SteveJ

He's referring to the ignition switch. They do wear out. Fortunately you can replace the back part of the switch without replacing the whole assembly.

It's not a fuse. It's a fusible link. Look here to see what I am talking about. It's the part that looks like a piece of wire in the first listing. I apologize. I didn't realize you drove on the wrong side of the road. While the FSM on XenonS30.com is oriented to the North American market, it does have a wiring diagram for non-North American cars. The hazard switch on that one is a little different. The hazard switch should be between the steering wheel and the center stack on the dash. Just look at the placement on the North American cars and do a mirror image. It should be in about that place. You may need to ask another Aussie about that.

I have a set in the garage. Tell me what dimensions you want to know about, and I'll take measurements.

It was a glorious morning for Caffeine and Octane. The lot was overflowing. I got there early to reserve spots for the S30s (though there was one S130 that parked with us). The great thing about the collection of S30s there today was the variety of engines in them including stock, stroker, L28ET, SR20DET, and LT1. Enjoy the pictures. Caffeine and Octane April 2013 | Fiddling With Z Cars

There HAS to be a wire going from the battery to the starter. Then there should be a fusible link wire between the starter and the wiring harness. The only way you don't have wiring like I described is if someone hacked/replaced the wiring harness or if you don't have a 240Z. By the way, no brake lights and no turn signal point the hazard switch as the most likely culprit.

First, when you changed to the internally regulated alternator, did you remove the voltage regulator and put in the jumpers (http://www.zhome.com/Care/Altwire.htm) or MSA/Dave Irwin plug for the internally regulated alternator to work? Edit: I forgot to add, once you get your car charging properly, diagnose your turn signals using this link as a guide.

I haven't had any problems. I can't remember what all I've ordered that way. It's about like using RockAuto.

I only bought a battery powered sawzall a few months ago myself. When you mentioned rust in the earlier reply, I figured it was a long shot anyway. Thanks.

Darrel, is there any chance that the passenger side dogleg was in good shape? If so, is there any chance of you getting it for me?

This isn't too surprising... Picked Clean: If You Want 240Z Parts, You Need To Work Fast! | The Truth About Cars

I would drop that down to 10A. The pump shouldn't draw that much to start.

Measure continuity on the lowest resistance setting. Touch the leads together to see what the internal resistance is for the meter, then measure the two points. Subtract the internal resistance from your reading. It should only be a couple of tenths of an ohm.

Have you downloaded the FSM? If not, it would benefit you to do so. While the fuel pump wiring is not in there, it does have a wiring diagram for the rest of the electrical system. The tachometer does not trigger anything. Also, make sure you do the tests I listed earlier. The components must be functional for the fuel pump to get power.

The second relay is only energized when the alternator is putting out enough voltage. That is the engine is running and turning the alternator fast enough for the alternator to energize the coil. I was wrong earlier. It wasn't a PDF. It was a JPG. Here is the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/47253-fuel-pump.html.

Both relays should be on the passenger side at the kickpanel. There is another thread on this board with PDFs of the Nissan documents for this.

Fix/replace known bad components. Then check your results again. Edit: I forgot to add this. Pull the alternator and have it tested. If it's bad, too, you could ruin your new battery.

The factory modification attached between the alternator and voltage regulator to pull power from the yellow wire. There are two relays for the fuel pump. One is energized by the starter. The other is energized by the yellow wire from the alternator. Diagnostics: 1. Bench check the relay coils and contacts. Energize each relay coil with a 12 VDC source and verify the contacts are closed. 2. Verify you have voltage at the correct terminals in the car. You have to check this while starting the car and while the car is running. Note: If key is in the ON position with the engine not running, you will NOT have voltage at the fuel pump.

To elaborate further on what Pete wrote, you should put a fuse between the solenoid and the oil pressure switch, as well. You put the fuse as close as you can to the positive side of the battery to protect as much wire as possible, since the chassis is grounded on the negative.

This was a lot easier. I guess the young guys have to do things the hard way first.

If you plan on keeping the car for a while and don't use AC, get rid of it. If the components are in good shape, I know someone in the area who might be interested in the system.

Let's go over some of the details. 1. How old is your battery? 2. Do you know how to use an ohmmeter? If so, have you checked for continuity between the battery negative and chassis and between the alternator E terminal and the chassis and between the battery negative and alternator E terminal? 3. Use the 72 FSM and look through the EE section. Test output according to the FSM and tell us what you get. 4. How old is the alternator? It could be on its last legs. 5. Do you know how to use an ammeter? If so, is the battery discharging when the car is off? What is the current? (Make sure all lights are off, including the dome light and glove box light.)

That sounds like a very reasonable price to me.

Mark me as interested, too.

Views do not equate to knowledge, and your attitude is unlikely to get you help in the future, either. I did direct you to other forums where you might be more likely to find the information you seek. Fortunately, this forum does have an ignore feature, and I will be more than happy to add you to it as of this moment. Good luck.

Of course, Black Gold is at the pinnacle... A History Of Nissan Z Commercials As Ranked On A Scale Of John Oates Mustaches