SteveJ

The best way to figure out your problem is to go through the troubleshooting guide in the FSM. Compounding the problem is that since the circuit that carries power to the headlight goes directly through the switch, over the years the voltage to the headlights drops, also dimming them some. The solution for that is to put relays in the circuit, such as the system designed by Dave Irwin (aka Zs-ondabrain) and sold by him and Motorsport Auto. (MSA has them on sale right now.)

Download the FSM for the 82 at XenonS130.com and the 78 at XenonS30.com. Use the wiring diagrams from the 78 & 82 to identify the wires you need to connect to make the swap. Use waterproof connectors in the engine bay if you have to make the connections there.

It looks like you figured it out.

I'm sorry. I meant to say that you should edit your signature and put the year of your car in it. That way it shows up in every post you make.

Mail order: Motorsports Auto Z Car Source - A site sponsor Black Dragon Auto Rockauto If you need to drive the car, you'll have to bite the bullet and pay for overnight shipping. Expect to pay core charges, too. By the way, edit your profile and put the year of your car in it. That can help you get better answers to your questions.

One of the best resources for answers is the factory service manual (FSM). Download a copy at the URL listed below. Read it, and you'll have most of your answers and diagnostic techniques straight from the factory engineers. While you're at the XenonS30 link, also grab a copy of the fuel injection bible. I looked at a copy of the 76 FSM since I already have it on my computer. The EF section indicates the fuel rail should have a pressure of at least 36.3 PSI. Your fuel pressure is low.

Here are some manufacturer FAQs on Freeze 12.

Here's the thread I was looking for. It helped that I could just look at threads I subscribed to. You'll find plenty of information on this thread and the threads linked to it.

Remember to move air through your faux paint booth. Use filtration to avoid messing up your paint job and an intrinsically safe fan to keep from blowing up. Read the material safety data sheet for respiratory protection information. Do not use a cheap paper mask. They don't protect you from anything besides big drops of paint. Do not set up your paint booth near a water heater or other ignition source. Last year, a neighbor was using a type of spray paint in a utility room off of his garage. The water heater ignited the vapors from the paint. The neighbor received 3rd degree burns. His garage was badly damaged, and several windows in the house were blown out.

Search on here. The subject of choke brackets has come up before. I mounted mine to the transmission tunnel.

Are you sure you're getting enough fuel? A mechanical fuel pressure gauge would be helpful here. Since you have to choke the carburetors to get the engine to run when you increase RPMs, that indicates that your mixture is lean. Add to that the fact that your engine loads up at idle with the choke on, and I would guess that you have an issue with fuel flow. If you install a mechanical gauge in the line before the fuel rail, you can see if your fuel pressure drops. A drop in fuel pressure would indicate an inadequate fuel pump or an obstruction in the line.

Robin, The electrical fuel pump is in back by the tank. The mechanical is in front and mounted on the cylinder head. If the European 260Zs are close enough to the North American 260Z, you should download the 74 factory service manual from XenonS30 and read through the fuel system pages. The fuel filter is near the electric fuel pump, but there also could be a screen filter before the fuel pump, and there should also be screens at the carburetors if I remember correctly. Anyway, if the filters are working correctly, the fuel pumps should not have sludge. As for operation, the power to the electric fuel pump is interrupted by a relay when starting the car. I have attached a simplified drawing of the circuit. The mechanical pump is operated by the camshaft.

Hold on. That's a 50 degree differential. You're not going to get much better than that without a bigger evaporator and blower motor.

Download the 72 FSM. The Haynes manual can be too generic on issues such as wiring. As for the cost of a manual, $35 is reasonable. It's not like there are a bunch floating around.

Search on eBay for an owners manual. They pop up from time to time. Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) can be downloaded at the link in my signature.

Phil, While I'm thinking about it, keep in mind that if you put in an internally regulated alternator, this won't work (unless you install a high power diode). A lot of us found this out when we put in internally regulated alternators because the batteries would run down due to the fuel pump relay being constantly energized. I found the connector that was responsible for that and took it out. My battery stopped draining after that. For anybody who is curious, I recreated the drawing in the FSM since the scanned copy is on the light side.

Phil, Look at the EF section of the 74 FSM, in particular pages EF-7 and EF-8. I think it's a great way of wiring the fuel pump in a car with an externally regulated alternator.

Rob, the OP installed a replacement fusebox from Motorsport Auto. That's why he has the newer style fuses. The issue that you have is a short to ground. It could be at the switch or in the wiring nearby. If I were to speculate, at first it wasn't a very solid contact. As the current flowed through the circuit to ground, the switch or a wire nearby started to heat up. (Think of the inside of a toaster.) Insulation melted/burned causing the smoke you saw, exposing more of the component to the ground fault. The increased contact with ground increased the current flow to the point that the fuse finally blew. If it was a door switch, replace it. If it was the switch on the dome light, replace the dome light. Be sure to inspect the wiring near the dome light or door switch for damage. If it is the door switch, verify good wiring by doing the following. 1. Remove the lightbulb from the dome light and accessory fuse. 2. With the door closed, measure resistance from the downstream side (outside) of the accessory fuse to ground (any exposed screw that goes into the body of the car will do). You should have infinite resistance. (maximum value on your meter) 3. If you have less than 1 ohm resistance, then you have a short between the fusebox and the switch to include the switch. Unplug all wires from the switch and try again. a. Be sure to mark wires to put them back the same. b. Be sure to look for any burn marks around those wires or on the body. That's another sign of a short. Someone could have left part of the connector exposed when plugging in the switch, allowing for the exposed part to touch the body. If you have infinite resistance, the switch is bad. If you still have less than 1 ohm, you have a short in the wire. 4. If you still haven't found a short, with all of the wires unplugged from the switch, test each wire on the switch to ground. 5. If you have ruled out the switch, test all of the dash harness side wires for the switch to ground. Be sure to go to the XenonS30 site and find the supplement for the 1971 FSM. It will have a lot of information on the wiring. Get to work and let us know your results.

My bad. I didn't read your quote closely enough. Have you tried contacting the Connecticut to see if they can pass on a message to Bob Sharp? You never know. He might be aware of where some are squirrelled away.

Are they in your car and yelling at you, or are the following behind you? Do you feel a vibration or hear anything? Have you tried having a friend drive your car while you follow behind to see what's going on?

While the 71 FSM isn't readily available, it would be in your best interest to download the 72 FSM and read the BR section. Here's a picture from the FSM that will answer your last question.

1. Download the FSM for the 72. 2. Read the EE section. In the first few pages, you'll see how the different harnesses connect. 3. Match the wire colors & connector types. 4. Go to town reconnecting everything.

Did you try Rockauto? They had three different suppliers for the Master Cylinder listed.

Hopefully you didn't compromise a cooling passage, too. Keep an eye on your oil and water to make sure they didn't try to mix. Also look at the spark plugs to make sure they don't show signs of problems.

Contact your local DMV office to find out.