SteveJ

HGS130 = 280ZX 2+2. This sequence was used until Feb 81 according to the link I attached. From the rest of the number, I would guess 1979. Post a picture of the car. VIN information

Actually I was just helping someone the other day with his injectors on his 77, and his final issue was that the tach wasn't grounded properly.

Well, there's no time like the present to learn how to use a multimeter. Here's some info to get you started: Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars. Once you buy a multimeter and learn how to do resistance measurements, we can go through how to use it to diagnose your problem.

Just to clarify something. It's not an increase in resistance. It's a decrease in resistance. P=V2/R As resistance increases, power decreases. Less power means less heat. Corrosion at the light sockets gives the current an alternate path to the filament as the corrosion breaches the gap between positive and negative. Multiple paths means more current can flow since P=VxI. Corrosion at the connections causes a different problem. When the interface between to electrical devices gets corroded, the path for electrons to flow gets narrowed. This causes a localized heat buildup. If it happens at a switch, it can melt the solder. For cleaning, use something like Caig Deoxit. On rusted contact surfaces, use sandpaper of around 800 grit. You don't want the metal pitted since that reduces the contact area. P - Power V - Voltage I - Current R - Resistance

That doesn't help. You're crossing circuits by doing that. "1 dot" Type 1156 bulb "2 dot" Type 1157 bulb aka dual filament Don't cross the streams. I think you should learn to use a multimeter and check the resistance in the circuit. You could have a short in circuit. Rule that out first. If you look on my blog, I have a post about electrical troubleshooting, including a link to a video on how to use a multimeter.

Thank you. Now we just need someone to be as picture happy at the West Coast Nationals. Yes, I did get the headlights from Black Dragon. I'm pretty happy with them, too.

Pictures are up from Day 2 of the 2013 Mitty: The Mitty 2013 - Day 2 | Steve's CARtography

It means you have a short in the dash light harness. Start with checking EACH light socket. Look for corrosion (already mentioned) and crossed wires. Make sure no one did a makeshift repair on a socket and crossed the positive and negative wires. Make sure you don't have any damaged wires, too. Do you know how to use a multimeter?

I posted links on my blog for all of the Rockauto closeout parts pages for the S30s. Grab the links that you want. I also linked a forum post that tells you how to find closeouts on any car in the Rockauto parts catalog. Rockauto Closeout Parts | Fiddling With Z Cars

And I acknowledged that you did. As I said, it was appreciated very much. Search for BCCD here. You'll find plenty of info. Also look for the Fuel Injection Reference at XenonS30. That will help you fill in the holes. Do you know what sensors and actuators are missing? You might want to get to know Oliver at Z Specialties. He is located in Washington state. He is also known as Z Man of Washington. I have a link to his site on my blog. He has a lot of used Z parts.

Well, another Mitty has come and gone. I posted a few (349) pictures for you to enjoy. You can see them at Steve's CARtography: The Mitty - Day 1. Enjoy!

STOP! First learn how the car is supposed to work, then decide what you want to do (with a budget). Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM? Do you have a decent multimeter? Do you know how to use a multimeter? To get help, I suggest the following steps: 1. Read the FSM. It has some good troubleshooting guides and detailed diagnostics. 2. When you pose a question, give plenty of details. 3. ALWAYS post the year of your car. (I can't tell you how much it is appreciated that you put it in the title of your post.) 4. Try to look for modifications done by previous owners and let us know what they are. By the way, welcome to the site.

Please make sure you didn't install the brake calipers on the wrong sides. The bleed screws should be at the top of the caliper. Many people have made this mistake. It's relatively easy to do. You don't even realize it until you cannot get a firm pedal no matter how much you bleed.

I have some pictures and GIFs from Day 2 posted: The Mitty 2013 ? Day 2: OMG! OMG! Rain! | Fiddling With Z Cars Does anything look familiar to you, Pete?

Give the wire colors on the engine harness side, and I can try to figure it out. I don't like trying to go off of pin numbers on the connectors.

I took a lot of pictures today. It will be a while before I can post them all. In the meantime, I put up a few teaser shots on my blog. The Mitty 2013 ? Day 1: Just a teaser | Fiddling With Z Cars

Fuel, air, spark. Since the engine fired, let's focus on fuel. 1. What is the fuel pressure when you try to start the car? 2. What is the fuel pressure when the key goes from START to ON? 3. Is the ECU properly grounded? Do a continuity check from pins 5, 16, 17, and 35 on the ECU connector on the wiring harness to ground. 4. Are you getting voltage to the dropping resistors? 5. Remove the clip from an injector. One side should have voltage to ground. The other side should periodically have continuity to ground when the injector is firing. If you don't have the FSM and a wiring diagram, I suggest you download them. Also download the 280Z/ZX fuel injection book. Read the EF section of the FSM and the fuel injection book. Reading and doing tests is a lot cheaper and smarter than throwing parts at the problem. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, go to this link: Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars and follow the link to the YouTube video on how to use a multimeter.

Guys, it's useless to follow up Phil's post by virtue of Godwin's Law.

I will be there Friday through Sunday. Look for my car near the Suzuki Bridge.

I think I found your problem. Seriously, though, unless you could provide detailed diagrams of how you re-wired everything, it would be quite a challenge. I'm not sure what you kept from the factory and what you replaced. Having voltage drop to zero usually indicates bad technique with a meter or a short. If it's a short, why isn't the fuse blowing? So, with it not being a short, that suggests it's an open circuit (or you did a bad job of wiring). Change your technique and use an ohmmeter to figure out where the circuit opened up. That's about as close as I can get you for now.

Take a picture of the pin you have. Maybe someone has one or can tell you how to fabricate one.

How exactly are you applying power from the battery to the driver's side brake light? Did you disconnect the harness at the back panel? Remove what wire? They have colors to identify them. Or are you talking about your jumper wire from the battery? Not yet. Take a look at this and make sure you trace out your circuits. Look for any place where someone might have hacked into the wiring.

Nothing diagnostic. You are powering some circuits, including the coil with the key ON and car not running. That's causing the voltage drop.

#2 could indicate a bad fuel pump relay. Just to clarify, you were measuring with the wires disconnected from the pump? Also, did you verify that one wire was grounded to the chassis? At this point, too, you would want to trace out the whole circuit to verify there isn't a bad fuse, fusible link or connector. If your fuel pump is dead, you would need to replace it with a low pressure pump. I've heard of people using the one from a carburetted RX-7.

My memory is failing me. It was only $232 TOTAL to insure both cars. That's with Hagerty Plus.