SteveJ

They are actually very easy to rebuild. I have done a few myself.

Look on page 28 of the supplement.

Actually, I don't think it's that difficult. Instructions on cleaning the switch are here: Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars. For more details on the circuit itself, look here: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars Also don't forget to check the lamp sockets for corrosion.

Look on http://www.xenons30.com/reference for the 1971 supplement. That will be about as close as you will find for a wiring diagram. It even shows you what color wires should go to which connectors.

Not knowing the year of your Z, I just have to give you the generic answer. Download the FSM (link below). Edit your profile and create a signature with the year of your car. It will help you get more specific answers.

Did you download a copy of the FSM, yet? Also, look for the Fuel Injection Guide (XenonS130 - S130 Reference). It's referred to by many as "the fuel injection bible".

Having replaced the driver's door mechanism in my 260Z, I would agree with Chuck.

Just California. It varies from state to state. For instance, in Georgia, there is no smog testing of 25 years old and older.

CO means it's probably rich. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS get a pre-test in California to find out what you need to fix before your car gets labelled as a gross polluter.

Did you check your fuses?

Try to get some details and post them here.

When you total it all up, the circuit for the headlights on low beam and the circuit for the running lights (with the dash lights) each draw about the same amount of power.

Dave's relays are as close as you will get.

Buy the MSA kit or Z Specialties kit for the relays. They are one and the same. Daniel Stern won't have anything plug-&-play for the Z. The kits I mentioned ARE plug-&-play.

Steve, that's what I originally used to guide me, but the tricky part for the novice is that the Z supplies a constant 12VDC+ and switches the ground.

It's not a plug & play on the 260Z & 280Z because of different connectors, but you can make it work.

When you say none of the lights, does that include the headlights? The running lights and gauges are on the same circuit. Download the factory service manual (FSM). Start reading, especially the EF & BE sections. After you have looked through them, start formulating questions. Go to my blog and Blue's Tech Tips to learn more about the electrical system. Good luck. By the way, the more you show an effort that you tried to do it yourself, the more people will bend over backwards to help you. The S30 is a good model car to start learning about how to work on cars.

I bought the Black Dragon kit and didn't like it much. The relays are not standard. If one fails, you will be hard-pressed to find a replacement. The wiring is on the short side, too. In all of the years Dave Irwin has made his relays, you can count the complaints on the fingers of one hand. He will stand behind his work, too. Buy the MSA kit.

What have you tested? What were the results?

Go back to what Pete suggested. Check out the filters AT the carburetors.

Pete Thomas also identified another electronic flasher unit in the "Sold on LEDs" thread.

True, I forgot about those.

I believe the ground will be found under the carpet in the back near the right taillight in the 73. However, my memory is fuzzy and is the carpet.

Corrosion in the box could cause hot spots.

The four most likely things I can think of (off the top of my head) 1. Air leaking into the line. 2. The pump is weak. 3. The diaphragm on the pump is damaged. (You would have seen fuel coming out if it's leaking.) 4. You have a blockage upstream. You may want to ensure the lines are clear with some compressed air. Once you verify the lines are clear, you may want to install a fuel pressure gauge near the carburetors to see if you have fuel pressure.