SteveJ

It means you have a short in the dash light harness. Start with checking EACH light socket. Look for corrosion (already mentioned) and crossed wires. Make sure no one did a makeshift repair on a socket and crossed the positive and negative wires. Make sure you don't have any damaged wires, too. Do you know how to use a multimeter?

I posted links on my blog for all of the Rockauto closeout parts pages for the S30s. Grab the links that you want. I also linked a forum post that tells you how to find closeouts on any car in the Rockauto parts catalog. Rockauto Closeout Parts | Fiddling With Z Cars

And I acknowledged that you did. As I said, it was appreciated very much. Search for BCCD here. You'll find plenty of info. Also look for the Fuel Injection Reference at XenonS30. That will help you fill in the holes. Do you know what sensors and actuators are missing? You might want to get to know Oliver at Z Specialties. He is located in Washington state. He is also known as Z Man of Washington. I have a link to his site on my blog. He has a lot of used Z parts.

Well, another Mitty has come and gone. I posted a few (349) pictures for you to enjoy. You can see them at Steve's CARtography: The Mitty - Day 1. Enjoy!

STOP! First learn how the car is supposed to work, then decide what you want to do (with a budget). Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM? Do you have a decent multimeter? Do you know how to use a multimeter? To get help, I suggest the following steps: 1. Read the FSM. It has some good troubleshooting guides and detailed diagnostics. 2. When you pose a question, give plenty of details. 3. ALWAYS post the year of your car. (I can't tell you how much it is appreciated that you put it in the title of your post.) 4. Try to look for modifications done by previous owners and let us know what they are. By the way, welcome to the site.

Please make sure you didn't install the brake calipers on the wrong sides. The bleed screws should be at the top of the caliper. Many people have made this mistake. It's relatively easy to do. You don't even realize it until you cannot get a firm pedal no matter how much you bleed.

I have some pictures and GIFs from Day 2 posted: The Mitty 2013 ? Day 2: OMG! OMG! Rain! | Fiddling With Z Cars Does anything look familiar to you, Pete?

Give the wire colors on the engine harness side, and I can try to figure it out. I don't like trying to go off of pin numbers on the connectors.

I took a lot of pictures today. It will be a while before I can post them all. In the meantime, I put up a few teaser shots on my blog. The Mitty 2013 ? Day 1: Just a teaser | Fiddling With Z Cars

Fuel, air, spark. Since the engine fired, let's focus on fuel. 1. What is the fuel pressure when you try to start the car? 2. What is the fuel pressure when the key goes from START to ON? 3. Is the ECU properly grounded? Do a continuity check from pins 5, 16, 17, and 35 on the ECU connector on the wiring harness to ground. 4. Are you getting voltage to the dropping resistors? 5. Remove the clip from an injector. One side should have voltage to ground. The other side should periodically have continuity to ground when the injector is firing. If you don't have the FSM and a wiring diagram, I suggest you download them. Also download the 280Z/ZX fuel injection book. Read the EF section of the FSM and the fuel injection book. Reading and doing tests is a lot cheaper and smarter than throwing parts at the problem. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, go to this link: Some Electrical Basics and Troubleshooting | Fiddling With Z Cars and follow the link to the YouTube video on how to use a multimeter.

Guys, it's useless to follow up Phil's post by virtue of Godwin's Law.

I will be there Friday through Sunday. Look for my car near the Suzuki Bridge.

I think I found your problem. Seriously, though, unless you could provide detailed diagrams of how you re-wired everything, it would be quite a challenge. I'm not sure what you kept from the factory and what you replaced. Having voltage drop to zero usually indicates bad technique with a meter or a short. If it's a short, why isn't the fuse blowing? So, with it not being a short, that suggests it's an open circuit (or you did a bad job of wiring). Change your technique and use an ohmmeter to figure out where the circuit opened up. That's about as close as I can get you for now.

Take a picture of the pin you have. Maybe someone has one or can tell you how to fabricate one.

How exactly are you applying power from the battery to the driver's side brake light? Did you disconnect the harness at the back panel? Remove what wire? They have colors to identify them. Or are you talking about your jumper wire from the battery? Not yet. Take a look at this and make sure you trace out your circuits. Look for any place where someone might have hacked into the wiring.

Nothing diagnostic. You are powering some circuits, including the coil with the key ON and car not running. That's causing the voltage drop.

#2 could indicate a bad fuel pump relay. Just to clarify, you were measuring with the wires disconnected from the pump? Also, did you verify that one wire was grounded to the chassis? At this point, too, you would want to trace out the whole circuit to verify there isn't a bad fuse, fusible link or connector. If your fuel pump is dead, you would need to replace it with a low pressure pump. I've heard of people using the one from a carburetted RX-7.

My memory is failing me. It was only $232 TOTAL to insure both cars. That's with Hagerty Plus.

If no one seems to have that part available, search through the threads. There was a thread on getting locks available through the parts stores (or eBay) that could work. The worst case is that you would have to get it re-keyed.

Hagerty. I pay the same to cover both my cars with an agreed upon value of $5000 each than I paid USAA for liability only with about the same coverage you have. You have to have a locked storage for your Z, and you must have a daily driver for you and your wife. They will ask for proof of insurance on both of your daily drivers. With my clean record (last moving violation in 1991), I think I'm paying about $250/year total for that coverage.

You can disconnect the fuel pump, have a friend crank the engine and see what the voltage is at the wires going to the pump. You can also actuate the AFM to see if the contacts are closing (Pins 39 and 36) to keep fuel pump relay energized.

Did you change the fuel filters? How do you know the fuel pump is dead? Did you check for voltage at the pump while holding the key in Start? Have you tested the pump with 12 VDC?

Keep in mind that the SCCA runoffs were held at Road Atlanta in that timeframe.

For the 74, I got the roadster kit. I mounted the reel up high because I want the slack to come from there when I lean forward. I don't want slack to build up along my hips. That could cause me to go under the belt in an accident.

If you have an ohmmeter, measure resistance from the positive terminal to the negative terminal and then from the center post to the negative terminal and post the results.