SteveJ

See page FE-5 in the 1976 FSM.

In the states, it's on TV this time.

Welcome. In its stock configuration, a 260Z had dual Hitachi carburetors that were a modification on the Skinners Union (SU) design. There was no turbocharger. There have been many turbocharger kits on the market. Are there any sort of identifying marks on the manifold to indicate its manufacturer? I'll pass on addressing this. Pay a locksmith. To learn more about your car, download a copy of the factory service manual (FSM). The link is below. It can help you identify what the previous owners have modified.

Actually, the wiring from the 72 is different in many areas including around the fuse box and steering column.

Where is the car located?

The swap for the 73 240Z, 260Z & 280Z is something I'm going to be looking at in the future. I am interested in getting better integration with the intermittent function. At least I can test my theories out on the 240Z & 260Z.

Thank you, Mike. Now that I have a better camera and a lot more switches to play with, I was thinking of re-doing that one. I liked your animated GIF, too. I agree about not flattening the rockers. That won't improve the operation of the switch.

You can cool off components using a can of dust-off or similar product. Just hold the can upside down when spraying on the component (such as the ECU), so you spray a liquid on it. The liquid will evaporate quickly, cooling off the component. That will help with the diagnosis.

Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars

Caffeine and Octane pictures are posted: Caffeine and Octane ? June 2013: Here Comes the?Clouds? (344 pictures) | Steve's CARtography There were some interesting cars today, including a car made in 1900, a 240SX with an LT1 V8, and a Tesla Model S.

FYI, most people here will refer to that as a condenser. You only need one. Go with the newer one. Also verify whether or not your new alternator is internally regulated.

Post pictures of both alternators so it is clear what you are talking about.

Try ZSpecialties for the wiring harness.

This is where a better meter with a hold function is your friend. You can capture the max. An oscilliscope can do this, too, but it's a little overkill. After looking at the circuit diagram I have online, I would say that I suspect the turn signal switch.

Did you connect one lead of the test light to the G/B and the other to the G/R? If so, you did it wrong. Shell out $20 for a multimeter and check the voltage of each wire to ground. Here's the key, though. The voltage from the turn signals will pulse. Also, check the measurement against what happens when you turn on the hazard lights.

There are many connectors under the dash. Which one did you take apart? Does it match up to any of the connectors in the link I provided?

Try looking at this: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Thank you. I would think that it might be a good idea to disconnect the battery, remove the fusebox and inspect/clean it. You have corrosion that is bad enough to cause at least 9 watts of heating at that fuse. It will only get worse over time.

Where are the leads when you detect a one-volt drop?

Yeah, I saw that about a week ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/49433-unique-hybrid.html

Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars

Yeah, don't pour too much money into that one. Just fix it up enough to enjoy driving it.

Something doesn't fit right. Is there any chance you have a ZX distributor or some other modification?

Considering you posted elsewhere that someone painted it red over the original color, it wouldn't have much value to someone who values the citrus green. (repaint<original) Rust drives the value down more. If you were looking to make money off of it, you will probably generate more income in parting it out. Otherwise, drive it.

I think we found your problem. 7PSIG>4.3PSIG. You need a pressure regulator downstream to use that fuel pump.