SteveJ

Les Canaday lists them on his site.

I got them at the link I posted for a little over $12 and that included shipping.

For the US market, the mounts are different. I wouldn't be surprised if the Canadian market cars received the same mounts as the US cars. I know that MSA has carbon fiber replacement bumpers for the 240Zs and says that 73s require additional work. I suggest doing a search with words like bumper mount conversion 240Z.

Did you take the first set of readings with the voltmeter or your gauge (I trust a voltmeter reading more.)? Also, have you checked the accuracy of your tachometer? Those factors can influence your results. If you look at the EE section of the FSM from EE-11 to EE-23, there is a very good description of testing the electrical system and what the results should be. It even has a troubleshooting guide. If your measuring techniques are good, I would say you're a little high on the voltage. However, if you notice in the FSM, there are temperature variances for the acceptable range. The procedures the FSM has for adjusting the regulator are for a stock regulator. They won't work on a solid state regulator.

Bob, your link to the pictures was truncated.

I found the Ford retainers on eBay. I figured it was worth it to try. I'll update when I get them.

So, this is the tricky part. You need to figure out if you have a bad voltage regulator or if you have an internally regulated alternator and didn't know it. If you can rig up jumpers like the tech tip for converting to an internally regulated alternator, that can give you a quick answer. You can find details in Blue's tech tips. (Does anybody else find it ironic that Phil/Blue doesn't have a signature link to the tech tips collection? ) If the voltage behaves with the jumpers, you know that's the issue. If not, you can start suspecting the voltage regulator. Don't forget to review the FSM for more info on diagnosing this circuit. Look in the EE section.

It's probably my fault. I noticed that when I won a NISMO license plate frame at the opening, the girl wouldn't come any closer than arm's length to me. (Perhaps my wife shot the girl an evil eye, though my wife denies doing such.) The girls had no problems going up to the other prize winners that night. I must have traumatized them so that they didn't want to come back for the show.

Sometimes you just have to drop by his shop. If you can't make it on a weekday, sometimes someone is working at the shop on a Saturday. If that's the case, try early afternoon.

Dang, I forgot about loss of sensing.

There are several possible issues: 1. The gauge is not accurate. Measure with a multimeter at the battery. 2. Bad voltage regulator 3. You got the wrong ammeter and installed one that is internally regulated.

If his phone isn't working, send me a PM with your phone number, and I'll get him the info.

You might try going over to Eddie's shop and seeing if you can buy a carb from him to get you running.

Then you're probably not living too far away from Jamie, aka KAL7467. He's working on a 71 of similar vintage to yours. You might want to drop him a PM. You might want to make sure you have oil in your carbs. Don't be afraid to take off the dome and inspect the carb closely. Read the FSM on carbs. The 72 will work for that. Hopefully that will guide you to get it working.

Welcome. Consider dropping by the meetings for the Georgia Z Club. You can get the details at the link below. Eddie Radatz owns a shop that specializes in S30, S130 & Z31s, and he is a regular at the meetings. As for what to do first, I suggest taking care of the safety items: brakes, tires, body inspection for rust, etc. That way you can determine if you want to drive it or do a tear down & restore. If you want to fix it up, I suggest that you determine what you want the car to be when you finish. After that, figure out the work and parts to get there. Follow that with making a budget and comparing that to the first two. Adjust your goals if necessary. Then get the parts and start working.

I was wanting to get out there. However when they said that if you came to watch, you'd be at the track for a while, I changed my mind. It was just too dang hot out there.

Rob, FYI, the FSM for the 76 has the proper bulb types. You might have to cross-reference them online to get the modern numbers. Superbrightleds.com actually has a pretty good cross-reference.

Guy and I put pics and links in this thread.

Here are a couple of links for possible insulation sources: http://www.amazon.com/Corvette-Natural-Protector-Insulating-Sleeve/dp/B003FCSKBQ/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1311518219&sr=1-10 http://www.amazon.com/Natural-Protector-Insulating-Sleeve-Spark/dp/B003FBNL8O/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1311518219&sr=1-11 I haven't measured the lengths of fuel line, but they might work, especially if they are wrapped in reflective tape.

That's why I took a bunch of pictures Thursday night.

Guy, Try Flickr or Photobucket.

Actually, with the test you ran, the needle should have probably gone to Full. If you wanted to test the movement, you could use 2 latern batteries in series to power the gauge, connect the positive to the green, the negative to black and wire a potentiometer to the yellow with the other side going to the battery negative. Then you can alter the resistance of the potentiometer and watch for movement on the gauge.

Wire colors and pictures would help, too.

Well, quite a few people have been departing today. The only events for today are the autocross and the "To Go Cup" party at Hooters. I got to see some people I haven't seen in years, including Mad Mike and a few people from the Z Car Club of NOVA. I also got to meet some great people like Guy Miller and Bill Moreau. Considering the temperatures this week, it was fantastic to have an indoor car show. My primary goal for attending the convention has been accomplished. The boss is the closest she has ever been to catching Z fever. She was even eyeing a Z32 2+2 that someone was selling. The great thing is that she understands why I want to take those two old cars sitting out in the garage and try to turn back the clock a little bit. I don't know if the finances will allow us to visit Phoenix or San Diego in 2012 or 2013, but you never know. If you can swing it, I recommend going to a ZCON even if you can only make it once.

I was playing with the fuel gauge in my car recently. I determined it was time to replace it, though. Fortunately for me, Dave Irwin, aka Zs-ondabrain, was very generous and sent me his old gauge that functioned perfectly. Anyway, from my analysis during troubleshooting the old gauge, here is how I think it works: 1. Voltage comes in to the right side of the gauge (as you're facing it). It goes through the windings and splits in two. One path goes back to ground, and the other path goes through the windings on the left side of the gauge. Thus acting like a voltage divider. 2. From the left side of the gauge, the circuit goes out the yellow wire and back to the sender. The sender is just a resistor that affects the current flow through the gauge. 3. The electromagnets formed by the windings will pull the two parts of the gauge toward each other. Since the right side is fixed and the les, ft is not, the left windings move toward the right windings and allow the needle to move. (While you may know this already, I thought it might help others who have trouble with their fuel gauges.) You should have had good deflection on the gauge with the 9V battery provided the battery was at its full charge. While you might have issues with corrosion elsewhere in the circuit, my partially educated guess is that your fuel gauge is ready to be refurbished. Possible sources for gauges include 1. Asking here if someone has a spare gauge. The core membership here is made up of a great bunch of guys. 2. Contact Zspecialties. They are in Washington state and are very reputable.