SteveJ

I've got no problem with that.

The wife says I have to kick one out if I want another toy...

The interesting thing is that they used the same part number. I was looking for a part number change to indicate Nissan moving away from that style.

It doesn't look like the ones I had. There's only one part number listed in the online parts manual. It's 17251-N4501, and it's still available from Nissan.

Have you been able to open the door fully? If so, remove the latching mechanism from the door. Clean and lubricate it. There is also a spring in the mechanism that rusts/disappears. Once it's gone, the door lock will not stay up on its own. Based on your other post, it looks like the secondary latch is catching. Is the door lock lever staying up? Have you tried pulling up on the door lock lever while opening the door?

So are you going to make a new mounting point in the floor behind the seat?

I joined up with Z Atlanta to go on a drive up to the North Georgia Mountains. Even with the worn out suspension, it was a blast. The guys behind me enjoyed watching the old Z navigating the twisting roads. I did leave early, though. I'm far too out of shape to be driving on curvy roads for very long without power steering. I posted one video of the drive to my blog already, and I'll post others later. Z Atlanta Fall Mountain Run ? October 2013 | Steve's CARtography Enjoy.

Thank you. It does help.

Do you have a link where you found this?

Download a copy of the FSM. In the EE section there is a breakout of all of the circuits. (By the way, put the year of your car in your posts or create a signature with the year. It helps to give model-specific answers.) Are the front lights coming on? If not, check your connections going into the relay harness. How did you determine whether or not you have voltage at the specific points? Test light? Voltmeter? Where did you put the negative lead of the meter? What fuses did you check voltage on? Have you inspected all of the bulb sockets and cleaned out any corrosion? Don't be quick to splice in new wires. You can create more headaches that way.

Don't rely only on "write-ups." Refer to wiring diagrams, too. What alternator did you use, and what write-up did you use?

Page EF-16, Section 12: 36 PSI

Do you have a roll cage to anchor the top mount properly?

Don't be surprised to find rust in the tank.

Walter, I just want to emphasize that after buying the 3 point mount and the roadster style from Wesco, I recommend the roadster style.

Will it run under load?

Do you have your internally regulated alternator already? If so, post pictures of it and any documentation that came with it.

Correct on both accounts.

While you wouldn't be able to just move one wire over, the 73 fuel pump wiring could be modified to use an oil pressure switch in a manner similar to what Dave did.

For safety reasons, if you wish to maintain an electric fuel pump, you should install an oil pressure switch in the circuit to energize the relay. I have another idea that incorporates other outputs from the alternator, but I haven't had time to test it. In a purely stock configuration, the voltage regulator plugs into a 6 pin connector. The electric fuel pump modification from Nissan added a short harness that goes between the alternator and voltage regulator. Simply removing that short harness would remove the power from the fuel pump relay.

Refer to these: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars There is a good chance that when you took apart your turn signal switch, the rocker for the brake lights on the driver's side was displaced. On the image above, it is the rocker at the top. When you use your turn signal, the switch pushes the rocker away from the contact so that the rear light is part of the turn signal circuit instead of the brake light circuit. If the rocker does not resume contact, the light will not illuminate with the brakes. I hope this helps.

Well, if it's 4 AWG or larger it won't. This is where it is important to know the fuse curve. Instead of trying to explain it imperfectly, I'll post this link: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/solution-center/technical_library/BUS_Ele_Tech_Lib_Time_Current_Curves_How_to_Read.pdf Basically, you might need 70A for inrush, but that is only for a short duration. I think a 20A fuse would work, but you would need 12AWG or larger wire for the circuit.

A multimeter is not necessarily that expensive, and it is a very valuable diagnostic tool.

Actually you just need to replace the fuse. Some people don't understand the reason for the dim headlight, so I explained why it happens in detail.

The procedure to check the sensors for the brake light warning starts on page EL-50. What were the voltages you read in performing steps 5 & 6?