SteveJ

You could also try Roger at ZBarn.

Rob, I think this thread might help you with the diagnostics on the turn signal. Look at the posts that were made in the last week in the thread.

You won't find many uncracked replacement dashes. Expect to pay North of $2G if you do find a good one. If you want to pay that price, search this site for "dash in a box". I think Eddie Radatz still has one. It won't be completely correct for a 73, but it will be close.

Read up on relays for the headlights. Between myself and Dave Irwin, you can find lots of information on the headlight circuit. As for the turn signal, check to see if it lights up with the hazard switch. That will give you some idea of where the problem is. Just follow the wiring diagrams in the FSM.

If you have it going clockwise, that could be your problem.

Unfortunately, that topic comes up fairly often. I was lucky that when my hood release cable broke, it was just after the latch released. I did a jury rig fix with some braided cable until I got another proper cable.

How about the firing order? Did you remember that it's counter clockwise? What is your static timing set to?

Back in 2008 I was checking out a 74 for sale that wouldn't run. I messed around with it a little bit and eventually found that the current from the coil erroded the plastic on the cap where the coil wires attaches. I got a new cap and new plugs and got the car running. I bought the car, too.

Check the connections of the wires on the cap and check the condition of the contacts in the cap and the rotor. For the latter two, you're interested in carbon build-up or wear. Did you ever check your fuel pressure? You could have multiple problems combining.

First, a suggestion: download the 1971 Chassis Supplement from XenonS30, unless you already have a copy of the 70 FSM. The wiring is close enough for me to piece things together. The blue wire is identitified in Fig VI-1 as the Blower Motor Power Source (#34). I assume the black wire is the ground, seeing that it has a ring lug on it. It probably mounts to the motor housing. It would help if you would identify the wire colors of all the wires on the connectors. That way they can be better matched to the descriptions in the supplement.

I bet surgery could fix the issue with the legs. It might even fix the issue with the head, but you'd have to put up with people pointing at you can calling you flathead.

1. Are you sure your front turn signals are flashing? 2. Are you sure the wiring is as stock? In the stock wiring, for the left turn signal, a White wire is the 12VDC+. The contacts connect that wire with a Green/Red wire (front left turn signal) and a White/Red wire (rear left turn signal). The Green/Red wire also goes to the bulb in the instrument panel. The right side has Green/Black (front) and White/Black (rear) The hazard lights use the same wires to go out to the lights. My guess is that your front signals may not be working. If that is the case, it's probably the wiring in the steering column.

Rock Auto pulled it right up.

Matt, look here. Actually, I would be kind of surprised if Les was interested in sourcing parts for the 73. It's almost as much of a redheaded step-child as the 260Z. Maybe that's why I have both.

The plates the in battery can become coated with lead sulfate, especially if the battery drains. So while the battery has 12 VDC potential, the plates are not exposed enough for electrons to flow. That limits current. A way to measure this is to measure voltage at the battery after putting the key in the run position. (Notice that I didn't say, "start".) If the voltage at the battery drops significantly with no accessories going, it is gone. If you still have 12 VDC at the battery, then measure the voltage while having someone hit the starter. If the voltage at the battery drops below about 9 VDC or so, it is not strong enough to engage the solenoid or starter. If the battery still has good voltage, measure voltage at the solenoid and coil like I said in the first post. I know you have a Harbor Freight nearby, so it should be no problem for you to get a cheap multimeter. As I mentioned in the previous reply, hacked wiring is usually a way of fixing a problem properly. Don't be surprised if other electrical gremlins appear. By the way, I have family in Huntsville, so I get out that way from time-to-time.

The click you heard was the accessory relay. That is normal. Things to check: 1. Fusible link 2. Wiring in the steering column. Unfortunately, the wiring has been hacked, as you noted. Who knows what was wrong before someone attacked the wiring with diagonal cutters? The voltage regulator would not keep the car from starting. Don't worry about it right now. Download the 1971 Chasis Supplement from Xenons30. It has the wiring diagram. The link is below. Using a positive to negative convention for the circuit: When you go to start your car, 12 VDC+ goes from the White/Red wire to the ignition switch. It goes out the Black/Yellow wire to the inhibtor switch (no function in the manual) and on to the solenoid. The switch also completes the contact for the Green/Blue wire. This wire joins the Green/White wire to provide 12VDC+ to the coil during starting. (This bypasses the ballast resistor.) If you don't have 12VDC at the coil and at the solenoid, the car won't start. Where in North Alabama are you? Send me a PM if you're not comfortable answering in an open forum.

The BD kit does have some glaring shortcomings since it is generic, and the relays are not standard relays. The there also aren't inline fuses, so those should be added. I bought the kit and proceded to replace most of it. The only good thing about it for you would be the fact that it has separate positives for high and low beam with the ground being common, so it would have worked in that respect for you LED headlights.

Given the other history you've provided, start searching for damage to the red wire coming out of the switch and going to the fuse box. Look carefully for damaged/burned connectors.

When you say you're not getting power to the harness for the headlights, what do you mean? The 12VDC+ for the headlights is the infamous White/Red wire. It goes into the switch on the right, and comes out through the Red wire when the headlights are in the #2 position. The Red wire travels to the fusebox and splits into the left and right fuses, coming out Red/Yellow and Red respectively. The 12VDC+ travels to the common pin for the headlights. Two wires come out of each headlight. One wire is Red/Black. The other wire is Red/White. The two Red/Black wires join as do the two Red/White wires. The wires then go back to the combo switch on the turn stalk. If the switch is in the low beam setting, the Red/Black wire will be connected to ground via the Black wire. If the switch is in the high beam setting, the Red/White wire will be connected to ground via the Black wire. Get out the wiring diagram & multimeter, and start digging. If you get stuck, post a message describing where you got stuck. Don't be stingy on the details, either.

Ben, you're trying to install led headlights in a 33 year old car. Don't you think that draws some notice? I don't have pictures of Dave's relay design installed, but I do know that a lot of people are happy to have them.

The White/Red wire is the main 12VDC that goes into the ignition switch and out to the key-controlled circuits. The fact that it has been hacked it disconcerting. Are there signs of circuits having shorted out in the past in your wiring harness? IPOs (idiot previous owners) are especially dangerous when it comes to electrical wiring. I'm sorting through some of that now with my 74. Anyway, it sounds like you're getting yourself on the right track. Make sure the wires are correct. Then you can test components.

Okay, what wires were missing? How did you discover they were missing? Did the car run before you replaced these wires? Were you referring to the wiring diagram in the FSM to replace them? How did you replace them?

If your engine is not solidly grounded to the chasis, you could have problems with the spark, but that's off the high side of the coil. But for the negative probe, were you touching the chasis, the engine, the other side of the resistor? Common electrical problems for S30s include Bad fusible links Bad fuses Damaged/Corroded connectors Connectors that came undone during repairs Damaged wires Bad relays/electronics Poor connection to ground. With the multiple problems you described, I would think bad fusible links or disconnected/bad connectors. Sometimes you have to start at one end of the circuit (positive or negative battery post) and work through the wiring diagram to get to the other end of the circuit. At least the wires are color coded.

1. What ground wire are you referring to? 2. Put the year of your car in your posts. Not everybody knows you have a 76. Different year cars are wired differently. 3. Where were you touching your leads to when you measured 1.5 VDC around your ballast resistor. (Pictures don't hurt, especially when you add arrows to point to things.) 4. Did you check your fusible links? DO NOT rely on visual inspections. Remove them and test resistance/continuity. 5. Did you take voltage readings at the fusebox? What were the results? 6. Are you sure you used the proper rated fuses? Are you sure the fuses are still good?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7314