SteveJ

Randy, If you can make it to the Georgia Z Club meeting this Thursday, I will introduce you to someone who can work on your car. He's at almost every meeting. Meeting details are on the club's website.

Have you seen a link where someone did the swap with a 280Z? I've only seen it with 240Zs. The housing may be different. If you go for it and need help, let me know. I'm not that far away from you.

According to the parts catalog, yes, they are the same.

Jeff has a good point. You can see what they look like here http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php.

Upon further review, it kind of looks like a diode on the right side of the picture in series with the resistor.

Can you post what is written on the device? From the glare/lack of clarity, I can only make out that it's rated for 10 Watts. Also, if you have an ohmmeter take two measurements. Put the positive lead on one side and the negative on the other, then another reading with the leads switched.

Unfortunately, I would agree with Larry. You may want to hold onto it while you get another car to swap the parts over to. Call about the 71 advertised on Craigslist Atlanta quickly! http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/cto/3163713654.html

I just saw this on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-77-Datsun-710-2-4-door-Sedan-Shop-Service-Manual-/7949233158?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item1d9cfac06&vxp=mtr

I'll look around my garage if I can remember. I might have one or two floating around.

Vintage Connections will have many of the connectors you need.

http://vintageair.com/ By the way, I drove my 74 to Savannah & back to the convention last year without A/C. Of course, the two guys from Toronto did too, and they were driving all over the US in addition to the trip down to the convention. Here a search on posts for Vintage Air on this site: http://www.google.com/search?q=vintage+air+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GZAG_enUS455

I've never heard anything good about that company. Caveat Emptor.

Nissanparts.cc - http://www.nissanparts.cc/ This is a Nissan dealership that has a link to put in Nissan part numbers.

What's worse is that there is a good chance that not only has the second hand equipment in the junkyards has been used once already to protect occupants, those belts have been exposed to repeated cycles of rain, sun, hot, cold, etc. When I didn't know better, I was a fan of junkyard belts, but fortunately for me, with age came wisdom...at least a little wisdom.

If you don't have to keep the air flow meter stock, you may want to search over at Hybridz.org. I'm sure someone has posted a swap that shouldn't be too difficult.

Hmm, I can't remember for sure, but wasn't there a post recently for someone looking for a power window kit? Enrique, I think you found the ideal solution.

IMHO if you have to borrow much for a "classic car", then you should strongly consider holding off on the purchase. Save your money. If you research the value of Z cars as opposed to the interest you flush down the toilet, you will profit from your delayed gratification. I've attached a chart of how much a $10,000 and $15,000 loan would cost you. I got the rates from the US Senate Credit Union only because it was the first hit in Google. If you can't afford much of a payment, then your rate will go up, and you end up paying a lot more for your car. Signature Loans.pdf

Don't expect metal bumpers to be cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200765561432?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Oh, and you'll need bumper brackets from a 72 or earlier to mount the bumper.

Meh. Why put in old dried out belts that will break or be difficult to work with when for a few dollars more you can get brand new? IMHO that's penny wise and pound foolish. Plus, you don't have to spend the time looking around the junkyards, unless you just like roaming around for parts. I can understand that.

This is in a different direction, but I think the seat belts on either of these links could be modified to work. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/ll60.html http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/lb60.html - You can get these from 4 foot long to 9 foot long

Did you buy seat foam, too? Do you have early seats with webbing on the bottom, or do you have the metal springs on the bottom? I bought foam from Banzai Motorworks and upholstery from Black Dragon. After removing the seats from the car and the hardware from the seats, I found it easiest to cut most of the old hog rings. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut through the old rings. Note there are some metal rods that go through loops in the upholstery. Mine were bent up. I chose to replace most instead of trying to straighten them out. Wire clothes hangers are great replacement rods. Cut them to length and bend them to shape. Before removing the old upholstery, take some digital pictures to reference on putting it back together. I cut off the upholstery from the seat back. There are a couple of hog rings between the headrest part of the seat back and the lower seat back that you can only access after pulling the upholstery back. With the new seat foam, I cut the headrest portion off of the lower part of the seat back. I held the head rest in place with plastic wrap while pulling the upholstery back into place. After getting the upholstery over the seat back, I used tongue and groove pliers and slip joint pliers (pictures below) to bend the hog rings to hold the upholstery in place. For the seat bottom, remove the old upholstery. If you have webbing below the foam, replace the webbing and jute. Otherwise put on the new foam, upholstery and hog rings. Reattach the hardware and reinstall. If you have metal springs in the seat bottom and new foam, you will need to remove all of the spacers if you are 5'10" (1.78m) or taller. I didn't put in much detail because I found it all pretty straight forward to do even though I had never put on new upholstery before.

Digging into the flashers? They are easy to access under the dash on the driver's side. However, if you leave the front turn signals as incandescent bulbs, your old flashers should work, though they might blink at a slower rate.

Okay, so about a year later, I finally got around to replacing the lights in my tachometer with LEDs. After reinstalling, I noticed the turn signals didn't function correctly. I went back and replaced the LEDs in the turn signal indicators with the old incandescent bulbs, and the turn signals worked again. Apparently the Bussman electronic flashers still need enough current to flash at the proper rate. The drop in current with the LEDs caused the problem.

Funny, I just fixed the vapor locking problems on my 260Z. It was missing the insulation on the fuel line going to the front carburetor. I bought some Vulcan Fire Sleeve and slipped it over the fuel line. I drove it around in 90++ degree weather with no signs of vapor lock, despite the issues it had when the weather was 20 degrees cooler. What type insulation did you use on the fuel line?

You could try Bob's Speedometer. A friend of mine sent his tachometer there and was happy with the results.