SteveJ

Is RockAuto out of stock, too?

You should really put the year of your car in your posts or signature. A 76 280Z would maintain pressure in the lines. Unless the original poster (or previous owner) changed the fuel system, the car does not have carburetors. The problem could be a fuel pressure regulator. Download a copy of the FSM and look in the EF section for troubleshooting tips. Also consider getting an inline gauge and installing that to see what the fuel pressure is while the engine is running and after you turn in off.

If Reddat is selling them, that means Nissan still carries them cheaper. However, note that for some of the hardware, Nissan doesn't necessarily care what was original for color. Who knows? Maybe I might be able to remember to look at my 73 this evening and tell you what it has.

Wasn't this car from East Tennessee? If so, I think I saw it on Craigslist. I hope you enjoy the ride.

Okay, you guys goaded me into doing some research. I found this link interesting: http://autoclub.atilim.edu.tr/dokuman/Automotive%20Electrical%20and%20Electronic%20Systems/Chapter13.pdf I took apart a faulty fuel gauge I had. I thought there was a voltage divider at play, and I figured it out...I think. (Correction as I type...It's a current limiter. The bimetallic strips are in parallel, so they both have 12 volts when connected.) The gauge has two bimetallic strips that can be heated up. One moves the needle and the other limits the current. The one that limits the current does so in the manner Enrique suggests. It heats up and breaks contact, allowing the full current to go to the sender side. This lets the other bimetallic strip heat up as it moves the needle. The bimetallic strip on the current limiter cools down, and the contacts make, letting it heat up again. This takes current away from the gauge bimetallic strip. If the contacts carbon up on the current limiter, that could cause too much current to flow through the gauge bimetallic strip for too long. Maybe I'll set up my test bench and multimeters on Saturday and let it be an electrical engineering play day. Thanks for getting me to think, guys. It's about time I spent some quality time on car stuff.

How would you swap in a 280Z ammeter? The 280Z has a voltmeter. Changing the alternator won't affect the ammeter.

I drove my Z to the local Ace Hardware store to pick up a couple of things today. While I was in line to pay, an older gentleman asked if anybody drove the 260Z in the parking lot. I mentioned it was mine, and he said that someone was saying he was a previous owner of the car. I walked out to the parking lot and met Randall. He said he bought the car in California and brought it with him when he moved to Georgia. That matched the verbal history given to me by the seller. We chatted about the car for a while, and I let him look it over. He bought the car in 1985 with over 150K miles on the clock and sold it in 1994. He was the third owner of the car, buying it and selling it for $2000. He recognized many of the modifications I made to the car, as well. And to think that it was a last minute decision to take the Z instead of my daily driver.

That's what I get for working from memory. Yes, screws to remove the headlights. I did about a year and a half ago. The penetrating oil did the trick for getting those screws out intact, too.

Just to remove the headlight, you either need to take off the front tire or turn the wheel all the way out (or is it in?). I take off the front tire myself. From there, you can remove the nuts that hold on the headlight. Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil since that area was exposed to the elements for about 40 years. You can and WILL snap off the studs if you don't. I can't remember for sure what else you need to do besides loosen the screws in front to take off the ring that holds the bulb inside the shell. It's not that complicated, though. You'll probably need new headlight gaskets, too. Order them already from either Black Dragon Auto or MSA. I don't know if there is a good parts supplier in the UK. Someone else would have to tell you about the sugar scoops.

Are you talking about the headlights themselves or the sugar scoops?

If Dave can't fix your switch, look for one at this website or call them. http://www.datsunstore.com/ Oliver has a good reputation in the Z community.

Can you trace the wires back to connectors and describe the connector (number of connection points, number of wires with colors, and location of the connector)? That could help us figure out your mystery wires.

Are you sure it's only 1.13 inches? It's fed by a 2 inch vent hose.

What part of Atlanta are you in? Eddie Radatz owns a reputable shop. You can even meet him at the Georgia Z Club meeting this Thursday.

Check the voltage at the solenoid and at the battery. If it's getting a little low at the solenoid, it might not engage. Also, the back of the ignition switch could be wearing. If that is the case, you can replace it without replacing the whole ignition switch.

I've thought about making one, but with my schedule, thinking is all I can do about it.

Enrique, Here is a write-up that someone posted a link to at one time. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp I think that's what Chris is trying. I have all the ingredients to try it myself, except for one important ingredient: time.

Cool. That was what I was going to try, too. It's good to know that my wild ideas work.

I hope you're planning on using something larger than 16 AWG unless you want to replace some fried wiring. I can't remember for sure, but that white/red is at least 12 gauge. Using 16AWG is about the same as putting in a fusible link. If you add up the loads coming off the switch, you will find that 16 AWG won't cut it.

Don't add one bad kludge to another. The fuses are downstream from the switch. That is to say that the switch is between the battery and the fuse box. Please download the reference I mentioned before. Look at the circuits going to the steering column and ask questions. Several of us have studied the wiring diagrams in detail and are willing to help.

It wasn't by choice. It was for work, and unfortunately, it will require at least one return trip.

What schematic are you using? IIRC the supplement for the 71 has the white/red identified. It's about as close as you'll find for a 70 FSM online. You can download it from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.

That should work.

Have a battery with a disconnect wired in parallel to the charger. Start with the battery & charger and use the disconnect after the current starts flowing. You should have posted this a week ago. I just got back from a trip up to Scarborough. I could have helped you.

What voltage are you using? Are you hooking up the ground, too. The fuel pump uses a voltage divider.