SteveJ

Not currently, at least from what I can/can't find on Google.

Start here: XenonS130 - S130 Reference

What is the pressure of the fuel pump? The stock pump specs are 3.4 to 4.3 PSIG, so the electric fuel pump should provide a similar pressure.

Pictures would help with valuation. Also what do you mean by "pretty ruff"?

Georgia does not require a title for a car from 1985 or earlier.

My guess is that you're typing something wrong. It came up here, too. NissanParts.cc - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories Of course, if you give that part number to your local dealer, they might be able to beat the price when considering shipping.

The part he's looking for is a check valve that lets in make-up air as you run the engine, but it won't let fuel vapors out when the tank warms. Part number 38 in the first link. It's not marked as NLA, so it may still be available.

Year? Nissan part number? Federal or California emissions?

Okay, that is definitely your accessory relay. Do the other checks and get back to us on the results.

1. Check the voltage while trying to start the car. Does it drop? 2. Check the voltage at the starter solenoid. 3. Check to see if your grounds are in good shape, especially to your solenoid. If it is a relay you are hearing, it is the accessory relay. You may be hearing the solenoid. Figure out where the click is.

Tough Acts to Follow - Mustang II, Thunderbird, XJS and more | Hagerty Articles Sorry, S130 owners...

Give the kid a chance. He may have a plan. I lean toward him biting off more than he can chew, but he may learn more than I know by trying and not succeeding. You have to admit that he does have ambition.

By the way, Google revealed this thread: Brembo's in 240z - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ It's not big on real info, though.

What inspired you to go with the Brembos from a C6? What rotors do you plan on using? What about the proportioning valve? Are you planning on doing anything with the rear brakes? Any idea of how much bigger wheels you'll need to clear the brakes and calipers? You'll have a lot of custom fabrication in front of you. You'll need to figure out how to mount the calipers, too. Have you looked over at Hybridz to see if someone else has done this? How much do you know about brakes?

Just in case anybody wants to see Frankenstein: index.

Well, I didn't notice any different Z cars when I was walking through the garage last night, so unfortunately, it wasn't me.

Yes, I forgot about Frankenstein. What did he ever do with that one?

Did you check out the light sockets, too?

V12 LS1 Build - LS1TECH Look at what the author plans to put the motor into...

The corrosion I'm referring to would be inside the engine, so it wouldn't matter where it was from. It would be more like how it was treated. Not using the proper coolant mixture could lead to corrosion inside the coolant passages. Overheating could cause warping of the head/block to the point where the head gasket wouldn't seal. Improper torquing of the head could result in an improper seal as well.

Teflon tape & brakes? I don't think that's a good idea. You could introduce debris into wheel cylinders and calipers. Edit: Interesting link - http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/is-teflon-tape-okay-for-use-in-a-brake-system/36652/page1/

When the car has not been driven, raise the front wheels off the ground and try to spin the front tires. Do they spin freely, or does it seem like the pads are dragging? Have you tried pushing the calipers back? If only one side is dragging, I would suspect a caliper. If both sides drag, I would be more suspicious of the master. Try looking through the brakes section of the FSM and see what it says about adjusting the rod on the MC. I know I had it out of adjustment on the 240 when I replaced the MC & booster years ago. I was much more careful about the measurements the last time I did it. Also, did you ever trace the leak in the MC? Could it have been from a bad booster? Really you haven't ruled out anything, yet.

Actually, neither the carburetors nor the fuel injection on these cars proves to be that much of a challenge. The documentation for both systems are readily available. Heck, I helped someone get his 280Z fuel injection running just with a few messages over Facebook and a couple of phone calls. This was without me ever even touching a 280Z fuel injection system. If I can figure either the carburetors or fuel injection out, it can't be that difficult.

I think it may be a fiberglass bumper. Removing the original bumpers is a popular weight loss technique for the 280Zs. Edit: As I looked through the eBay pictures, I noticed that he snagged the picture I took of his engine bay.

I am familiar with car number 2. It was parked close to me at the April Caffeine and Octane. It's the one next to the blue chair. The seller is parting with the car due to health issues. I have a vague idea of where his reserve may be. How much do you want to spend? It is a 280ZT engine swap. I'm not sure what 240Z parts you think it has. I don't recall seeing any. Edit: Changed month to April for Caffeine and Octane