SteveJ

You could get an LED light like this. It's a little pricey, but it'll probably be the last time you buy a bulb. They put out pretty good light, and if you forget to turn it off, it will take a long time before it runs down your battery.

Dang, you're about two years too late. Z Barn was in your neck of the woods. Unfortunately Roger sold his business. I don't know if the buyer set up shop, either. What year Z do you have? Did you break the tabs off the switch cover?

Just wait. I'm trying to see if I can get my CAD skills sharp enough to modify Wayne's 280Z wiring diagram for the 260Z.

There is a reason I said to look at Pete's posts. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/40600-sold-leds.html

Exactly. Use the Report button, the little triangle on the lower left of the post, to report the post as spam.

Also look at Pete Thomas' posts in the Sold on LEDs thread here. He added electronic flashers to his Z. I believe he used Tridon EP34s.

Jan, just to be clear, even in the Atlanta area, there are no smog checks on vehicles more than 25 years old. Six years ago, I did not have any issues with getting a Georgia title on my 73. I bought the 74 here, and I had no issues with getting the Georgia title transferred into my name. HSR puts on some nice vintage racing events at Road Atlanta and in the Savannah area. Some guys came up to Carrollton from Savannah for Z Nationals, too. The Z club in the Savannah area seems pretty active. They hosted the national convention in 2010. Good luck with your move.

My lovely wife bought some 16x7 Konig Rewinds for me.

Fuses limit current. Your voltage was out of spec since you weren't properly regulating the voltage. Make sure your charging system is working properly before installing any more electronics.

Oh, so you're replacing the whole switch? You can replace just the back portion. It's not to difficult to test to see if it's not working right, provided you know how to use an ohmmeter. Anyway, if it is number 2, I guess you'll learn how to put in a diode.

For the filler hose, get it from a Nissan dealer. I don't have the part number handy, but it's still in the system. Some of the vent hoses are NLA. You'll need some fuel/oil grade hose to replace those. Look at my website on Z cars to find a bunch of helpful links.

Thank you for the clarification. From your description, I would suspect one of two things is happening. 1. The switch on the back of your ignition switch is going bad. 2. You are getting feedback through the ballast resistor that is going through the ignition switch. The fixes for each would be 1. Replace the igntion switch. 2. Put a diode on the Black/Blue wire to prevent it from feeding back. How good are you with an electrical meter? I can tell you how to test.

What exactly did you jumper, and where did you get your guidance? Really, you only need to jumper the emergency switch under the hood.

Saw it. Threw up in my mouth.:sick:

I sent a PM to Joe Travis (GeoJoe). He can put you in touch with John Williams. I'm guessing John has several.

On numerous occasions I have suggested removing the rotor. Thirty years ago, my family had to park our car in a hotel parking garage in SF. My brother pulled the rotor as an anti-theft measure. The car was always in the same place as we parked it.

The G/L wire comes off the fusebox. It's the wire that carries 12VDC+ to the switch. It should be hot all of the time. The switch then makes contact between the G/L & G/W wires. The G/W wire then carries the voltage to the light.

Nissan still has nuts...er...wiper nuts.

I elected to go a different route. The coil will be powered off of the ignition switch. I'm going to wire this buzzer through the normally closed contact and power the buzzer off of the running lights circuit.

Sorry, all I have is a 73. I can't guarantee compatibility.

Keep in mind that it was a lighter than normal turnout. You should have seen the crowds in the previous three months.

Does your car have the factory designed electric fuel pump modification installed? If so, using an internally regulated alternator without removing the wiring for the fuel pump relay will cause the relay to be energized all of the time. This could cause your battery to drain if the car sits for an extended period of time.

If you choose to put in an internally regulated alternator, you will need to purchase an oil pressure switch to control power to your electric fuel pump. In the 260Z, the power for one of the fuel pump relays comes from between the alternator and the voltage regulator. You would have to re-wire that to prevent your fuel pump relay from being energized all of the time.

Being the first of the month and right after Thanksgiving, the crowd at Caffeine & Octane was pretty light. There were only three S30s there today. I did get the chance to share a couple of Z car stories, though. A car day is ALWAYS a good day. Enjoy the pictures: Caffeine & Octane ? December 2013 Edition (340 pictures) | Steve's CARtography

Carl Beck knows Andy, though. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/31481-finding-old-friend-its-small-world.html