SteveJ

The combo switch connects the ground for the wiper motor. So, if you connect 12VDC+ to one of the positions on the switch and turn on the switch, you will always blow a fuse. Now for the rest, I assume you have a pre-73 wiper motor and no amplifier. Take a look at the 72 wiper circuit. Note that the 12VDC+ goes from the fusebox to the wiper motor via the blue/red wire at the B terminal. The L, M, and H terminals are connected to ground at the combo switch. The L & M terminals connect to ground at position 1. The M & H terminals connect to ground at position 2. So if I don't miss my guess (using the 78 wiring diagram for the combo switch)... The yellow/green on the combo switch should go to the M terminal. The yellow/black on the combo switch should go to the L terminal. The blue/yellow on the combo switch should go to the H terminal. The washer is trickier since it is wired completely different from the 70-72 as opposed to the 73-78 wiring.

Read the FA and RA sections of the FSM. That should have most/all of the info you need.

I bought some Falken ZE-912s for the 240Z today. Now I just have to get the brake booster & master replaced, change out the coolant, inspect the hoses, and look for any other problems...

Rockauto has several models to choose from, and all are less than $50.

At what RPM? Even if you jumper out the external regulator, you will only get about 12VDC at idle, no matter how long you let it run. Get a copy of the 75 FSM from Xenons30. Look at the EE section of the manual to see how the alternator/regulator combination should behave. If you are sure you have an internally regulated alternator, jumper out the external regulator. If was important to note what year Z you had because earlier Z cars require a diode to prevent feedback when shutting down the car. Yours should not.

They do have touring laps at the Mitty...

To piggy back on what Wade was saying, test the output of the charging system by seeing how many volts it is producing. (Did you do that and find you have 12 VDC at the battery with the car running?) The 70-77 S30s had an external voltage regulator. The alternator for these cars was rated at 50 Amps. The 78 was the first with an internally regulated alternator rated at 60 Amps. If you do have an external regulator with the internally regulated alternator, you will have issues. You have left out a critical piece of information for us to help you. What year is your car? That will dictate what you need to try.

I have a picture of Tom's car in the pits here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2108980021195&l=69826b8ef5 Here is the blue Z: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2108980821215&l=b4a81483c8 Turn 10 is not a good place to find out your brakes are going. Are you planning on being at the 2013 Mitty?

I'm not sure that Dave's setup would work in a 240K.

Merry Christmas, Phil. Now get that Z inside a garage, PRONTO!

Was the resistor warm to the touch? What color wires are connected to the resistor? There are only three reasons I can think of for the resistor to smoke. 1. It's a bad resistor. 2. It was wired wrong. 3. There is too much voltage going to it. You might want to check the voltage at the battery when you have the car running.

I added another blog post that I hope will help others to understand how relays work and how they should be wired into the car. Relays Simplified

Actually, that is on most dash covers, too.

Of course, Phil. I put one into the 260Z. I think I needed to use a more powerful LED than I put in, though.

Phil, I'm very pleased with the LED bulb I installed in the dome light.

Here's what you should do: 1. Read through the EF section of the FSM. 2. Go through the troubleshooting guides. 3. Take notes through 1 & 2. 4. If you don't figure out why your pump has no power, tell us what you did and what you saw so we can help you.

Of course, I would be more than happy to do so.

I believe the wires by the ignition switch are for the key-in-the-ignition buzzer when you open your door. The pictures did help a lot here. the two white wires are identified in the FSM wiring diagram as Control Unit Checking Unit. In other words, you don't connect them to anything. They are for testing.

Thank you. I have been searching online about how to build a tachometer. I even have an old one to play with. By the way, would you mind if I host your write-up on my blog, too?

I had no problem with the LED bulb I got from Superbrightleds once I turned the bulb around for proper polarity. Of course, I installed new door switches at the same time and cleaned the contact area for the switches to ensure good contact with the body.

It depends upon your definition of acceptable. There is this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread23919.html. If you have a 240Z, there is someone selling a new skin made from a mold of a good dash with a BIN price of around $780. I cannot vouch for quality or fitment, though.

There are times where a picture is worth a thousand words. This is one of those times. Are there stripes on the wires? Have you looked at the wiring diagram or EE or BE sections of FSM to see if you can find them? What connectors do the wires have?

Polarity? Try turning the bulb around.

Good to know. I guess I'll stay with my inexpensive compressor for now.

I've eyed this one in the past: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-air-hydraulic-strut-spring-compressor-65549.html. I like that you stand to the side of the spring to operate it. It appears to come with different size brackets, too. I got hit one time when a spring popped out of a compressor. I was lucky. It hit me in the head where it couldn't do any damage.