SteveJ

I was thinking programmable relay, too. I can see it as a way to replace a wiring harness that has been hacked to death by a previous owner.

Capacity issues? Not really, unless you add a bunch of new electronics: stereo, etc. Relay upgrades take care of the fact that the current for the headlights & parking lights goes through the switch contacts. Alternator upgrades typically resolve issues for people with low output at idle or handling a larger stereo, etc. IMHO, it seems that there is a potential for a significant cost for the ISIS system as compared to solutions that have already been engineered.

It could be worse. Hasn't Brian waited well over 2 years for his?

Dang, that's the second time someone has posted that car. My wife won't let me get a 3rd Z...I'll have to see if my brother wants a toy.

To elaborate on what Phil wrote... Does this mean you looked underneath the car thoroughly. Does this mean that the engine bay is clean, or did you take off the valve cover to examine the top end, at least pulled the dipstick to check the oil condition and check timing, compression, sparkplugs, etc? How much money are you willing to put into the car? Do you have a place to work on it? How badly do you want it? Is it worth $600 + repair costs to you?

My guess would be that the pickup doors would be slightly smaller.

Actually, most 260Z parts are interchangeable with the 240Z or 280Z. You just have to use the parts catalogs (insert plug for ClassicZCars parts CD here) & pictures to figure it out. For some parts, you may have to get creative to adapt a part, such as adding a spacer to mount a 240Z hood release cable. Parts availability isn't really a reason to pass on a 260Z as opposed to a 240Z or 280Z.

Dave hasn't been on this site in almost 4 years. I wouldn't expect a reply.

Edit: Yes.

Cheap? Not quite. You neglect inflation. From what I found (government statistics, so some skepticism is warranted), per capita income is about 8.5 times greater than it was 40 years ago. Even inflation adjusted, the government claims per capita income is 66% higher now.

2+2 glass won't work on a coupe. Early Z cars, aka Series 1, had vertical defroster lines. Otherwise, they are the same part numbers from 72 on.

IMHO, take a pass on this one and wait for a nicer one. That's a lot easier to do living in California. If you use Firefox, go to crazedlist to search multiple CL forums in SoCal. You will find the car you want.

It depends. What part of the wiring harness are you talking about? There is the enging bay harness and the body harness, and those can be broken down into sub-harnesses.

According to this page, 16 is yellow. This site may help with picking the right cog.

Is there not enough information for you in the FSM?

Nissanparts.cc lists the door clips at 90 cents each...if they can still get them. The plastic caps are listed for 37 cents...again, if available. If you're not in a hurry, you can try to order them. If they can't get them, you'll usually hear back in a few days.

Jamie, I'm not sure what clips/plastic you're talking about. Can you post pictures of the ones you have?

Considering Tony5050 hasn't been on the board in almost 3 years, who knows if he even still has the car?

Okay, the cylinder numbers refer to the block and not the distributor. Number 1 is the front cylinder, and number 6 is the back cylinder. Having said that, it looks like you have the wires in the right place. Search around here. Blue has posted a picture on numerous occasions showing the correct firing order. As for your other question(s), both bolts are for adjusting the timing. Think of it as fine and coarse adjustment. Usually, you put the fine adjustment (smaller movement) in the middle and use the coarse adjustment (larger movement) to get you in the ballpark on the timing. Then when you're close, lock down the coarse adjustment, loosen the fine adjustment and finish setting your timing. Lock down the fine adjustment, and you're done. Now, for your homework, research setting the dwell on points. Hey, it's an excuse to buy another tool...

The kit in the second picture can be found on the MSA website. The car in the third picture has 240Z bumpers and an air dam. You won't find many vendors for body kits out there, especially reputable ones. MSA is one of your best bets.

Go to Zcar.com and search for posts made by Tony D on smog checks. He has studied the rules thoroughly to make sure he passes. Unfortunately, a Google search of Zcar.com leaves a LOT to be desired. Definitely get a pre-test before you hook up for a test that counts. DO NOT get labelled as a gross polluter. I am a little confused, though. Why are you worried about a California smog check when your profile lists a Pennsylvania location? Edit: This link could help.

D'oh! There goes the American in me. The OP could get the same ratio from a 280Z 5 speed.

Doing the math: 2600/3000=.86666 From the link I posted, that would be a 280Z 5 speed.

Here's the link you want... Edit: By the way, in case you didn't figure it out from the chart, the drop is dependent upon the transmission.

I'd have to agree with Dennis (aside from tuning carbs on a FI engine ). Tune the engine properly first. Read the FSM on the proper techniques to tune your engine. Change your driving style to shift sooner. Easy on and easy off the gas & brakes. Those will make much more of a difference to your gas mileage than headlight covers, especially since the headlight covers do nothing to address the fact that the rest of the front of the car isn't very aerodynamic.