SteveJ

I little work on Google gave me this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread35873.html. I think it will help you in your search since MSA might still have a compatible part.

Search this site for overrider. I think you will learn more about what you're looking for.

If you need the connector, you can find it at http://www.vintageconnections.com

All you have to do is search eBay for 240Z marker, and you'll find just the amber lights. I would recommend coating the backside with liquid electrical tape to reduce corrosion.

Are you talking about the entire light like what is shown in this auction? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-510-120Y-B210-240z-side-marker-lights-NEW-red-amber-/360454914256?hash=item53ecc980d0&item=360454914256&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

How old are the tires? Here are a couple of links to figure out the manufacture date of the tires: http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_expire.htm http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11& You've already had one tire fail. Are you going to be driving the car? Also, just changing one tire could significantly alter handling, especially under braking.

Assuming you have SU carburetors, have you checked the oil in your carbs?

When the humidity is low and the air is flowing through the car, 100+ isn't too bad. I drove my 73 many times in Northern California in those conditions. As long as you're moving, it was fine.

I think there have been some descriptions/links for this on Zcar.com As a matter of fact try this Google search and read through the results.

From the Wesco Performance website:

If you're going to buy new rims, you might want to consider 16x7 rims. That should give you better tire selection. Your selection be very limited with 14s and only a little less limited with 15s. You said it yourself. The tires are dry rotted. They need to be replaced. If you can afford wheels and tires, pull the trigger for them. If you don't have money for the wheels, stick with the 14s and revisit the issue in a few years. I can relate to your dilemma. My 73 needs new rubber, and I was debating moving to 16s. However, I do not want to dip into my savings right now for wheels and tires, so I'll probably stick with the 14s for a few more years.

Bryan, The inertia reels in the WESCO belts seem to function fine when mounted on the ceiling of the vehicle. They will grab if you try to extend them too fast when putting them on, and I haven't felt like I'm going too far forward under very firm braking.

You're quite welcome, Peter.

I don't recall ever hearing of "widetrack" or "wide track" pertaining to tires. Is there a particular reason you're hung up on this term? The only tires I can find using widetrack on Google are off-road tires. The chances are that your current tires are 8 to 10 years old. Given that, tire manufactures can and will change their product offerings. John and I gave you three options from Tire Rack. Certainly one of those could work for you. If you don't like those, try here.

Amongst the items you'll need (this is not all inclusive, just what immediately comes to mind): New intake gasket From a 70-72: intake manifold, throttle linkage, balance tube, air cleaner, carburetors Z Specialties or Zcarsource would be two sources for some of the parts.

If you go with 195/60R14s, you could get these or these from Tire Rack. Your speedometer would be off a little, but IMHO that's a small tradeoff.

Conventional wisdom (meaning a lot of people have said/typed this, though I have no empirical way of discerning the truth) says to replace the voltage regulator with the alternator. A bad VR can prevent your alternator from getting the excitation it needs to have an output.

Whenever the original horns were removed, the relay was unplugged. That way, there wasn't a loose 12VDC+ wire to touch the chassis in the front of the car.

You might want to start your own thread and describe the symptoms. Be sure to also describe any known modifications and whatever you've done to diagnose and fix the problem. Don't forget to add the year of your car, too.

Pics or it didn't happen.

Thank you.

Here is an easy, and relatively safe, way to check 12VDC circuits. Take two lantern batteries. Hook up the positive on one to the negative on the other. You now have a 12VDC source. You can connect the horn to the free positive and negative terminals. To test the horn button, find the connector in the steering column with the Green/Black wire. Use the resistance/continuity setting of the multimeter. Touch one probe to the G/B wire going to the horn and touch the other probe to the chassis. Press the horn button. If you don't have continuity, you have a problem with the horn button. If you do have continuity, put a wire into the dash side of the connector with the G/B wire and touch the other end of the wire to ground. If the horn doesn't sound, you likely have a problem with the fuse or horn relay.

1 hp(I) = 745.699872 W So even accounting for losses, you don't lose many ponies.

Yes. The wiring diagram in the BE section on the electronic version of the FSM at XenonS30 isn't terribly clear, but the turn signal wiring passes through the hazard light switch. Describe the behavior of the hazard switch and maybe someone can give you advice on how to repair it.

Z Specialties is good people. Oliver was a fixture at Zcar.com for a long time. He helped a lot of people on that board.