SteveJ

1. When you lose a hose, typically you will get air in the cooling system. If you don't burp the system, the air will cause you to overheat. 2. If you lose a hose going to the heater core, you will need to block off both hoses. Looping the system will cause the hot coolant to recirculate.

Do you have any pictures of what you did? I know I would be interested in seeing what to do.

What is so interesting about the JDM 260Z not having the fat bumpers? The heavier bumpers came from US regulations that cars be able to withstand a 5 MPH hit with no damage. By the way, the regulations were relaxed years ago, mandating only a 2.5 MPH hit. If Nissan didn't need to add a bunch of weight for their domestic cars, why should they?

My first suggestion: Stop throwing parts at the problem! It sounds like it is about time to invest in some diagnostic tools or take the car to a mechanic. Next, download copies of the factory service manual and fuel injection bible. You can find them here: XenonS130 - S130 Reference. Read through the diagnostics and trouble shooting guides. See if you see any conditions that are the same or similar to yours. Once you have done some real troubleshooting, come back with any ideas you might have. It will improve the chances that someone will give you a real solution instead of continuing on the shotgun approach. Some suggested tools for better diagnostics: Noid light for checking injectors Inductive trigger timing light (Not only can you use it to set your timing, since the trigger is inductive, it can indicate whether or not you're getting a spark.) Good quality multimeter (While a Harbor Freight cheap meter can work (I have a couple that I'm willing to burn up for current measurements.), if you need precise measurements, a quality meter, such as a Fluke, is the way to go.) Inline fuel pressure gauge Having said all of that, pay attention to the diagnostics for the ECU and AFM.

To be clear, Chas was describing a voltage drop where there shouldn't be one. When cranking the engine, you expect to see some voltage drop just from the starter's draw on the battery.

Thank you, Chas. I wanted to create a site that was informative and entertaining. I know that many people do not have a good understanding of the electrical systems in their cars, and I hope I make it easier for people to diagnose and fix their electrical systems. To borrow a phrase from an acquaintance, "It's not rocket surgery."

Chas was describing a good test. If you place one lead from a meter on a wiring point that should have 12 VDC+ (such as the positive post of the battery) and you place the other lead on another wiring point that should have 12 VDC+ (such as the positive terminal of the solenoid), you should read 0 VDC on the meter. That is because the voltmeter measures a difference in potential. When the key is in the start position, there should be very little drop in potential because under ideal conditions, the wire between the battery post and solenoid does not have much resistance. If you see a voltage difference, that means that something is causing resistance in the circuit. An example of that when switch contacts are in good contact with one another. Carbon buildup can act like a resistor, and additional heating will increase resistance (as Jan described). I'll have to add more to my electrical troubleshooting post to include more details on diagnostics with meters.

Well, your battery is good. The circuit was good, too. If it gives you problems in the future and the voltage is good, I would start questioning the health of the solenoid. If you see a lower voltage at the solenoid, I would suspect the ignition switch.

If you have not already done so, get a copy of the FSM. That is the BEST guide to troubleshooting your wiring. Go to the Body Electrical (BE) section. You can also read through my analysis of the 240Z turn signal circuit on my blog: Hazard Switch ? Brake Light ? Turn Signal Circuit Analysis | Fiddling With Z Cars. While there are some differences in connectors, most (if not all) of the wire colors will also match up to the 280Z. No power at the turn signals: (Refer to page BE-12) 1. Hazard switch: The hazard switch interrupts the turn signal circuit. This disables the turn signals when the hazard lights are on. If the contacts are worn, dirty, bent, etc., the turn signal circuit is not re-established. 2. Flasher unit: The turn signal circuit goes through the flasher before going to the turn signal switch. There are two flasher units. One is for the turn signals, and the other is for the hazard lights. 3. Fuse: Verify you have 12VDC to ground on both sides of the fuse. You can trace through the circuit for voltage following the factory drawings. Take notes of where you measured and what you took apart. If you can't figure it out, report in detail where you measured, how you measured, and the results. Headlights: (Refer to page BE-11) When the headlight switch is in the ON position, the red wire comes off of the switch and goes to the fuse box. There it splits into the fuses for each headlight. One is red, and the other is red/yellow. Again verify you have voltage on both sides of each fuse when the switch is on. Coming off the headlights are a red/black and a red/white wire. Those go back to the high beam/low beam switch on the turn signal switch. There one of those will be connected to the black ground wire. With the turn signal switch removed from the car, make sure that either the red/black or red/white wire has continuity to the black wire. Move the switch and ensure the other wire has continuity with the black wire. Before re-installing the switch, make sure the black wire in the dash harness has continuity with the chassis. When re-installing the switch, make sure you have connected all of the wires securely.

Well, since I loaded too many pictures into my free Flickr folder, my pictures from the 2011 convention were pushed aside. Instead, I reloaded the pictures onto my blog since Wordpress will give you 3 GB for free. For a trip down memory lane, enjoy... ZCon 2011 | Fiddling With Z Cars

Thanks for pointing it out. I just got my issue today.

I have one that I took off of my 74 when I put in a new washer bottle, but I think I took off the wires. You'd have to solder wires onto it.

The starter is not energized via the ignition relay. You could have a solenoid going south. Measure the voltage at the solenoid while someone else turns the key. If voltage is good and the solenoid doesn't kick in, then replace at least the solenoid if not the whole starter. If the voltage fluctuates, it could be another sign of a bad solenoid. If the voltage is always low, it could be a wiring issue or ignition switch issue. You could check by having the positive wire off of the solenoid and measuring the voltage. If it's still low, it's a wiring issue or ignition switch issue.

So in other words, they are not readily available in the US.

Ian, Courtesy Nissan lists the part as NLA, Blackdragon has the part greyed out in their drawing, and I couldn't find the part in the MSA catalog (though I didn't cross reference against my old paper catalogs). Where did you find it? Steve

There isn't much to interpret about the VIN other than what Bart said. I haven't been tracking VINs too closely myself. Carl Beck or Alan may be able to provide some insight on late 260Z production. You definitely have a "late" 260Z, though. You'll find it has quite a few parts more in common with the 280Z than the "early" 260Z.

Superbrightleds has an excellent selection of LEDs. You control the brightness the same way you do with incandescent bulbs.

I was having problems with the driver side door on my 260Z. I used a tech tip Enrique Scanlon posted several years ago. You can read about it here: Fixing the Door Latch | Fiddling With Z Cars

Does the VIN start with RLS?

In addition to checking your grounds, check your fusible links for corrosion. as they get corroded they will heat up, limiting current flow. Also, please put the year of your car in your post. While you have it in your profile, it helps to have it in the post so we have a better idea of the differences in your car.

You may want to try going to a community college class for welding before you buy one. That way you learn how to weld AND you get to try out at least one welder before you make a decision. You can probably also get opinions from the instructor as well. FWIW, if you are wanting to weld on your Z car, don't try the Harbor Freight model.

According to their website, the drums are cast iron. Do you have a Power Slot part number for aluminum drums?

He will certainly be missed here. About a month ago, I fixed the striker on the door of my 260Z following directions he posted several years ago. Fortunately, I had the opportunity to thank him for sharing the tip. He won't be forgotten here anytime soon.

I didn't go to ZNationals. Did they say they were using the ZCCA criteria? To be honest, I don't get worried about judging. If you look at the 73 at the top of my blog, it took home a 3rd place trophy looking exactly the way it did. It does help to have only 4 cars in the class and have the 4th be a rust bucket. If you would like, I can send a message to Chad at Z1 to see what I can dig up.

Oily? Are you sure your oil rings are offset enough?