow wires would go? (If not, you still have a bad hazard switch. You may be able to take it apart and clean it.) 4. With the hazard switch and flasher unit plugged in, did you have 12 VDC at the white wire in the steering column? (If not, you have a bad flasher unit.) For the hazard lights, use the attached copy of BE-11 to follow along with what I wrote below. 1. With the hazard flasher unit unplugged, do you have 12VDC to ground at the red/white wire? (If not, check the fuse for the hazards and the fusible link.) 2. With the flasher unit plugged in and the hazard switch unplugged, do you have 12VDC to ground at the green/blue wire? (If not, you have a bad flasher unit.) 3. With the hazard switch plugged in and switch ON and connector C-7 unplugged, at the C-7 connector do you have continuity between the green/blue and green/black wires or between the green/blue and green/red wires? (If not, you have a bad hazard switch.) Do those tests as I described, report the results to us, and we can probably give you a better idea of what to do. Please note that there are two flasher units in your car. Make sure you note the wire colors so you select the correct flasher unit for each series of tests. 1977 Turn Signal Circuit.pdf 1977 Hazard Circuit.pdf

Too late. He took a payoff from the other party to avoid filing the insurance.

Blackdragon also has chromed bumpers $700 for a full set.

This is what I see when I go to the links you posted. So it is difficult to tell what you purchased.

I would wait until oil companies or auto companies recommend it.

My guess then is that the 9 LED bulb I bought was a little shorter.

I reported it, but nothing was done.

You're right. He had voltage at the end of the fusible link.