SteveJ

Roll the dice and take your chances. The level of knowledge varies from individual to individual. Use the search engine here. There's a lot of good information in the forums. It just takes time to search and read. For the best answers: 1. Describe the problem thoroughly. When did it start? What symptoms did you notice? When does it happen? 2. Describe one problem per post. Don't combine a mechanical problem with an electrical problem. 3. Post the problems in the appropriate forum. 4. Make sure you have looked in that forum for a similar problem. Many of us have been here for quite a while, so we may not want to answer the same question for the 3rd, 4th, or 10th time. 5. Don't hijack threads. Make sure you are asking relevent questions when you add to a thread. Speed of responses depends upon time of day, accuracy of description, and sometimes even your attitude. The more you appreciate the advice, the more advice (and faster) you'll receive. Welcome.

I believe the Minis of that vintage are being looked at for a recall.

I'm hoping to go to the convention. I have reservations & registrations for me and She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed.

Definitely great work in digging into the system. It helps to have good diagnostics tools, too.

It's a 31mm festoon bulb. The old part number is DE3175. It's the same bulb as for the dome lamp. For a replacement, you might consider a 3022-W9 or 3022-CWHP4 bulb from Superbrightleds.com. Swapping to LED bulbs will drop the current draw on your wiring dramatically. I've measured it. Search for my previous posts on LED lights. IMHO the extra paid for LED bulbs beats the time and effort fixing burned up wiring. Also, if you replace the parking lights with LEDs, it will take longer to drain your battery should you accidentally leave them on. Steve

Tony, try contacting Z Barn to see if Roger can supply a used cable for you. A long shot would be to look up a choke cable in the parts fiche link below and see if Nissan has any more. Considering I haven't purchased a choke cable for a 73 from a Nissan dealer, it's a pretty long shot. Z Car Source might have one, but expect to pay more than from Z Barn. While Z Car Source is pricey, they have good service and good quality parts IMHO.

Make sure you ordered an alternator with an internal voltage regulator (78-83). Sometimes the parts stores get it wrong.

First, download a copy of the FSM. You'll find it in the links below. Second, look through the engine electrical section. It goes over how to diagnose the charging system. Now, having said that, 11.46 volts is too low. Was the engine at idle? What is the voltage at 2000 RPM or higher? (Again, look at the FSM for the specs.) As for the fusible links, they are available at Courtesy Nissan. Some people like replacing them with maxifuses, but I haven't found satisfactory answers as to the true ratings of the fusible links, so I'm not sure what maxifuses would be appropriate. It's not a bad idea to replace links and clean the terminals with something like Caig deoxit. (You can find it at Radio Shack or from lots of online vendors.)

Decals are also available from Banzai Motorworks. Believe me, Mike is a stickler for details.

You should consider bookmarking the parts fiche in my signature links. According to that, there is only 1 fuel tank for the 240Zs.

I have photos from the Mitty at Road Atlanta posted on my Facebook page open for anybody to look at. You can find my Facebook page via posts I've made on the ClassicZCars Facebook page.

There is a little retaining clip. One of the common window crank tools will pop it off. Otherwise you could use a small pick hook to grab the loop end and pull it out. Once the clip is off, the handle pulls loose easily.

If you shop around a little bit, you'll find the 240Z horn pad is not that expensive.

Shhh, one must not mention the name of the FSM for fear of its wrath. Now you don't have to spoonfeed him. A little research is excellent for the brain. As for attaching pictures, Find the paperclip. It will allow you to manage attachments.

I believe he put the year in when he edited his post.

It is a tome of virtually boundless knowledge. It contains the collective wisdom of the creators. Possession of one is of upmost importance in the quest for a properly running Z car. Also, when all else fails, try acronym finder.

Just keep in mind that exempt applies to testing. You technically must have all required smog equipment on the car in functional order. You can also be subject to random roadside tests. If you don't have equipment or the emissions are too high, guess what? You'll be testing again, and again, and again.

Two suggestions: 1. Either create a signature with the year of your car or write the year of your car in your posts. That will get you better help. 2. Get a copy of the FSM and/or wiring diagram. Check the links to Blue's site and to Xenons. According to your profile you have a 72. I think someone posted a color wiring diagram within the last couple of months for a 72.

Use car dollys or get some used tires until you can put new tires on. That way the poor SOB replacing the tires won't have to deal with all sorts of crap when he unmounts the rotten tires currently on the car. The downside of the dollies is that you won't have brakes. Of course, you could compromise, putting dollies on one end and used or new tires on the other end. That way you would still have brakes on either the front or back.

One of the constraints would be to find enough bodies that were in good enough shape for the program that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg to procure. While the program was never designed to make money, reducing the available pool of cars would drive up the program costs significantly.

Brad, feel free to remove the chip from your shoulder. You asked some vague questions that require some clarification to give meaningful answers. The key to your cooling will be how much air you can get through the evaporator and out through the registers. Carl Beck posted his experiences getting adequate A/C in Florida. Search the word evaporator. Also, I got a lot out of the book "How to Air Condition Your Car". If you want to read that book, buy a used copy. Amazon lists it for $50 new. It's not worth that much. There is another A/C book for hot rods listed for about $20. That would be much more reasonable.

I'm not sure what you mean by a "factory" kit since there was never factory air for the 73. I'm not sure what you've read here, either, since there are threads that talk about what you're asking with regards to Vintage Air. As far as the Honda blower what questions do you have that haven't been answered in the long thread?

Did you notice that you commented on a thread that is almost 8 years old? Welcome, and I hope you're enjoying your vintage Z.

Play in the differential - Check U-joints. Check all of the bolts for the U-joints. If the play is inside, drain the oil and search for metal.

Did you have your emergency brake lever pulled up? If so, the shoes are stuck to the drum. Search for that to find solutions.